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Thread: Dyco Superfine 12" Table Saw
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6th May 2024, 04:42 PM #1Novice
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Dyco Superfine 12" Table Saw
Hi All!
Got this table saw here in Auckland, NZ for a very good price (NZD 225.00 delivered) and I am restoring it. I am going to use this thread to document the whole process.
It seems to be complete, but a lot of parts are rusty and very very dirty, here are some pictures from the previous owner:
2110949216.jpg2110949225.jpg2111575767.jpg2110949227.jpg2110949224.jpg
And these are from me after I started disassembling it:
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This is by far the most ambitious project I have ever made, wish me luck!
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6th May 2024 04:42 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th May 2024, 04:51 PM #2Novice
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Some things that I need to figure out
Some things that I need to figure out:
- I am going to use a VFD for it, I created another thread for that in the ELECTRONICS section.
- I need to remove the arbour shaft to replace the bearings, but it doesn't move. I have removed all the the pins and bolts from the pulley, but it simply don't move... Any tips? Here are some pictures:
b80cb9eb7.jpeg100b9c8ad7eb.jpeg88f01c98ee6f.jpeg3fdc5be5ab27.jpeg
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7th May 2024, 12:09 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Judging by the broken casting looks like someone has tried to remove it previously with a rather large hammer
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7th May 2024, 01:00 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Good project! Mine was a fun - Dyco 12" Table Saw. I did replace the 3-phase motor with a single phase 240v motor. This worked well but from memory required a basic mounting plate made up to interface with the original bracket from the saw.
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8th May 2024, 02:15 PM #5Novice
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Hey Charlie! I know it! Hahaha, I even added you on LinkedIn to talk about this (sorry BTW).
To keep it cost effective I am going to use a VFD since it is hard to find a B5 flange single phase motor here in NZ for less than 300 dollars (I am going to pay 79 on the VFD at AliExpress).
It is an amazing project though, I am really enjoying the process
Cheers!
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8th May 2024, 07:35 PM #6Novice
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Update about the arbor: I did it! 😅
I bought this bearing puller and it is amazing! Really well made and relatively cheap: NZD 50.00, very heavy-duty.
bearing-puller.jpg
After I removed the shaft from the housing, I had to remove the bearing from the shaft and then a new issue arose: how to remove a stuck shaft woodruff key? In my case I kept pulling the bearing and it pushed the key out, the bearing broke though, but that's fine, since I'm replacing it.
Here is a video and some pictures:
arbor3.jpgarbor2.jpgarbor1.jpg
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10th May 2024, 11:25 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Good one you sure you got the right guy on linked in? Didn't see the request.
I did consider a VFD but the one I looked at was a bit more than a new motor and wasn't confident in setting up a VFD myself (& wasn't keen to spend the $$$ on a sparky to do it for me) - I believe they are pretty straight forward mind you, as long as you have the motor plate with all the details you just have to put in the motor specifics. There are some really cool options too like slow start up and motor braking at shutdown etc.
Where it all got a bit fuzzy for me was the Delta vs Star motor considerations BUT perhaps new VFDs get around this automatically and it doesn't mater so much?
The other consideration was the lose of power via a VFD (not sure if this is still the case), was told to expect a lose of ¼ of the HP of the motor using a VFD. Probably not that big a deal if you have a 3HP motor mind you.
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17th May 2024, 05:24 PM #8Novice
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Hi Charlie, yes they can be expensive to buy in AU/NZ but I found some cheaper options at AliExpress, only have to wait more. That is the only thing missing how, everything else has arrived and I am working on it everyday, little by little. The paint removal and the preparation for the new paint are the most time consuming tasks, especially because I am using a chemical paint stripper, if I had access to a sandblaster, my life would muche easier lol.
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17th May 2024, 05:35 PM #9Novice
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Some progress
I have been working hard on this project, it takes a lot of time and effort to bring everything to bare metal, prepare, repaint, etc. But I am getting there.
This are all the parts of the saw, disassembled:
all-parts-1.jpegall-parts-2.jpeg
I have also started the painting preparation. For that I had to buy a paint stripper and use a lot of elbow grease to make it okay.
paint-removal-1.jpegpaint-removal-2.jpeg
An important note regarding this paint stripper: it is really dangerous, it is forbidden in some countries because it contains methylene chloride, seriously, this thing melts the gloves you normally use to handle chemicals. I am using it exclusively on the outside and using a respirator. It works well but also makes a mess. If I had access to a sandblasting cabin I would use it instead of this, but, as I said previously, I am doing this on a budget...
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20th May 2024, 01:46 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Yup I hate the stuff, I bought some heavy duty rubber gloves for working with chemicals which seems to work. Not sure what is worse using paint stripper or using a heavy duty wire wheel on a angle grinder.... I actually ended up using paint stripper first followed by a wire wheel. My garage floor is now stained with various shades of colour from the paint/paint striper - it's messy!
Would love one of those big industrial sand blasters for large parts!
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20th May 2024, 03:58 PM #11
I do the same. I scrape as much paint and paint stripper off as I can - sometimes also using a hand held wire brush. I then wash the whole thing in hot water (if it's small enough to fit in in SWMBOs laundry tub). Then when the surface has dried (usually the next day) I attack the remnants of the paint with a wire wheel.
Difficult to buff corners get scraped with an old screwdriver or similar and then brushed with one of those toothbrush sized wire brushes.
It's fiddly, but gets the job done.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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23rd May 2024, 09:00 AM #12Novice
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I tried to use my non-existent video editing skills to make a video showing how I prepared one piece for painting. This is an adaptor to connect the motor flange to the arbour.
Here in New Zealand it is a bit hard to find Hydrochoric Acid to remove rust, so after some research I found a very cost-effective solution for it: poll pH decreaser, also known as, Sodium Bisulfate. I have used about 13 grams per litre of water and it removed the rust quite well after 6 hours (I guess), as you can see in the video. To neutralise it I used baking soda, but I couldn't see any difference to be honest.
This method seems to be relatively safe, cheap and it is not too aggressive to the metal.
Cheers!
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5th June 2024, 06:33 PM #13Novice
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The handwheels
A lot of this project is based on what Mike Farrington did on his 1972 Delta Unisaw (video here). So I decided to make the handwheels in the same way. After sanding and polishing it well I masked it over and paint it. After the masking tape was removed I have applied two coats of clear coating to prevent rusting.
(Sorry about the camera angle )
Cheers!
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10th June 2024, 01:37 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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I was going to do the same, clear coat, but as someone pointed out one it takes a knock and chips you'll get random rust spots. I still think it's a good idea mind you - I don't really abuse my machines and would be extra careful so perhaps not such a big deal.
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10th June 2024, 02:48 PM #15Novice
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A few more pictures from the painting phase. I have painted the inside with CRC Zinc It and the outside with Hammerite Hammered Dark Green. Both excellent paints but if I would start again I would not use the CRC Zinc It. Not because it is a bad paint, on the contrary, but it is not good for "high traffic" areas. For example, I had to manipulate the arbour mechanism, grease it, etc. The zinc paint is removed when you rub it. I have prepared the surfaces quite well, cleaned with acetone and then painted. For the price, I would stick to the Hammerite paint for the inside as well, it is a very tough paint, self-levelling, good coverage and it is more forgiving with the preparation.
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Here you can see that I also added some casters to the side. This was particularly challenging because the saw base isn't straight 90 degrees. I would say it is 105 degrees or so, so you need to compensate the angle by cutting the casters and adding some wedges, I will take more pictures of it later.
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