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  1. #1
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    Default Sagar sander restoration

    I had the good fortune to visit an old foundry to buy a couple of machines recently. This is one of them. Its quite a nice little thing with a bobbin on the backside.



    I really like these old isolators

    I didn't think it wise to plug it in

    First balls up

    The sandpaper is held in place by a ring with wing nuts on the stretch the paper over a cork insert.


    Original colour very similar to wadkin

    A nice brass makers tag which should look good once tarted up

    A pretty neat way of holding paper for the bobbin




    I don't get the four plugs in the ends bells, on one end their is brass plugs pressed in and on the other end theirs pig threaded plugs.

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  3. #2
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    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973;n1244003
    I had the good fortune to visit an old foundry to buy a couple of machines recently. This is one of them. Its quite a nice little thing with a bobbin on the backside.

    What a delightful sander - and just the right size for me. I nearly bought a Wadkin of the same size (a JQ) a few years back, but didn't bid high enough. In the end Woodlogic bought it and had it shipped from New Zealand to Australia. I've regretted letting that one slip...

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    ...I didn't think it wise to plug it in...

    That's the special air cooled cord Wallace .

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    ...I really like these old isolators...

    Me too. Especially MEM gear. Here's one I'm doing up - most likely for my Wadkin PK. I think it's the same model as the one you have pictured. The colour is Wadkin grey, which is very close to the original colour as found inside the isolator (switch).

    MEM315a1.jpg Mem4.jpg

    And another older one (late 1920s) with intergral fuses.

    1695c.jpg Before.

    MEM315k2.jpg MEM315k3.jpg After.

    The hinge pin needs a little more work; the stencilling needs another coat of white; and I need to print the reproduced "MEM" transfer.

    It had a broken hinge lug. I brased a piece of cast iron in place...

    MEM315k1.jpg

    ...hacksawed, ground, filed and drilled - until it was the same shape as the other lug.

    And a similar product by Federal of Australia - with thanks to Auscab. Still part way through refurb.

    Fed1.jpg Fed3.jpg

    A few other MEM odds and ends I've gathered over a few years.

    MEMass1.jpg MEMass2.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
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    Default

    A bit more done.
    The motor back together sanded and primed

    A box of bits ready for cleaning

    A soak in that magic evaporust stuff


    a quick clean on the wire wheel, then in the blackening solution

    A liberal splash of wd40

    BIts sanded and primed


    Primer helps to highlight bits that need more bodge

    The table was pretty rusty but cleaned up nice with very little pitting

    I found his under the rust

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Port Sorell, Tasmania
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    Default

    Nice work Mark, what are you using to blue the bare metal?

    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  6. #5
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    I'm using a product from frost automotive. I think its the same stuff you get in the little bottles of gun blue but you get a lot more for your money.
    https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-metal-blacking-solutions.html

  7. #6
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    Apr 2012
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    Sydney
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    Couldn’t find a local rep for Frost but there are others selling Parkerizing kits here including:
    Parkerising / Steel Blackening – Jane Kits
    Black Oxide or Parkerizing | Caswell Australia

  8. #7
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    I tried one of the kits from Caswell uk and found it a bit weak.
    A bit more done. This is the casting I dropped.

    To keep it in place I glue it together

    Then drill and tap

    Of coarse the sole goal of a small tap is to break



    Not pretty but secure and filler can hide anything

    The isolator has been bashed at some point and is close to dropping to bits

    Mig to rescue again


    I got a bit paint on bits


    The switch is in reasonable condition inside


    I need to find a source for 6mm cork or rubber to repair the disc

    On a different note I've had this apple tree root ball sat around for a couple of years. I was hoping to stick it on the lathe and see what comes out. I wonder if this fungi will improve it or eat it

  9. #8
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    Finished. I got some self adhesive neoprene for the wheel









    I got the foundry where I got this from to cast me some double mitres for the pk, out of bronze

  10. #9
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    Sep 2011
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    Northern Beaches, Sydney
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    Nice restoration. That has come up really well.

    Stewie D

  11. #10
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    Perth
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    Great job.

    Did you have the CI hot when you welded it? I found the weld flows better if its hot which of course improves the strength.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Great job.

    Did you have the CI hot when you welded it? I found the weld flows better if its hot which of course improves the strength.
    I just heated it with a blow torch, nothing fancy

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