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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    409

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    I decided against a spiral head for two reasons.

    1) I was able to buy 2 1/2 cubic metres of rough sawn jarrah decking boards at auction for the same price that the spiral cutterhead would come to, and;

    2) I need the jointer thicknesser in working order to machine my boards as I want to start building my deck.

    More on the machine to come as I put it back together.

    Pictured is half the decking purchased.

    Cheers,
    Zac.

    Sent from my Nokia 4.2 using Tapatalk

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    409

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    This thread is long overdue for an update. The XSD is finally back together. All bearings were replaced and it has had a new paint job. All moving parts have been cleaned of rust and degreased. We also put a grub screw in the motor pulley cause as far as we could see it was just being held on by friction. I've kept the standard 4inch dust outlet and will see how it goes. I have the 6 inch pipe to adapt it if dust collection is inadequate as is. I've still got a bit of dialling in to go as far as the tables are concerned but it's pretty close now. I've attached a few photos below.

    Thanks,
    Zac.

    Sent from my Nokia 4.2 using Tapatalk

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

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    F
    a
    n
    t
    a
    s
    t
    i
    c
    !!

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    409

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    And a shot with the fence.

    Sent from my Nokia 4.2 using Tapatalk

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Gidgegannup WA
    Posts
    14

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    Great job Zac, looking 100%.
    I went through a similar - but lesser - process last year with a Robland NXSD310. Replaced all the bearings and cleaned up some rust etc but didn't give it a paint job. Many of your machine's innards look familiar! Mine came sans fence and cutter guard, but I made a pretty accurate fence from a section of 150x50 aluminium, accurate enough for what I do at any rate. The cutter guard I may have to invest in before something bad happens. I do take a lot of care, but ....
    I highly recommend a set of lockable castors if you haven't already gone there. All the best with your project.
    Len

    20190325_181444.jpg20190321_133637.jpg20190307_124607.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2024
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    2

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    Sorry to necro this thread, but I just found one of these machines in the corner of a workshop in Hawaii and this post is the first description I've found online of a nearly exact match of what I have. (Though I have the mortising option, but no jointer tables.) I'm hoping Fergiz01 gets a notification or something about this, because I'd love to be able to pick his brain a bit about what he learned in the process of restoring it, as I would like to do the same. So far I have only been able to track down the manuals for the XSD-310 model that was imported and sold in the US, and while fairly similar, there are definitely significant differences in my machine from that one. (Now I suspect that an Aussie imported this machine to the islands privately.)

    The only major thing that appears to be wrong with my machine is the shaft is snapped off of the "start" switch. My machine has no 24v control circuit, as shown in the X-31 schematics, and the original start was a big fat Salzer T220 DPST (black cylinder at bottom right of image) that is rated to handle the whole 3kw induction motor, even though one pole only seems to switch the contactor coil while the other pole adds the starter capacitor in parallel to the run capacitor on the auxiliary winding circuit while the switch is held. I have been having quite some difficulty sourcing a direct replacement for that switch in the US, and it seems like it might be quite overkill for what it's doing in the circuit...

    It looks like your machine has already had that big Salzer start switch replaced with a green button. I'm somewhat curious on what that button is rated, and how its held up in use...

    Here's some other things I'd also like to know if possible about this machine that you might have discovered while restoring it:
    - belt specs
    - recommended knife setting height
    - bearing info
    - what's going on with the wiring on the main selector switch

    robland_xsd_electrical.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    409

    Default

    Hi TheDuck808,

    I'm sorry I won't be able to help with your questions regarding the switch and electronics. I didn't touch mine and it's been fine.

    Regarding belts and bearing info - I took them to a local belt and bearing outfit and asked them to replace like for like. Unfortunately I didn't note the specs down at the time.

    The knife setting height is a good question and I'm sure it's in manual somewhere. What I did was use my stock standard blade setting jig, then set my outfeed table to that.

    It's been a great little machine since I've had it. The only thing I can fault is the length of the jointer tables which I find a tad too short for longer lengths. For most of what i do it has been pretty perfect.

    I since mounted it on a lockable castor wheel base, which has been great. Highly recommend being able to move it out of the way when not in use.

    Let me know if you've got any other queries and I'll see if I can help.

    Thanks, Zac.

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