Thread: Unknown age Tanner Saw

I have no experience with Tanner saws. However, looking at the photos, I suggest take the hex nut off the other end and try tapping the pin out the other way (right to left).

It doesn't look like the pin is retained in the casting (though you're in a better position to judge that), but if it appears to be seized, try some heat on the casting. Heat the casting (both lugs) then try forcefully but gently knocking it through with a copper hammer or wooden mallet. If it doesn't move then let it cool but add penetrating oil while still warm (in the hope that cooling will draw the penetrant in). Repeat the next day. The heating and cooling should eventually cause enough expansion and contraction to break any rust bond between pin and casting.

Good luck. Tanner were a passably good brand.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks, I will try that next weekend.
I have tried tapping on each end, but did not want to exert any large amount
of force incase there was some not obvious way of retaining the shaft to the
casting. My thinking is that the shaft is meant to be held in the box frame,
with the casting pivoting on the shaft.
Am I correct that the 2 holes are intended to be oiling points for the pivot pin?

Thanks again ,
Neil

I couldn't wait for the weekend. So tried some heat. It came out really easily. Good thing I took some pictures. I made a drift to hit on the pin with. The pin is 22mm and thought I measured wrong assuming it should have been 7/8 inch 22.2 or so. No its 22mm in the bore and after cleaning the pin with scotchbrite it is about 21.9mm. looks like it has never had any oil apart from the day it was new. No wear on the shaft and very little sign that it was ever pivoting on it. No doubt it worked correctly when new. All the nuts and LF threaded rods are in very good condition with no visible wear as well for the rise and tilt functions. The bearings are shot and looks like it only got grease from the factory.
Thanks again for the help, really appreciated.
Neil

It's so easy in these days of throw away stuff, to forget that these old machines were designed with regular maintenance in mind. A drop of oil here (weekly), a squirt of grease there (six monthly)...

Again, I'm unfamiliar with Tanner's saws, but I would think you're right about those two holes being oiling points. You could cut a couple of plugs from dowel (or similar) and use them to keep sawdust out of those holes between oiling.

People here love to look over your shoulder as you tidy-up/overhaul your machine. A work in progress, with lots of photos, would be appreciated.

Cheers, Vann.

So I replaced the spindle bearings with C2 sealed bearings. I noticed that there is about 0.2mm of end float on these bearings. It has no outer spacer or wavy washers that are often found in a spindle cartridge.
Do people make up or get made an outer spacer and add the wavy washers to control the bearing endfloat?

So I have added some auto oiling ports where the dril oil holes were. The idea being with an oil or grease gun can lube it without taking things apart etc. I also cut back the shaft for raising and lowering the the spindle so that I could add a thrust washer for the direction of the most load. Works great. just needs a dust dirt cover now. Made some step washers to take the excess play out of the blocks for the nuts to adjust the height of the spindle, and for the one to adjust the Trunnion angle. That led to the repair of the main rise and fall mentioned earlier. Will add some brass washers for the front of the handles, to act as a bearing and a replaceable wear part as well. Next is to address the spindle endfloat issue, and at the same time will set up the shaft and flange washer assembly and trim the flange faces true to the run of the assembly.
The parts cleaned so far were either soaked in white vinegar and flushed with baking soda, or were wire brush buffed.
Pic to follow .
One last question, should I be using a splitter on the back of the trunnion assembly behind the blade?

Here are the pics

Nice job, yes a splitter or riving knife are an essential , for many reasons.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Nice job, yes a splitter or riving knife are an essential , for many reasons.

What he said.

Cheers, Vann.

Is there any ideas as to how to make the splitter become a riving knife and adjust with the Blade?
Thanks.
Neil

So I got some bearing spring washers that are used to preload bearings in electric motors etc. All that was required was an approximate length outer spacer. This is the distance of the centre spacer, less the thickness of the circlip and less 1.2 to 1.6 mm for the pair of spring washers. In my case that required a 60.3mm long spacer. It could have been 60.0 mm long. Decided to make it the longest and give it the most spring preload from the washers 1st to see how it goes. Can always take more off. The outside diameter is 39.75mm and made the inside 32mm, Actual is 1-1/4 drill, 31.75mm if it drilled on size. The sleeve has 0.25mm aprox clearance on the housing.
I then assembled the spacers and bearings on the shaft, but did not add the circlip or the Key. Tightened the assembly and set it up in the lathe. Used a dial indicator and got the front and rear bearings running true. I was going to use the steady rest, but just used a 0.2mm radius very sharp tool and faced the required 0.1 mm off in 2 passes to clean up the flange face. If it chattered or looked like it was going to move, would have used the steady rest on the bearing closest to the flange. The front bearing was still running true after the passes. Took it apart, cleaned everything, and reassembled the spindle.
It now has no play or end float which is what I was after. So very happy with. Just wish I had thought of this when I got the bearings and did it right the 1st time round.
Put the old blade on, and it has never run so good.
Next is to paint the handles and clean up the locking thumb screws and other rusted parts, and get tubing and figure out where to put the remote oiler on the cabinet.
Neil

Today was getting the table top cleaned up. After getting the rust off of it, went and got it plow ground flat again to a minimum amount. There was about 0.25mm of wear and you can see an area that almost cleaned up. I asked to have that left as a witness to the minimum being removed. The recessed area is now the same depth all around instead of being a bit uneven, so very happy that worked out well. I was thinking that it would need to be recut or resurfaced as well. So got very lucky there. Now onto getting the pressed steel sides repaired where it has rusted away in places. The front rail with the fine adjustment has teeth missing, so will look for something to replace it with.

I found out today, that these saws were made from 1958, through to sometime in 1962. They were made for a little less than 4 years in total, with no known spares being available. Most that I have seen have been left outside to rot away.

Originally Posted by Lightbulb

...They were made for a little less than 4 years in total, with no known spares being available...

I heard that when Tanner stopped trading (2000ish) the Power Tool Centre in Whangarei acquired all the spare parts. I don't know if the Whangarei PTC still exists, and if they do it's doubtful they'd still have parts for a saw that went out of production in 1962. But it might be worth asking.

Cheers, Vann.