Thread: Old lady took a fall! - Barker??
20th Jan 2015, 01:19 PM #1
Old lady took a fall! - Barker??
When people get careless.
This is how is was a few days ago.
Whilst being loaded by a for lift she took a tumble. No sling was used.
The wheels were off at the time.
The top adjuster which is a bolt on part, (I believe this make the machine a early model?) from the photos has had the attachment flange broken off and the spring adjuster arm also.
These are the table base, not sure what the first pic actually is other than the two pieces that broke off, but what, second is the rocker which appears to be cracked down the centre
There is also a crack in one of the feet, it did have fresh professional poured babbit bearings not sure how they would have faired up.
It was suggested that the bandsaw is a Barker, but I don't think it is as there is no embossed logo in the usual place.
I'm really upset about it and not sure how I will proceed. The old Gal survived all this time until………
The top adjuster is getting priced for welding (professionally??) the rest may be done by the dropee.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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20th Jan 2015, 01:32 PM #2
The pic on the left looks like the cradle that the table rests on and tilts , the right pic looks like its mate on the underside of the table .
Fixed easily by the looks, with a welder.
It must have hit the table when it fell over, lucky that didn't break !!
Did he send pics of the broken wheel adjuster ? that sounds worse.
20th Jan 2015, 01:40 PM #3
20th Jan 2015, 01:52 PM #4
Oh !! starts off like the sound of a tyre going down.
No need to say the rest .
Oh Why not.
20th Jan 2015, 01:57 PM #5
Yep that about sums it up! On a brighter note the Jointer is at the neighbour's factory and coming home to the shed around 4pm. Hopefully unloading goes without incident.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
20th Jan 2015, 01:58 PM #6
I would be looking to take blood in a case like this
20th Jan 2015, 02:21 PM #7
It can be repaired though. The opinions will vary as to which method is used . I did similar repairs to your top break where the spring bolt goes through on my small BS
There is Ni cad rods with heating and slow cooling
There is Ni cad cold with short bursts
And then there is Bazing with bronze . The old experienced usually say this is best.
Some guys on youtube show repairing cast with a MIG and Stainless wire of some sort.
I did My BS with Mig, and standard wire. I did a big 45 degree grind out on each side and filled it with the Mig , finished with a nice large overlap .
I did the same on a chisel mortiser.
Mig weld a 20 cent piece size of weld to some scrap cast iron and then try and break it off .
Both those Mig repairs have held for years.
Ni cad rods cost a bit .
A pro welder would be charging decent bucks to weld up all that. 4 to $500 with a guess ?? off a reasonable guy .
More off a money smart welder I would bet. the kind who owns a big boat and goes fishing on his days off and knows how to charge.
It would be interesting to see what they quote.
20th Jan 2015, 02:27 PM #8
MG260 stick electrodes will work on gray cast iron like that. I had a vise handle that broke, iron so gray it was almost black. Wouldn't take any kind of bronze braze or even 40% silver. MG260 1/8" with about 300oC of torch preheat at 90A worked great.
If you do have somebody use nickel rods on it make sure that they use the type that make a machinable deposit because some rods make a non-machinable bead. If you're careful with a file and die grinder you can contour the weld so that you can hardly see the break after painting.Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.
20th Jan 2015, 02:31 PM #9
I should hear back tomorrow with a price on repair. I would think $4-500 would make the repair unviable.
I can't weld for nuts and don't have a mig so I couldn't do it.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
20th Jan 2015, 03:20 PM #10
See what he says .
When I did it with MIG I heated it up first with gas , welded it , then did a very slow cool down by burying it in a drum of fine sawdust with a lid on top . It takes more than 12 hrs to cool down enough to be able to handle it.
You've got to make sure there are no places for air to get in as well . I did that the wrong way once and came back to a pile of ash the next day . I had other safety measures in place just in case.
20th Jan 2015, 05:30 PM #11
20th Jan 2015, 06:42 PM #12
According to the OWWM guys in the USA it is/was a Crescent which is what I was hoping and matches my Jointer….. And in a way my post drill collection of Silvers, as Crescent used to manufacture for Silver Man Co.
Probably a late 1800s bandsaw.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
25th Jan 2015, 12:46 PM #13
The saw has been welded. Waiting now on photos to see what sort of job was done.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
25th Jan 2015, 01:35 PM #14
It don't look pretty and you will always be able to tell it was repaired. I don't think the welds could be ground back without affecting the strength of the repair,not sure.
The foot apparently was poorly cast and had been filled with white metal. This oozed out with the heat from the weld.
I'm guessing this could be tidied up with some automotive filler, I think you guys call it bondo.
The Trunion, cradle. I guess this won't really be seen
I think the rocker has been left with the crank down the middle.
Now these are the pieces that concern me the most. Both are part of the top wheel adjuster assembly.
Screen shot 2015-01-21 at 1.39.44 PM.jpgScreen shot 2015-01-23 at 4.15.36 PM.jpg
Dsel74 Posts: 27Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 12:21 pm
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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