Thread: Robinson TD - E 30 Inch Bandsaw

Thanks to everyone who has contributed!

Rob those pamphlets are great and I've pored over it to see what it might have looked like new.

More photos on the top guides below.

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I took the two metal guides off to see if there was any indication of an additional material, however it became apparent that they are all of a single piece of brass or bronze.

They have both worn quite a bit, which seems to be from wear from rubbing on the side of the blade. They have also worn unevenly, maybe from previous owners favouring right hand cuts, or biased blades?

The metal guides have a little rebate which sits on a corresponding ledge on the guide, however when seated properly, they splay away from the blade quite a lot. No big deal as they can be positioned to be parallel quite easily and held in place with the screws.

The good news is I don't think these need replacing, however I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the utility of filing the worn edges straight, or just keep them slightly convex.

You can also see that the grey paint is not original as it has been painted over threads, bolt heads etc. That's some on the guide in the 3rd picture, which I'm sure wasn't done at the factory. I'm not thinking about a repaint of the whole machine at this stage, just cleaning it up, replacing / fixing whatever needs it to optimise performance. That said, the darker grey / gunmetal colour that shows underneath in patches looks a lot better than its current colour.

Thanks, Zac.

By the looks of the guides they need fixing up . Just filing or grinding straight doesn't look good enough . They look to have run out of travel. Or are close to running out. I once fitted brass guides to one of my band saws and they didn't last long before losing the required shape . Bronze is harder and probably longer lasting in a guide like that. I was just reading about it here . Bronze vs Brass, What is the difference? Which is better?

Robinson would have cast and machined the ones on your saw. Unless they are later replacements done by someone with the skills . I just looked at George white and they don't sell solid Bronze flat that you could machine some from . Non Ferrous Metals Suppliers | George White Co & Pty Ltd

At least you have them to copy from or repair. You could Braze Bronze rod and fill the missing worn parts in. Or Braze on solid Bronze . A bit of a process. Or You could make or have new ones made.
Chris Vesper does work on band saws . I think I read he was doing guides for someone . Vesper Tools – Superb Quality Woodworking Tools – Since 1998

If it were my problem id be replacing the just worn parts with the same or better.

I did my own guides on My Wadkin DR 30 . Ive only done one pair. It takes a pretty basic type of guide. The saw would take more above and under the table . They work perfectly so I haven't done any more yet.
The originals were wood. Wood means replacing every year or two I think .
I cut and machined some steel and brazed Tungsten pads to that to sit each side of the blade for the blade to skid on if it deflects up against them.

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I use a 1.25" deep blade on that saw. I only rip stuff down to size on it . Ive got two other smaller Band saws, one running a 3/8" blade and another running a 1/4" blade. If I was swapping blades on the 30" saw to smaller ones I may need smaller guides for that ? With a set under the table as well .

Your lucky if you get a classic machine in its original paint. What you have isn't to bad compared to what was originally on it. Id be wire brushing and buffing some of the steel knobs and threads that shouldn't be painted and getting the running parts around the guides and bearings oiled and running nice first. Re paint is a lot of work .
My Wadkin DR was just re buffed bare steel parts and a coat of clear over the paint . With a finishing touch of Red paint on the Wadkin name on the bottom door.

Originally Posted by auscab

By the looks of the guides they need fixing up . Just filing or grinding straight doesn't look good enough . They look to have run out of travel. Or are close to running out...

I have to agree.

Originally Posted by auscab

...At least you have them to copy from or repair. You could Braze Bronze rod and fill the missing worn parts in. Or Braze on solid Bronze . A bit of a process. Or You could make or have new ones made...

I did wonder about building up with braze then filing to shape - but I wasn't sure if brass/bronze would be suitable. Maybe build up with welding rod?

Being a traditionalist I do like the idea of sticking with hardwood guides below the table - at least until you get sick of replacing them regularly.

Cheers, Vann.

Bit more attention given to the top guides today.

First thing was to take it all apart and give everything a good clean. Everything has seized and the guide could not be moved in or out, nor up or down.

The rear thrust bearing had also seized.

Pictured below is with everything cleaned and oiled with a new bearing in place.


The column at the back was also cleaned and the strap connecting to the spring was also reattached. The guide can now be moved up and down the full depth of travel with relative ease. The spring makes it quite easy to move the guide up, despite the weight of all that cast iron. There's just over 390mm of cutting height under the guide at full height.

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Next stop is the bottom guides. I took them off to have a look. They are approx 25mm thick and made of an unknown hardwood, although one that is not particularly dense. They'd been painted grey, in situ. Im convinced the metal guide is supposed to slide in and out, but is currently seized in place. I'll have a closer look at this next, as well as make some new guide blocks in the correct shape from a suitably hard-wearing WA hardwood. I'm thinking of using Wandoo at this stage.

The time is approaching to order a new blade. I take it I can't go wrong ordering from Henry Bros. Would a bimetal 1/2 inch 3tpi be considered a good allrounder?

Thanks, Zac.

That sounds ok.
I used similar blades on a 36” Wadkin DR in the model shop at the Uni.
I used to weld them up next door in the toolroom using the welder on the metal bandsaw from a roll of Starrett blade stock.
H.

I was able to remove the lower guide last night. Once the paint was removed from the rear portion of the shaft, it slid out of its housing nicely. There is a dowel in there that doesn't look original, so I'll need to investigate that a bit more. Making new lower guides from a suitable hardwood doesn't look like too much of a of a challenge.

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While I was at it, the blade clearance insert had seen better days, so that came out as well. I'm thinking of a fitting hardwood replacement, but am also tempted by the shiny brass one that Rob posted on his DR.

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The table is 19mm thick cast iron at it's thinnest point in between the ribs. Makes for a hefty table.

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Thanks, Zac.

Originally Posted by Fergiz01

While I was at it, the blade clearance insert had seen better days, so that came out as well. I'm thinking of a fitting hardwood replacement, but am also tempted by the shiny brass one that Rob posted on his DR.

My Brass one is brass sheet glued onto plywood . I think its 3 or 4mm ?

Originally Posted by Fergiz01

...While I was at it, the blade clearance insert had seen better days, so that came out as well. I'm thinking of a fitting hardwood replacement...

I made a wooden replacement for mine. I put a bevel on one side but obviously didn't get it right because I cannot tilt the table anywhere near 45 degrees.

Cheers, Vann.

It's been while since the last update, but I plead that I had to rearrange much of my shed to fit the new bandsaw in.

I managed to get the lower guide assembly out and clean everything up. The layer of paint on the guide shaft prevented it from being adjusted in or out, however this is now gone and all the parts have been cleaned and now adjust smoothly.

I made new Jarrah lower guides and a new table insert from Jarrah, however this will need to be redone when the new resaw blade arrives from McDivens (taking my time to ensure a better fit). As it is they both work fine. I fitted the new blade it came with (pictured), adjusted everything and peeled off some 5mm slices from a 200mm Karri board. Very happy with how everything works. Very much looking forward to fitting the new 27mm resaw blade when it arrives.

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More to come. Thanks, Zac.

Looks good

Wow nice machine!
That's a lifetime machine for sure.

I can't help wonder if the number 770 is indicative of it's size or factory model number. I find it had to believe that is a serial number, foundries didn't usually get that fussy changing the numbers for each casting they did.
30" x 25.4 is 762mm. Nominal 770 dia wheels, that's just what a 30" machine is. Wheel diameter for bandsaws is not terribly precise either btw. Sometimes a machine is designated a 30" machine for example, and that might mean that's its actual throat width. To make 30" throat size the wheels need to be 30.5" or a tad more because of the guarding on LHS of blade and the need for the band to clear that. Or if your wheels are actually 30" bang on then the throat size will be 29.25" or there abouts.

So to me the 770 really fits as designating machine size.

I'm not here shilling for business, but if you need the wheels re-rubbered and machined I can help with that.

Originally Posted by Chris Vesper

...I can't help wonder if the number 770 is indicative of it's size or factory model number. I find it had to believe that is a serial number, foundries didn't usually get that fussy changing the numbers for each casting they did...

Hi Chris. I'd like to respectfully disagree.
Firstly, I doubt the Poms would use a metric designation, unless it is a relatively recent machine (say mid-1960s on), but then why have a separate designation with the size in imperial - 30".

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Secondly, the 770 is stamped on, not cast in.


But on the subject of cast numbers, I was very surprised to find the order number (WR 6064) on a cast plate attached to my Wadkin 9" buzzer (one of 12 ordered by NZ Railways back in 1926).
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And I was even more impressed to find Thos. Robinson had actually cast the order number (WR 6748) into the main casting of this buzzer a year or two later (one of four ordered by NZ Railways before 1930).

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You wouldn't catch a manufacturer doing that these days.

Cheers, Vann.

Hey yes indeed I am sure you are correct! I will duly go and eat slice of humble pie... ) You are certainly right that no manufacturer of pretty well anything would do that these days beyond a stamped label.

Thank you for the info and setting me straight.

Beautiful jointer by the way, that is one heck of an awesome machine, like an aircraft carrier.

Dunno about that, those white wogs might not be up to casting numbers in their kit anymore but us colonials sure can.
Here’s the first Aluminium Ewheel for moi, note the ‘A1’ .
The boys did another for demos and changed it to ‘A2’.
Note also my initials and the date.
The cast iron multitude were dated 2012.
H.