Thread: Silver Manufacturing Co. Bandsaw Restoration

Id pretty much do as Rob said previously, Id go with high nickel rods using a stick welder. On a piece like yours I wouldn't pin it, I feel that is more likely to weaken it rather than strengthen. A reasonable weld should be plenty strong enough . I have found that the cast iron on some old machines seems to be of lower quality that modern castings and welding can be difficult but you wont know that until you try. Gave one piece off a 1930's ? bandsaw to a mate who is an experienced boilermaker and he struggled.
Nickel rods give a nice ductile (pliable) deposit so cracking shouldn't be a problem on a simple piece like yours. If you where welding a wheel where expansion in one place creates stress in the whole casting then much more care needs to be taken with even pre heating of the whole casting and very gentle cooling. My old tafe teacher said that burying a welded casting in cement powder is a good way to cool it slowly, but shouldn't be necessary in your case. That said, a bit of pre-heating cant do any harm. Prepare it well and if you dont get full penetration, turn it over and vee it out then fill that in.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...It holds a guard (which I'll need to make up out of something - if I could find some scrap brass channel that would be perfect...

These old machines often had a timber guard, like this option on Preston bandsaws.

PR1.jpg

It prevents someone swinging their arm into the blade, but doesn't actually enclose it.

On my Preston it's been replaced with a sheetmetal enclosure.

PR2.jpg PR3.jpg

Mine came with a wire mesh front over the top wheel - which I've left off because I'd need to modify it to fit my low ceiling. So the enclosure is a bit short. I've been considering a wooden guard similar to the original, but with a groove in it to enclose three sides of the blade, and a hinged ply front to enclose to fourth side.

I thought this might give you some inspiration.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks All - RE: Welding cast iron.

Vann, thanks for the guard pics - I have been thinking about a guard for both sides of the blade being exposed (include above the table and below) + guarding for the wheels.

I spoke with Matty (Vic) and he mentioned a lot of guys back in the day would use mesh & some sort of frame to cover the wheels - this still retains it's beauty, you can still see the actual wheels and also prevents risk of most things getting in there (in the unlikely event hands, knees, feet BUT also a potential rogue off cut that falls in under the tabletop). I am on the fence about covering the wheels:

- On one hand you should take extreme care when using a machine like this anyway. Big wheels turning I'm sure are intimidating are you really going to be that careless to even bring a body part remotely close to them when in motion?
- On the other hand, prevention is the best course of action (hence why in a commercial setting bandsaws need to be covered with sufficient guarding etc). I have no doubts accidents happened back in the day which is why regulations came in to protect operators.

Chas I’ve some brass angle if you come up with a plan.
Can throw some on the ute if you want some but need to know by Tuesday am.
Its up to 6ft long and heavy gauge.
Here’s some pics.
I’ll also bring up some pattern letters so you can see them re the badge for your Silver.
Not the Kanimbla badge, that’s just to show the range of letter sizes, it was a short pour.

H.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...a lot of guys back in the day would use mesh & some sort of frame to cover the wheels - this still retains it's beauty, you can still see the actual wheels and also prevents risk of most things getting in there...

With that in mind, this is what came on mine (it has a solid cast iron cabinet enclosing the lower wheel). The outer angle frame and mesh is original Preston guarding (dating back 92 years to 1928). The central rectangular piece was added by the original owner (New Zealand Railways).

P4.jpg

The original owner also added rear guarding (and the bit above the upper guide).

P5.jpg

I don't know what the regulations state, but if I was making this guard from scratch I think I'd use a larger weave (i.e. bigger gaps between wires) - maybe aiming for 25-40mm gaps (if I could find woven mesh - it all seems to be expanded or punched mesh these days). I'd be wanting to stop waved hands accidentally touching the wheels - rather than fingers deliberately poked into the wheel spokes (but the regs probably require it to be idiot proof).

I hope this gives you ideas.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

I hope this gives you ideas.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks for the Photos Vann, it has given me ideas for my bandsaw resto

Rick

Clear_out I'll give you a call.

Vann, that is some pretty elaborate guarding - I am along the same thinking as you, some chicken mesh size stuff would the go.

Tom in the US made these up. I am not buying at this stage (just can't justify it) but DAMN do they look good!

Screenshot_20201214-092239_Instagram.jpg Screenshot_20201214-092257_Instagram.jpg

A bit of progress on the bandsaw - I had the shaft machined perfectly and had the bronze bush replaced. Just have to add a grove for oil or grease and install an oil cap or grease cap:



The machinist thinks it's been replaced previously - it wasn't a standard size so had to be hand made.