Thread: L.S Barker Buzzer

Nice to see them knicker blades thanks.

Yeah Ive sharpened ends and set them up but Ive never liked rebating on a buzzer much.
I mostly do them on the table saw with two cuts. I like the support the table saw gives the rest of the board.
Its not a common thing for me to need to do .
The backs of traditional cabinet sides are where I do them mostly. To take a back for the cabinet.

That is the same knicker set up.
This is the Barker from USYD
Theres a better pic on one of Peter McBrides posts on Barker.
It has an Oz made Surety type guard.
I was using it as a marking off table whilst using the height gauge on the pattern.
This is one of the freebie machines I scored a while back but have since moved it on.
H.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

Hey Charlie that is another good option to consider. I could even up the HP to 4 if I wanted to, or would it be wiser to just stick to the original motor specs as much as possible?

I think the RPM is most important. The horse power up or down comes secondary. BUT more power is always good!

By the way if everyone could stop talking about my knickers that would be greatly appreciated

Originally Posted by clear out

That is the same knicker set up.
This is the Barker from USYD
Theres a better pic on one of Peter McBrides posts on Barker.
It has an Oz made Surety type guard.
I was using it as a marking off table whilst using the height gauge on the pattern.
This is one of the freebie machines I scored a while back but have since moved it on.
H.

oh that one looks nice, I really like that guard mine is a pretty clunky pork chop, do you have any information on that guard or if there is anything available in something similar?

Ok so I'd like to make sure I'm informed before going down the path of replacing the motor. The rpm of my motor is 2850 so I have found a 4hp single phase motor with a rpm of 2800, I guess thats good enough. Do I need to get the pulley (correct term?) off the shaft of the current motor and onto the shaft of the new motor. If yes how can I be sure it'll fit on the new shaft? If it doesn't then I will just have to try and source a new pulley with the same length and diameter I suppose. If I have to get the pulley off the shaft and onto the new one, what would I need to do to make that happen? what equipment would I need?

Also while I have the machine in bits Im considering swapping the head to a spiral...I have had a 3 knife cutter since I started out a few years ago and it has been fine, the results are nice when it is sharp but it hasn't lasted that long versing some of our hardwoods and then it gets loud and chatters abut and it is kind of annoying to set the blades each time. One of my main considerations is the noise, since my personal (shared with my old man) workshop is on my folks block in a quiet residential leafy suburb. My injuries are coming along but most of the generic ones are 100mm diameter heads and this one is 125mm plus the shaft sizes area bit unusual so id likely end up getting it made. At work we've used a good tool maker for spindle moulder knives and recently they made spiral heads for the ECA which are pretty nice. Its crown tools in St Marys, so I might try them and see the price, it will be considerable

I have no experience whatsoever with replacing cutter heads. I wouldn't even know the correct way to pull the thing apart! The bearings seemed ok, should I think about replacing them at this point, is it a massive pain and what is likely the ball park cost? Or is that something I should get someone else to do if it needed doing??

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

...I really like that guard mine is a pretty clunky pork chop, do you have any information on that guard...

Clear Out describes that guard as a Surty type guard. Surty are/were in the States - but JT Peat Pty Ltd of Sydney made a them - or an almost identical guard. And that one is almost certainly one of JT Peats "Ideal" jobbies.

jointer_guard.jpg

Here's one on my Wadkin 9" RB buzzer (RB 116 of 1926).

RB 121.jpg Before overhaul (which still isn't complete ).

And an identical buzzer in Christchurch (RB 113 also of 1926).

RB53.jpg In regular use in a museum workshop.

I don't know if Surty or JT Peat still exist.

Cheers, Vann.

Ahh thanks Vann, are you using the RB?? how does the guard go?

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

Ok so I'd like to make sure I'm informed before going down the path of replacing the motor. The rpm of my motor is 2850 so I have found a 4hp single phase motor with a rpm of 2800, I guess thats good enough...

Yes.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

...Do I need to get the pulley (correct term?) off the shaft of the current motor and onto the shaft of the new motor. If yes how can I be sure it'll fit on the new shaft?...

Yes (I'd call it a Flat Belt Pulley) - if the shafts are the same diameters and the keyways the same width.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

...If it doesn't then I will just have to try and source a new pulley with the same length and diameter I suppose...

And the same crowned profile.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

...If I have to get the pulley off the shaft and onto the new one, what would I need to do to make that happen? what equipment would I need?...

You'll need to get that nut off the end to see what's next. I'd say you'll end up needing access to a press or loan of a gear puller.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

Also while I have the machine in bits Im considering swapping the head to a spiral...I have had a 3 knife cutter since I started out a few years ago and it has been fine, the results are nice when it is sharp but it hasn't lasted that long versing some of our hardwoods and then it gets loud and chatters abut and it is kind of annoying to set the blades each time. One of my main considerations is the noise, since my personal (shared with my old man) workshop is on my folks block in a quiet residential leafy suburb.

Spiral will make a noise problem quieter. The changing of blades when they get dull though . Have you tried sharpening blades on the machine ? I do this and keep a set going for a long long time before I change a set . Just using either diamond plate or a cheap 6" oil stone . You have to watch out for your fingers and develop a safe method .

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

My injuries are coming along but most of the generic ones are 100mm diameter heads and this one is 125mm plus the shaft sizes area bit unusual so id likely end up getting it made.

Whats that mean ? Is you injured already ?

Re the guards Surty or Peat whatever

Heres a few pics below of the original US Surty and the Oz ohs guff from a few years back.
Plus my homemade yellow armed version with the Aluminium cutter guard on my late 9” Bursgreen jointer.
Ive made about 3 of these over the years and still have most of the bits in the stash for one.

When I get out to the Titanic tomorrow I’ll move a few lifeboats and see what I can find.
Im supposedly off to Taren point on Wednesday if it’s not raining, are you in Caringbah?
H.

In case you’re wondering why I’m so interested in jointer guards that work.
H.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

Ahh thanks Vann, are you using the RB??...

Originally Posted by Vann

...Here's one on my Wadkin 9" RB buzzer (RB 116 of 1926).

Before overhaul (which still isn't complete )...

Nope.

Originally Posted by nicaboo799

...how does the guard go?

It's many a year since I used one (40 years?) but I think I prefer the original English type (bridge guard?) to either the pork chop or Surty/Peat, as I prefer to not use the timber to push the guard clear. It does take more discipline though - as you have to manual adjust the guard for each shape of timber.

But I'll be leaving that Peat "Ideal" guard on my little buzzer when I complete it - until I decide just how I feel about it in use.

Where I did my apprenticeship (railway workshops), back in the 1970s, all the buzzers had "Ideal" guards. Someone must have had a significant accident for them to go to the expense of replacing all the guards with "Ideal" guards (there must have been 60 or more throughout the railway system).

Cheers, Vann.