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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodlogic View Post
    I have a Landcruiser with a tow pack and brake control which I'll drive instead. I doubled checked the measurements for the tabletop and it should fit in the back fine with the seats folded down.
    don't forget to firmly strap the top to the floor of the Landcruiser
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
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    Sep 2008
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    Default A Timely Thraed

    Boy is this thread timely !!! Today I won this Preston Woodworking Machinery Co. (Canada) bandsaw, with 30" wheels.

    Preston1.jpg Preston2.jpg

    On Monday I'll remove the two doors; the guards; the upper wheel; and the table (seeing as broken table trunnions seem to be a regular occurance ). I have to remove the upper guards and upper wheel, as the machine stands ~2.5m high and the ceiling in my garage is ~2.3m (I'll be cutting a slot in the ceiling when I've got it in its final location (the joists above are 300mm deep)

    I'm not sure whether to use a truck with hi-ab, because it won't fit down the driveway, and I had a major hassle with my Wadkin PK two months ago... https://forum.canadianwoodworking.co...in-PK-Marooned (you may need to join that forum to see the pictures)

    ...or to get a mate to take it on his big trailer - which has a winch and the ability to unload by tipping (direct into my garage). This is only an option because of the short distance - about 6km - so we can do two trips.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #18
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    Mar 2013
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    Pembrokeshire, Wales
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    Lovely bandsaw there Vann, congratulations! Maybe needs to go in Mattys' thread too?

    Are the towing laws for brakes on the trailer much different in Australia than the UK? Here we can tow 750Kg unbraked and upto 3500Kg braked, and that would be an 'over run' breaking system, so no link with the vehicle brakes, just a damped telescopic hitch that applies the trailers brakes mechanically. The vehicle plate has four weights listed, 1 & 2 being vehicle maximum axle weights, 3 the vehicles max gross weight (always slightly less than the sum of 1 & 2), and the 4th weight being 'Gross Train Weight', being the all up weight of combined vehicle and trailer. When you get pulled in that's the one they look at most keenly, as long as your under that and looking reasonable it seems fine.

  5. #19
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by sion.dovey View Post
    Lovely bandsaw there Vann, congratulations! Maybe needs to go in Mattys' thread too?
    Thanks, I think it's rather ugly myself. I've been on the lookout for a Silver/Cresent (preferably a 24"), but in this neck of the woods I think I'd be waiting a long time...

    I don't know if this would be allowed in Matty's thread. Are Canadians really American?

    Quote Originally Posted by sion.dovey View Post
    Are the towing laws for brakes on the trailer much different in Australia than the UK?
    To be honest I don't know how much weight is legal here in New Zealand (I could always look it up I suppose). This bandsaw must weigh the best part of a ton. I don't think it would legal behind my 1800cc Corolla. My mate has a big Dodge (wrong side drive). His trailer only has a single axle (uses the same wheels as his Dodge), so I don't think t would be wise to go too far with a load like this.

    In the end it will be up to him. But it's only 6km...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodlogic View Post
    I also have four 2500kg ratchets straps - not sure if four will suffice.

    Now, Camo, you mentioned about positioning the machine. Whereabouts would be the best place on a trailer? In previous shorter trips I've generally placed the machine over the axle, however I read that it's often better to place it slightly forward. What's your experience?
    For me I go centre and slightly forward.

    Another thing worth mentioning if your new to tying a load, is to pull over down the road a bit to check the load has not shifted and that the ropes/straps are all still tight.

    If your going with straps, I would again recommend backing them up with some ropes, it will be very cheap insurance with a trip that long. Sorry I have trust issues with straps.

    If your hiring a trailer, another thing to add to the checklist is to inspect it thoroughly before taking it (tires, lights, tow hitch, safety chain, brakes, wheel nuts, springs, etc.). I've seen some pretty bad, even what I would consider unsafe hire trailers (that's not to say they are all bad).

    cheers,

    Camo

  7. #21
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    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    God thread and good tips on tying down and securing the load. How have you guys loaded and unloaded these beasts? How many guys are needed to safely move one?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    How have you guys loaded and unloaded these beasts? How many guys are needed to safely move one?
    Really depends on what equipment you have available.
    A forklift would probably only need 2 people (one driving and one guiding/steadying), once you have to start using more manual methods (chain blocks, pallet jacks, engine lifts, etc) you might need a few extra bodies.

  9. #23
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    Mine got lifted off its foundation of the last 25 years, by a forklift truck - but not using the tynes. Instead the operator had an attachment that went on the tynes effectively turning it into a crane. He used a soft sling around the upper part of the main casting (near the top wheel support) and gingerly lifted it off. It didn't break the casting (but I did wonder if it might ).

    Then to get it off the trailer, it was lifted the same way, using a hiab to lift it onto a truck, and back off again into storage (where it is still).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #24
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    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Vann, have you fut a hole in the roof yet to get it in??
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  11. #25
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    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
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    I've transported a Woodfast BS500 (19") which is nowhere near the weight of the Wadkin. Also removed the table & trunions. BS's are difficult to secure well.

    One thing I would suggest is purchasing a couple of 200 x 75 mm or 100mm sleepers to bolt to the feet of the bandsaw. Bandsaws don't have a very large machine footprint and are also relatively top heavy. On a long road trip the machine will move no matter how well strapped it is. Rubber matting will help.

    Cut the sleepers to a length just short of the width of the trailer. While you have the machine lifted off its present footing for loading, temporarily lower it down onto the sleepers, mark the holes, lift it up again, then drill the holes and countersink the bottom side of the holes for the bolt heads. Then slide the sleepers back under the machine with bolts inserted, lower machine, do up bolts, load into trailer. This will remove the sideways movement and if you cut some dunnage to size you can also take care of any fore and aft movement as well. Secure the BS with straps etc.


    https://www.nobles.com.au/getattachm...raint.pdf.aspx
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  12. #26
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    Default How to transport a non-Wadkin bandsaw

    I took delivery of my bandsaw this morning. It came on a truck all strapped down.

    Ar1.jpg Clive had already removed the restraints by the time I remembered my camera.

    The big hunk of cast iron to the left of the saw is the motor stand. I'd left it on while being transported, for extra stability.

    Ar2.jpg Lucky that 4"x4" fenceposts are cheap.

    I'd measured up the saw and knocked-up this wooden cradle for the trip down the driveway.

    Ar8.jpg

    Then using the car to restrain it, we rolled it down on 25mm OD heavy wall pipe rollers.

    As7.jpg As5.jpg Just some gratuitous tool

    Also on the truck was a Bridgeport mill and a Colchester lathe. They weren't for me.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #27
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    Nov 2011
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    Newcastle NSW
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    Vann,

    Well done, looks like you had a good plan, and good execution.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Looks like your on a 'Machinery Trail' Are those tracks from a Wadkin PK I see

  14. #28
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    Feb 2011
    Location
    melbourne
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    i too have a dr30 that i had to move. my advice if possible, is to remove the 3 large bolts that secure the top wheel and its adjustment mechanism to the main neck of the machine. firstly,its come off easily and it doweled in place for future reassembly and perfect alignment, just be wary of damaging the dowels when lifting the wheel off. the other advantage is how dramatically it lowers the centre of gravity. also remove all guards. At all costs, i would avoid restraining the machine from anywhere on the neck, except for at the very base of the neck close down to the main body, you don't want stress on this point, especially if you hit a bump in the road. the straps will be pulling one way and the saw will be wanting to go another. if you remove the weights from up to, the neck can travel stress free. i also bolted two large posts under my machine to increase its footprint and act like runners to allow it to be roller into the workshop on pipe. if you need any other help. dimensions act, let em

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoz View Post
    Looks like your on a 'Machinery Trail' Are those tracks from a Wadkin PK I see
    Yes

    I re-used the bolts from the Wadkin sled for this one. I hadn't noticed how much of the heads have been worn away on the concrete .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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