Thread: How to transport a Wadkin bandsaw

A trailer is definitely the way to go, it'll keep the weight as low as possible.
There's a good pic of strapping (with what looks like 2000kg ratchet straps) here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f299/vintage-american-woodworking-machinery-198326 and I'm sure Matty (L.S.Barker1970) would be happy to give you a few pointers; he's carted all sorts of machinery around.

Originally Posted by woodlogic

​Hi Folks,

I have purchased a Wadkin DR30 bandsaw, which weighs approximately 940kg and stands 2300mm high. I live in Brisbane and will be picking it up in Forster NSW. I have a 2wd Toyota Hilux, but will likely hire a lowset trailer - which type, I'm not sure.

Can anyone give advice on the best way to transport the bandsaw, and what sort of trailer, straps, method etc would be most appropriate.

Regards,
Raymond.J.B

Does the place you're buying the bandsaw from have a forklift?

You might be better off hiring a small (car licence) truck with a lift gate plus a pallet jack.
if you have a heavy vehicle licence even better as you could hire a small truck with a hiab crane to off load it your end.

I think alot depends on how you intend to offload it and handle it your end, a bandsaw is a bit of an intimidating load, they look so unstable even when they are on a concrete floor. I would suggest that if you plan to strip it ultimately anyway then my approach would be table off and maybe top wheel assembly off too, before moving it anywhere, it'll be just so much easier to move by hand with that weight off it, and it will be that bit safer for it too. I would expect an hour with good tools would see alot of weight removed.

Alternatively if there is a machine to load it and you have means to handle it your end, I would carry it upright. Carefully tied on with ratchet straps that will be fine. Below is a pic of a 36" bandsaw approx 8' high that I moved recently. There were 4 separate straps on it, each going from a hook, looped round a point on the machine and back to the same hook effectively (one hook along). I think its important not to try and cross the trailer with the same strap, ie, from one side, a turn round the machine and on to a hook on the other side, that method can easily work loose and allow the machine to move either way along the strap. and drive a bit like I haven't tied it on.

j.Sagar-36inch-bandsaw--002.jpg

Raymond,

firstly congratulations!

Most horror stories revolve around loading and unloading, when it comes to bandsaws. The weak point is the trunnion, and I always remove the table in transport.

I have straps like Matty, and for their cost they are really good. If the trailer has a slippery base, rubber mat under it may be a good idea to stop any tendency to slide.

Straps are good for easy tie down, but they have the risk of being cut, when rubbing, so I have a section of fire hose threaded over the strap at any rub points. I tend to go overboard on tie down. With this load, I would have a minimum of 4 straps, positioned up high, and then back them up with ropes for redundancies (overkill likely, but on a long trip it is good insurance).

At 941kg load position will be important for a smooth drive too.

some or all the info may be obvious, but thought I would mention it

cheers,

camo

All Good points above from the load masters , all you need is Matty as well . You should see some of the pictures of Sion and his loading techniques on the Canadian forum !! Amazing , he taught us all some very useful info with the use of shear legs .
Ive learned plenty in the last few years from Cam Matty Sion Jack and more . learnig this enables you to acquire the bargains.

As Cam said , load position .
Im still getting used to those ratchet straps , I was a scout as a kid and like my ropes , but I do own some heavy duty straps now .

When I picked up my DR We took it apart . Always take off the table . my trunion bracket is broken ( picture 3) from some previous Dong not doing the right thing .
I took mine on a short trip in a 6x4, the tyres needed a little air . Those DR parts are real heavy . a great saw .

When I went to pick up, I took some 2x4 treated pine and a hand saw , I cut it a fraction over size in length and wedged the base of the saw into position very tightly by hammering them in from 6 or 8 ? angles. So there was no chance of it shifting .

Rob

I have moved a few of this size myself and agree with Sion re stripping it especially the table, my DR30 had a brazed tilt quadrant because this wasn't done prior to my buying it.
The top wheel and guard are also worth removing for weight reduction.
I have in the past been able to lay a big bandsaw down on a long trailer.
Old tyres make a soft bed.
The best solution really is a hi-ab equipped truck and competent machinery mover.
Ive had 9 ft tall machines tilt slung and easily put in thru an 7ft door with no dramas.
This would undoubtedly be inpracticle considering the distance involved.
H.

Great advice from everyone above !
I'm a big user of the wide ratchet straps, you just can't go wrong, try if possible to get a few choker ties around say the neck of the Bandsaw.
That will stop any Lateral movement sideways.
I'm also a big fan of a rubber sheet under the machine, metal to metal has a tendency to slide.
Some of my road trips below any way, hope they help.









Melbourne Matty.

If you are going to do a road trip with straps, it's always a good idea to put a single twist in the strap across each span. This will prevent the strap from vibrating itself apart on the highway. It also makes less noise.

Hi folks,

Thanks for your advice. The fellow I'm buying from has a gantry, so lifting won't be a problem.I also have four 2500kg ratchets straps - not sure if four will suffice. Overall I'm getting the general consensus that:

1. A low base trailer is the best option
2. Remove the table, and if possible, the top wheel and other components that are high. Essentially, keeping as much weight at the bottom.
3. Place rubber under the machine to prevent movement

Now, Camo, you mentioned about positioning the machine. Whereabouts would be the best place on a trailer? In previous shorter trips I've generally placed the machine over the axle, however I read that it's often better to place it slightly forward. What's your experience?

Finally, Matty I noticed with your ratchet straps you haven't merely placed it over the machine to secure, but have looped the strap around itself. Is this to prevent sideways movement?

The only other concern I have is ensuring I hire a trailer with descent strap bars on the side - I quickly looked at the trailers from Uhaul and the side bars seemed very thin and lightly welded to the trailer. Has anyone hired a trailer off another company that was rigid and sound for heavy machinery strapping?

Regards,
Raymond.J.B

Hi Raymond

you may want to rethink the trailer.
at 940kg for the bandsaw PLUS the trailer mass you're going to be well over the 750kg gross limit for an unbraked trailer.
Is your Hilux set up to tow a braked trailer?

Perhaps you should consider hiring a small truck -- one that can be driven with a car licence.

I would check that the Hi Lux towing capacity is high enough with the relevant experts. Apparently if it says 2500kg (for instance) that does not mean 2500kg towing but includes what is in the vehicle as well??? There have been some issues around the towing capacities as they are stated but I have never delved into them. As for the position on the trailer there is a maximum vertical load specification on all vehicles and that needs to be allowed for by positioning or spreading the load. Heavier is better than lighter as a general rule. As for twisting straps I have tied and strapped a lot of loads onto trucks and trailers for a living and never seen that done or heard of it.

Originally Posted by ian

Hi Raymond

you may want to rethink the trailer.
at 940kg for the bandsaw PLUS the trailer mass you're going to be well over the 750kg gross limit for an unbraked trailer.
Is your Hilux set up to tow a braked trailer?

Perhaps you should consider hiring a small truck -- one that can be driven with a car licence.

Thanks for your advice, Ian. I should have mentioned I've already changed my mind about using the Hilux. I have a Landcruiser with a tow pack and brake control which I'll drive instead. I doubled checked the measurements for the tabletop and it should fit in the back fine with the seats folded down.

I'm trying to avoid hiring a truck - the cost is exorbitant for the klms I'll be driving. And where possible, I now always avoid freight companies - already had one machine die because of poor unloading by the freight company at the depot.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

I would check that the Hi Lux towing capacity is high enough with the relevant experts. Apparently if it says 2500kg (for instance) that does not mean 2500kg towing but includes what is in the vehicle as well??? There have been some issues around the towing capacities as they are stated but I have never delved into them. As for the position on the trailer there is a maximum vertical load specification on all vehicles and that needs to be allowed for by positioning or spreading the load. Heavier is better than lighter as a general rule. As for twisting straps I have tied and strapped a lot of loads onto trucks and trailers for a living and never seen that done or heard of it.

Thanks for your information, Chris. As mentioned in the last post I'll be driving the Landcruiser. Although I hadn't thought about the maximum vertical load specs. I double checked with Qld Transport and I'll certainly by under, particularly once I remove the wheels and guides. The highest point will be the frame of the bandsaw, as all other components will be disassembled. With that in mind, what's your thoughts on the best way to strap the bandsaw?

With a load such as a bandsaw you really have to make it up as you go. As mentioned getting it off is the challenge if you have not got an overhead lift, how are you going to get it off?