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  1. #31
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    These collections of old machinery have one thing in common and that is that they have some serious weight with them. Just to remove/refit a motor is not easy when working with a boat anchor that is around 100 kg. I fitted a length of 175 mm RSJ into the apex of my shed for just these operations. For the expense and the effort to get it up there is all forgotten about when the first machine arrives

    This is a picture of the panel saw but I can't find a pic of it dangling off the endless chain a metre off the ground. This little guy as around 1 tonne, but easily handled with the endless chain and RSJ

    AHha I have found a couple of pics. The addition of the Acrow prop is just insurance that the shed will still be standing when I have taken up the weight. (I am not sure it was necessary, but I had there so I used it)
    Once on the hard floor I use 16 mm rod or 38 mm pipe and with a pinch bar/crow bar its an easy job to scoot what ever across the floor to its resting place
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    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    The sexy gold bling is easy, simply take some paper towel and shape it into a rubber the same way you would if you were french polishing and dab it into the gold paint, wipe the excess, and then dab over the raised letters, the rubber being flat will find the high spots and hi-light them.

    Melbourne Matty.
    Yep that's one on my to try list. Someone pointed out that technique to me after I took a far more tedious approach on my Stenners badge. I think the results show it is a good technique.

    cheers,

    Camo

  4. #33
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    This thread is fantastic. And well done.

    Just out of curiosity, and being a novice in this regard, how much would an old thicknesser similar to this cost prior to any renovating?

    It may be a more suitable option vs a new carbatec/hafco etc.

  5. #34
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    Dec 2010
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    Melbourne, Australia.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    This thread is fantastic. And well done.

    Just out of curiosity, and being a novice in this regard, how much would an old thicknesser similar to this cost prior to any renovating?

    It may be a more suitable option vs a new carbatec/hafco etc.
    Cava, thats a how long is this bit of string question, lol, sorry mate, there are just so many variables, I'll do my best !
    A second hand older thicknesser can sell for between $200 and $2000 it depends on Condition, sellers knowledge, sellers pricing, age of the machine, access to the machine for removal, ie second floor of a building, "buyer to remove" and much more ...
    As you ask, yes take mine for instance, it has cost $200 to purchase, a day to recover petrol, trailer and heavy lifting equipment, and so far I have spent another $150 on sandpaper, paint, wire brushes, kerosene and miscellaneous bits, oh and a tin of gold paint..
    The worse bit is its not over by a long haul, the small repairs and missing parts will cost may be another $300 at least may be more.
    I don't mean to put you of, I would encourage any one to have a go at this, the rewards are huge, the machine when done will be as good as if not better than any Hafco/carbetec machine, but it is not for the faint hearted, you will need a little metal work and mechanical skills in your blood to boot.

    Hope this helps as it is a fair question !

    Melbourne Matty.

  6. #35
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    Appreciate the response Matty. Guess I will just have to buy yours when it is complete.

  7. #36
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    Some great stuff there Matty, not sure if you have seen some of the stuff I've picked up.




    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    Guess I will just have to buy yours when it is complete.
    Cava,

    I realise your reply is in humour, and Matty's assessment of what is required is spot on, but having read Matty's assessment of what was required on this machine,

    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Cam with this machine, there's a few things that would of put folk off, the broken slide ways, missing rise and fall handle (it had one but it was jerry rigged) Motors have to be remounted, and lots of annoying little things, this one is not for the faint hearted Cam.
    It is clear this is not as I said:

    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    It's a good example for new comers of the fact that when your looking for an old machine, a little bit of rust should not be too off putting
    I even went back and added a note to my initial statement.

    I hope Matty wont mind me taking the post a little further of the rails, but I want to give a bit of a rundown as to why I think it is a great idea to consider buying and fixing an old machine over buying a new machine.

    I have bought and fixed a few older machines now, but I certainly also have a fair amount of modern stuff in my workshop. My take on it, is assess your needs based on each machine. I started buying old stuff because I found myself trying to modify the brand new machine I just bought, so it would do the job it was supposed to be made for (inaccurate or poorly machined parts). This is not because you can't buy high quality new machines, it's just you can't buy them in the budget that I have to spend. Look on the net and you will find many posts of people saying "take a straight edge with you when you are buying a new......, and if it is a good example, insist you want the display machine" (this is what I am talking about, inconsistency in production). I buy an older machine over a new machine, if the older machine has something to offer that the new machine doesn't (not every old machine is better than a new machine). It's not like the modern world invented making cheap machinery, there has always been poor quality stuff, but I think time has a great ability of weeding out the crap (if it lasts 50 years and is still running, that's possibly a sign with a bit of TLC it could last another 50).

    Unfortunately you need to have some abilities, or be willing to learn, it's probably not going to be plug and play. The advantage with forums like this is that even when things appear quiet, if you start a restoration, and document it as you go, and ask questions when needed, you will soon find lots of helpful and knowledgeable people ready to help, lets face it, without the forums I don't think I would have one operating machine. I think the golden rule is, if it's not working, don't get a bigger hammer, ask a question, then get the bigger hammer, when the answers are, you need a bigger hammer.

    If you are starting out, I would recommend to read lots of restorations (there are lots), to see what generally wears on that machine so you can assess the machine you are considering purchasing. Your first machine should be a basic machine, one with few moving parts, preferably one that doesn't differ much between brands (this way you can ask anyone for help, not just someone with the same brand/model that you are trying to restore). One machine I would recommend is a bandsaw, although like I said do some reading first, there can be major issues with bandsaws, but the reason I recommend it, is they are all basically built with a very similar design, and if your patient you can pick one up for very little initial outlay (this way if it has a major issue you didn't anticipate, then you haven't lost much), and a nice heavy cast bandsaw (even a small one), when properly restored, is going to outperform anything you can buy new for the cost of purchasing and restoring it IMO.

    I have found that as you do more and more machines, often the same things need to be done, and the more confident you are at tackling the task. There will always be things that pop up that you have never encountered or know how to deal with, but again, the forum is great for that. Although you may not be able to get parts, most older machines were designed to be fixed, so generally speaking most problems are resolvable. Sometimes you may end up having to pay someone to do something, or learn how to do it yourself, that's why I don't buy old machines just based on price, or if I do, I buy them really cheap.

    So for anyone new to this, I would say jump in and have a go, if you start out with the right machine and do your research, you have very little to loose and a lot to gain. The only exception to this is anyone who lives between Sydney and Foster, all the old machines in this area are total garbage and should be avoided at all costs, if you do see one you think might be good, send me a PM, and I will buy it, just to save you from making a horrible mistake.

    Cheers,

    Camo

    P.S. If you find the perfect machine, but it is 3 phase (with say a 2HP motor), be aware the cost of Variable Frequency Drives have dropped dramatically, you may still be able to run and industrial quality machine from a domestic power supply (again, you need to do your research first, as this will not work in all cases).

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    These collections of old machinery have one thing in common and that is that they have some serious weight with them. Just to remove/refit a motor is not easy when working with a boat anchor that is around 100 kg. I fitted a length of 175 mm RSJ into the apex of my shed for just these operations.
    I hear you on the weight factor .... I have a 24" wide Wolfenden 3 phase thicknesser sitting on my trailer still because I have no way to lift it and no where to put it yet. Did not think that one out too well did I lol





    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  10. #39
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    We have been doing some lifting on and off with some sheer legs . Sion Dovey in the UK did a post on another forum doing it with a pair of timber ones , 12' long each I think . A lot of people were surprised at what he was picking up and putting down in a one man operation . So he has been copied. This is some steel ones I made lifting a roughly 750KG ?? I forget exactly, Wadkin LQ Off a trailer. It works but is still being worked on and developed , some simpler and safer ways using sheer legs have been used as well .
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  11. #40
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    similar principle to a derrick pole. Maybe I should look through my steel pile and see if there is any thing sturdy enough


    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    I hear you on the weight factor .... I have a 24" wide Wolfenden 3 phase thicknesser sitting on my trailer still because I have no way to lift it and no where to put it yet. Did not think that one out too well did I lol

    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art
    Ah!, now I know why you are having a get-together on the Australia Day weekend.

    Alan...

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Al View Post
    Ah!, now I know why you are having a get-together on the Australia Day weekend.

    Alan...
    You caught me. Hope you're coming, just the motor needs 4 people to lift it


    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    You caught me. Hope you're coming, just the motor needs 4 people to lift it
    It's a long way, and I have a crook back, but....... I would enjoy the drive. Still working out the logistics at the moment.

    Alan...

  15. #44
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    There's always room for a supervisor. I have shovels of various length, design & colour for you to lean on


    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    Appreciate the response Matty. Guess I will just have to buy yours when it is complete.
    Be careful what you wish for, some of my best friends have ended up with my restored machines, and they are very happy.

    Melbourne Matty.

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