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  1. #1
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    Default Guides for 32" Crescent style Bandsaw

    While I am still waiting for my son to visit so I can get them last of the saw off the trailer I started to look up google about the guides on the machine.

    It has a Wright style set on the top but the guide on the bottom looks to me to be just a piece of mild steel with a slot in it.

    What would be my best option for the bottom - replacing it with a wright style guide or knocking something up that is similar

    which brings me to my next question - what are the wear blocks made of and do we have somewhere in Australia that might supply this ?


    Rick


    20200816_174918 (Large).jpg 20200816_174925 (Large).jpg 20200816_174801 (Large).jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    ...It has a Wright style set on the top but the guide on the bottom looks to me to be just a piece of mild steel with a slot in it.

    What would be my best option for the bottom - replacing it with a wright style guide or knocking something up that is similar

    which brings me to my next question - what are the wear blocks made of and do we have somewhere in Australia that might supply this
    Wear block can be made of various materials. The Chaco guides on mine have some sort of moulded plastic (maybe with graphite in the mix?).

    Chaco2.jpg Chaco3.jpg 3 wear blocks each side on the Chaco.

    Probably the easiest solution would be to fit a hard timber guides either side. Lignum Vitae would be perfect - but very hard to get (unless you have an old wooden bowling ball laying around). There must be a suitable Aussie hardwood for the job.

    However, the thrust block/wheel at the back would probably need to be steel.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    I made my own . I used a Mig welder . Oxy and LPG gas for brazing and I have a wood mill that also mills steel .

    The milling can easily be done on a drill press with the right two way vice and an end mill in the chuck . The weld could also be done with the Oxy lpg and braze the lot . You need the brazing specifically for adding the Tungsten .

    So you could do the same with drill press and gas for brazing .

    The wear pads are used scrap solid tungsten blades from a head of some sort . Their in common use these long ones and get thrown out after they wear out , also the square ones used in thickneser heads get thrown out after use .

    If you dont have gas or drill press there are other ways and materials . I used a lot of different stuff over the years and they all wore out until I tried this tungsten . Wood or Brass lasts about 6 weeks ! Or something like that . . Its a pain .

    You may be able to use some or all of this to do it yourself ?

    I used 40 x 40 x 3mm wall thickness rhs

    The first bit is that little fold out . It hooks under the bottom of the Wadakin casting .
    One of the best little tricks a mate showed me was how to do this to create a clean inner or outer angle in any steel size. I cut out the end of the rhs and left that tag . Then cut through the inside along where I want to fold it out , leave a 1mm bit though so it now bends out and fill the cut with weld or Braze if you only have that . I heated this one before the bend as well but you don't always have to heat.
    I then also milled along it to get it even more crisp but just bending it leaves a clean inner corner and the weld is on the other side unseen or used. I did the slot in the same set up . Cut the rest off the end of the 40 x 40 rhs and brazed the Tungsten on .

    I run big blades on this saw but it'd be easier making smaller ones for smaller blades . Nothings wearing that Tungsten out !

    If somehow I managed to have the blade go to far back though while running and the teeth collect the guides , its going to wipe out the blade in one go . So I haven't seen that happen yet .

    I have a friend who does a lot of commercial re sawing and he uses same guides . He ran a blade into the guides somehow. He told me . Kaboom finished !
    IMG_6759.JPGIMG_6763.JPGIMG_6762.JPGIMG_6765.JPGIMG_6858.JPG

    That's My Wadkin LQ Mill . A small job like this and a drill press would be good at it .
    IMG_6766.jpg

    Rob

  5. #4
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    Default

    On these big band saws do the blocks rub all the time or are they set up very close?
    I always thought the blocks were consumable, designed to be softer than the blade so it didn't wear the blade but after searching google it seems to be that the blocks are made from something harder than the blade.

    Could some one explain how this works ?

    Why don't they use bearings like they do on the smaller band saws ?
    The more I look the more confusing it seems, I'm sure it will all fall into place.

    Thanks for the posts and suggestions so far

    Rick

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    On these big band saws do the blocks rub all the time or are they set up very close?...
    Very close. Not touching when not cutting wood.

    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    ...I always thought the blocks were consumable, designed to be softer than the blade so it didn't wear the blade but after searching google it seems to be that the blocks are made from something harder than the blade...
    Some bandsaw guides use something consumable at the sides (wood, plastic). Mine uses a plastic product of some sort. Others use ball bearing races or ceramic side guides. Your (and Auscab's) solid steel/carbide side guides scare me - not through experience (I don't have any experience with solid side guides), but it seems counter-intuitive to me.

    Mind you, I don't like the idea of side ball bearings either. I just know that one day I'd do something silly that would take the set off the teeth...

    The rear guide has to be something hard wearing.

    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    ...Why don't they use bearings like they do on the smaller band saws ?...
    There's no reason you can't make or buy a guide that uses ball bearings.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    There are some commercial guides available.
    Carter make them and there a few local dealers.
    Band Saw Guide Upgrade Kit - Retrofit Kits & Guides, Brackets & Studs | Carter Products

    Timbecon stock these:
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...ring-guide-set
    Tney also have ceramic guides.

    You could also go Rolls Royce option and get a Vesper Tools one.
    Band Saw Guides

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,421

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    The old Woodfast wood and metal bandsaws at the menís shed use short 1/2Ē diam brass blocks.If you would like a couple of pieces of phosphor bronze (a bit harder wearing) I am happy to give them to you.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    There are some commercial guides available.
    Carter make them and there a few local dealers.
    Band Saw Guide Upgrade Kit - Retrofit Kits & Guides, Brackets & Studs | Carter Products

    Timbecon stock these:
    https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...ring-guide-set
    Tney also have ceramic guides.

    You could also go Rolls Royce option and get a Vesper Tools one.
    Band Saw Guides
    I had seen these in my searches and the Vesper ones look lovely, I will add them to my ideas collection.


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    The old Woodfast wood and metal bandsaws at the menís shed use short 1/2Ē diam brass blocks.If you would like a couple of pieces of phosphor bronze (a bit harder wearing) I am happy to give them to you.
    Thanks Bob for the offer, I actually have one of those Woodfast 14" band saws. I may take you up on your offer when I get round to the guides. At the moment stripping the paint is my next mission

    Rick

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by warrick View Post
    While I am still waiting for my son to visit so I can get them last of the saw off the trailer I started to look up google about the guides on the machine.

    It has a Wright style set on the top but the guide on the bottom looks to me to be just a piece of mild steel with a slot in it.

    What would be my best option for the bottom - replacing it with a wright style guide or knocking something up that is similar

    which brings me to my next question - what are the wear blocks made of and do we have somewhere in Australia that might supply this ?


    Rick


    20200816_174918 (Large).jpg 20200816_174925 (Large).jpg 20200816_174801 (Large).jpg
    Contact Chris Vesper for these ...



    Band Saw Guides


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Glen Forrest, Western Australia
    Age
    61
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Contact Chris Vesper for these ...



    Band Saw Guides


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    I would love too Derek but they are a bit out of my price range, a completes set would cost me 5 times what I paid for the saw

    Rick

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