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Thread: Box for Dies
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3rd November 2016, 02:09 PM #16
I got a call from Flecter Steel late this morning - my length of tube had arrived.
"Great" I thought. I'll go get it, and cut a thread to see how it goes (with work-in-progress photos of course).
I paid, and the guy was manuoevring the length onto the cutting bench. My eyes aren't real bad, but they're not as sharp as they used to be (it's my 61st today). Fortunately I noticed something amiss before he made the cut. "Is that square tube?" I asked.
So I'll have to go back on Monday...
At least it was their mistake, not mine.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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3rd November 2016 02:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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3rd November 2016, 02:33 PM #17
The best ideas come from the need.
Great going on keeping these parts together and not as draw rattles.
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16th November 2016, 02:20 PM #18
First Thread Cut
I finally got around to playing with the dies today.
The tube I ordered measures 15.85mm OD.
On a test piece I tried creeping up on the right size, taking four cuts before it was down to a size that would take a nut. But even then the tube kept turning in the vise (I had it clamped between two pine blocks). I don't know if that's because the dies are blunt, or the resistance of the weld in the steel, or maybe it normally takes a lot of torque to cut such a fine thread?
aCond1.jpg aCond2.jpg
I may have to invest in a pipe vise.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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16th November 2016, 02:47 PM #19Senior Member
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That thread looks good!
One way to address the problem of thin walled tube slipping is to cut one shallow partial thread, put a nut or coupler on there, and place the hex of that in the vice (or just use a large spanner) whilst you thread the other end. Then spin it around and repeat.
A 16mm, 5/8" thread will take quite some torque to produce. I'm not sure whether the fineness of the pitch makes any difference. Does it feel notchy as the die cutting edges pass the weld?
Graham.
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16th November 2016, 09:27 PM #20
Vann do you have any Treflex or similar cutting/threading lubricant.
I have a tobacco tin of Treflex which my Dad had,it must be 80 years old if it's a day.
I have scored some steel flexible conduit if you want it.
It is about 1metre long by 1/2" OD and 9.6mm ID.
An odd threaded connector has turned up also, it's 3/4" ID any good to you?
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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16th November 2016, 09:41 PM #21
Definitely need some cutting fluid. Treflex is great stuff.
You need a chain vice to hold the tube. I still have the one I made in the apprentice annex at the SECV workshops 36 years ago.
36 years ago...I need a lie down.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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17th November 2016, 04:08 PM #22
Hi Graham. I didn't notice any "notchy" feeling. But then, with 4 cutters, there would have been one cutter near the weld at all times.
Originally Posted by clear out
I was taught to use tallow as a lubricant for thread cutting. I have a small container of tallow, that must be over 40 years old, that I use the lubricate woodscrews. Unfortunately, if I restrict my use to woodscrews it should just last me until I'm in my wheelchair - so none surplus for thread cutting . I used medium machine oil while cutting that thread - I need to get something better.
Originally Posted by clear out
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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17th November 2016, 04:41 PM #23
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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17th November 2016, 07:13 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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17th November 2016, 07:54 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Trefolex is locally made / distributed by CNC in Aus / NZ.
You should find it in any of your local automotive stores.
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