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  1. #16
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    Default Feed Roller Bronze Bearings.

    The next issue concerns the bronze bearings for the roller.

    The bearings are lubricated via a grease nipple set deep into a counterbore in the bearing block. It's set so deep that it has to have a washer to prevent the threaded portion extending down into contact with the roller. The washer isn't a good fit and so the grease nipple only engages a thread or two. I did wonder if a ball oiler might be a better idea, but my spare ball oilers are 3/8" (9.5mm) and the hole is drilled a little over 11mm.

    Tan27.jpg Tan28.jpg

    The next issue is orientation. The grease nipples are located on the outer side of the bearings. This means the side covers of the machine have to be removed to apply grease.

    Tan23.jpg < as found - - - proposed > Tan24.jpg

    If I change the orientation so the nipples are on the inside I will be able to access them by lifting the hinged lid.

    Tan29.jpg

    And while the LH bearing looks the same at both ends, the RH bearing has a chamfer at one end, and just a (worn?) recess at the other.

    Tan25.jpg Tan26.jpg Chamfer (left), recess (right).

    My gut feeling says the chamfer should go against the shoulder on the feed roller - and rotating the bearing so the nipple is inwards would also rotate the chamfer inwards.

    I would value other opinions.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #17
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    Default Pressure Bar Adjusters.

    The arrangement of the pressure bar adjusters is a little different to the roller adjusters. While the roller adjusters are intended to be set once (at the factory) and not touched again, the pressure bar adjusters can be adjusted on the fly.

    The stud is fixed into the knurled knob at the top, and the thread at the bottom lifts or lowers the pressure bar.

    Tan31.jpg Assembled view.

    In the picture below, the continuously threaded rod on the left appears to be a replacement - that has not been cut to the correct length.

    Tan30.jpg Exploded view.

    The hollow bolt is the same as used on the feed roller adjuster. The stud is a little longer than the feed roller stud and threaded 1/4" BSW both ends.

    And I haven't even looked at the outfeed roller and bar .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #18
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    Default Feed Roller Grease Nipples.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The bearings are lubricated via a grease nipple set deep into a counterbore in the bearing block. It's set so deep that it has to have a washer to prevent the threaded portion extending down into contact with the roller. The washer isn't a good fit and so the grease nipple only engages a thread or two...
    Having decided that finding ball oilers to fit the counterbores was unlikely, I decided to try to improve the grease nipples.

    Tan27.jpg

    First issue: on one grease nipple the end of the screw-in portion was showings signs of wear.

    Tan33.jpg

    There's no sign of gouging on the bearing journal. Nevertheless I'm not happy with steel to steel contact so I ground a little off the length to give some clearance.

    Next: that ill-fitting steel washer.

    Tan32.jpg

    I removed the washer and made two replacement copper washers - by drilling a 6.5mm hole and then cutting and filing ~11mm diameter discs from a piece of scrap copper sheet. I then annealed them (on SWIMBOs kitchen stove while she was out).

    Tan34.jpg Tan35.jpg A much better fit.

    And while they are out I pumped new grease through (not knowing the type nor condition of the existing grease).

    Ready to be installed now.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #19
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    Default Two Steps Forward, One Step Backwards.

    One of the roller studs was bent at the bottom where it screws into the bronze bearing. I decided to make up some new studs. I went to the local steel merchant to buy some 1/4" round bar (it's in their online catalogue). None at the local branch. None at any of their other branches in New Zealand. Bugger!

    Did I want 7mm round bar? I declined - it would take a lot of work removing the extra material with the dies. As it turns, out even 6.5mm rod would be tight inside the spring - 7mm wouldn't have fitted.

    So I drilled and tapped a bit of flat steel bar, screwed in the stud and did my best to bend it straight-ish . I didn't want to damage the tapped hole in the bronze bush - hence the tapped steel bar.

    Then I fitted the pressure bar and adjusters back into the machine.

    Next I fitted the left-hand bronze bush and adjuster. But when I tried to pass the roller in from the right-hand side the pressure bar was in the way. I needed to disassemble the pressure bar again. In the end I found that by removing enough of the right-hand pressure bar adjuster to get it's spring out, I could just scrape the feed roller through the gap. Then it took several goes to get everything lined up.

    The infeed side is now ready to set up with correct clearances:
    - infeed roller ~1/32" below the level of the knives;
    - infeed pressure bar level with the knives.

    But I'm off to Dunedin on holiday in the morning (8:45am ferry) so no progress will be made for the next two weeks.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
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    Default

    I love to know how that gouge in the roller occurred.
    Looks like someone tried a piece of gal pipe through it.

  7. #21
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    I love to know how that gouge in the roller occurred.
    Looks like someone tried a piece of gal pipe through it.
    Yes, impressive isn't it. Some people really know how to abuse machinery.

    There was another Tanner thicknesser of the same model on Trademe a couple of months ago - in pieces. It was nearby too. $350. I ummed and aahed too long and missed out. It would have been a good source of spare parts - and of a good infeed roller.

    Tanner 45.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #22
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    Default Outfeed - pt.1.

    Have re-hashed the infeed roller and pressure bar assemblies I pulled out the outfeed pressure bar. Also the springs and studs for the outfeed roller along with one of the bearings. Removing the other bearing would have required removing the gearbox, which I wasn't prepared to tackle at this time.

    Tanner 40.jpg

    There was still surface rust on the outfeed roller and removing that revealed a few marks and grooves in the roller surface. I carefully filed the surface around each and every indent to make sure there were no high spots. I hope the remaining depressions don't leave marks on timber going through the machine.

    Tanner 41.jpg Upper cylinder is the cutterblock, lower cylinder is the outfeed roller.

    There were three long (pressure bar) studs and only one shorter (feed roller) stud. And only one pressure bar knurled knob.

    Tanner 42.jpg

    One of the long studs was quite bent, and while straightening it I noticed a crack in the rod. The threaded portion broke off very easily.

    Tanner 43.jpg

    The solution was to turn it into the missing short rod by cutting more thread on the snapped end, and then cutting to length. I ran a die nut down all the other threads and in the process found that the other short rod was bent right on the thread. I had found a 300mm length of 1/4" rod so I made up another short rod.

    Tanner 44.jpg

    Deciding how much thread is required was... challenging. One end of each rod had 1/4" threaded. The one short rod was threaded 7/8" on the other end (I wish I'd measured the others when I had the infeed in bits ). The other end of the three longer rods were threaded 2 x 1 1/8" and 1 1/2". While the one I did measure from the infeed end was threaded 1 3/4". I decided to run with 7/8" for the short rods, and I settled on 1 1/2" for the long rods.


    I've just finished annealing more copper washers for under the the grease nipple and hope to re-install the outfeed roller bronze bearing tomorrow.

    I'm not sure what to do about the missing knurled knob. I had a quick look through my bits and pieces, but I think I'll have to get a new knob made.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #23
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    Default Outfeed - pt.2.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...I've just finished annealing more copper washers for under the the grease nipple and hope to re-install the outfeed roller bronze bearing tomorrow...
    Yup, I got the bearing back in, and fitted the adjusters - also the chain drive.

    Tanner 45.jpg

    Next step will be setting the recommended heights for the pressure bars and rollers. I have one of these.

    Wadkin gauge.jpg Wadkin "Precision Cutter Setter".

    I'll have to work out what the graduations are (probably thousandths of an inch).

    I'm also repainting the top cover (weather permitting).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #24
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    Default Parts Diagram.

    Hot off the press (just got sent this today by a friend)...



    Unfortunately there's no list of the parts - with descriptions.

    This is for the later version of the Tanner 12" thicknesser (with variable speed).

    Cheers, Vann.

    (also posted in the Manuals section)
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #25
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    Default Pamphlet.

    I was also sent this:





    Which leaves me wondering if mine is a GB 165, a GB 160A, or a GP 160B (or a GFB 165 - as found on an "Instructions" manual). I guess, as mine has a 3hp 3ph motor, it can't be a GP 160B.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #26
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    Default Death by Drowning.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I've spent some time on a long delayed (covid ) trip to Auckland. While there I visited the guy who bought my half of that Tanner. He still has it.

    Tanner2a.jpg Tanner2b.jpg Surrounded by junk, I managed to get a photo of one side and the back.

    It's not in use - but he was unwilling to sell me parts, as he wanted to eventually sell it 'complete' (if not actually 'working')...
    I don't know if you guys heard about the recent flooding in parts of New Zealand. It didn't affect us here in Wellington, but Auckland copped a fair dosage. The old guy who had my/our old Tanner had his 'shack' washed out. It has since been demolished and he's moved to a relative's care. The workshop where the thicknesser was stored also had some flooding, and as a result there was a major tidy up. The thicknesser got thrown in a scrap bin .

    I heard about it, and as I was planning another Auckland trip I asked if the scrapping could be delayed - and could I have some parts please. They hauled it out of the skip for me...

    Tanner0.jpg See the flood "high water mark" around the base.

    Note: switchgear smashed, table broken, speed adjustment handle broken off (damn, I wanted that), table height adjuster shaft bent and the base casting it was mounted in broken, lid dinged in two places.

    I did get a bunch of bits and pieces off it (for a later post).

    And just out of interest, I wondered when the colour change from green, to brown and yellow, had occurred. On the bottom of the broken table I noted that it was originally been green, but had been re-painted before leaving the factory (we bought it new). That was in the late 1970s.

    Tanner1.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #27
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    Default

    Looks like it was literally "thrown" in the bin!

  14. #28
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    Default Needs and Wants - pt.1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    ...I did get a bunch of bits and pieces off it...
    I thought I 'needed' some bits, but I have a working thicknesser - so really, there were only bits I 'wanted'.

    1) First was the handle for the feed speed ajustment. Mine is broken, and although I've cobbled up a repair, I wanted an unbroken one and there was one on this machine.

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroller View Post
    Looks like it was literally "thrown" in the bin!
    Yup, and guess what got broken .

    2) Next I wanted a "Tanner" badge for the cutterblock cover. Mine is stripped of all signage. I was going to take the whole cover (saving a part of the original machine), but it had two significant dings, so I just took the badge (no photo). To keep a part of the original machine I took the chain cover casting instead.

    Tan 39.jpg

    3) I was missing a knurled nut for one end of a pressure bar. I grabbed all the nuts, rods and springs for the pressure bars and rollers.

    Tan 31.jpg

    4) I was also able to to disassemble the machine enough to remove and save both pressure bars.

    Tan 36.jpg

    5) I have a massive gouge in the infeed roller. While I was in there I retrieved the infeed roller, but...

    Tan 32.jpg

    ...this one also has a problem. Tan 33.jpg

    6) Also while I had it in bits I grabbed some bearings for the feed rollers.

    Tan 43.jpg Tan 44.jpg

    But... one bearing is cast iron (RH) not brass/bronze. And one is so worn (LH) it's nearly worn through the bottom. I was unable to get the 4th bearing off, but it too was very worn. I now have one spare bearing. These bearings do not have grease nipples - but one has what appears to be a felt pad in the lubrication hole.

    7) The knives had been removed from the cutterblock. Last time I saw the machine the bars that hold the knives were sitting on the table. Amazingly one was still there (the other two presumably lurking in 100mm of water and murk in the bottom off the scrap bin). It's mine now. The heads on some of the bolts were rounded, but better than nothing.

    Tan 34.jpg Tan 35.jpg

    (to be continued)

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #29
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    Default Needs and Wants - pt.2.

    I grabbed the two knurled nuts that hold the belt cover on - I want one, as I have a ring-in. Also the knurled nut that holds the table raise/lower handwheel.

    Tan 37.jpg

    And one belt cover stud (spare).

    Tan 38.jpg

    And the belt cover itself.

    Tan 41.jpg

    I'm going to use the brown one as it has a few less bends and dings. I've done a little panelbeating and have spent the last few days bogging and priming it. Hopefully I'll get a coat of enamel on in the next day or two.

    I noticed this on the green belt cover.

    Tan 42.jpg
    Somehow I feel that if you didn't realise it's a "thicknesser" you probably shouldn't be using it .

    I also retrieved one of the table rollers (no picture)

    So anyway, if anybody needs a part for a Tanner thicknesser, let me know.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Default

    Do you have the "locking dogs"? Not sure if that is the correct name, I mean the bits that stop the wood from being kicked back out the input side. Mine didn't come with anything there, from what I can tell they weren't removed and some versions were sold without them.

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