Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 131
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Thanks Gaza - that groove is as below:

    20200415_075652_resized.jpg

    I've had a bit of success before work this morning. I've gained about 1.5cm. I tightened the clamps and heard a crack. It was low going bit by bit.

    20200415_075635_resized.jpg

    The post sticking out of the top is longer then the post sticking out the bottom and with the slow moving process have flipped it all around as suggested by auscab (Rob). I've also stripped rust off the post at the bottom in the hope it'll have a better run going up through the cast iron sleeve.

    20200415_081616_resized.jpg

    These clamps are not bad but are showing a few signs of strain. I am using a hollow pipe around the turn handles to get more leverage so I don't hurt my office hands but in the process slightly bending the handles!

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Well thankfully pushing the post up and out went smooth with little signs of hesitation - on inspection it was rusted in placed fairly badly - I am wondering if this machine spent a bit of time in direct contact to rain as water may have penetrated between the post and the sleeve with little ventilation to dry out in a hurry - hence the rust.

    20200415_130435_resized.jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    439

    Default

    Nice one Charlie........Get some Evaporust from Super Cheap...It's dear as but very effective.... you might be surprised how well it comes back. As it's not a part that is in constant motion, a little bit of pitting may not hinder its use. I would imagine that getting another one made wouldn't be cheap... unless you have access to a machine shop.
    Gaza

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    Well thankfully pushing the post up and out went smooth...
    That's great.

    Each time I got notification of another post on this thread, I wondered if it would be one asking if nickel welding or brazing the arm back on would be better .

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    ...I am wondering if this machine spent a bit of time in direct contact to rain...
    Usually Wadkins are well put together and easy to take apart. But of course with a machine this old (going by the tag, either early 1920s or ~1934) it's usually been apart a few times over the years, and unless the threads were lubricated or it's been kept dry...

    Keep up the good work.

    Oh, and I love the really solid look of that top wheel. I bet that weighs lot more than mine.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Gaza - a fair bit of pitting but won't in anyway hinder it's function. I've seen Evaporust or equivalent in some videos and wonder if it'll work on really heavily rusted stuff like these guides:

    20200414_061312_resized_1.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Vann, I wasn't comfortable whacking things with a hammer. The jury-rigged press worked well in the end and the only casualty were the sash clamps but nothing serious.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    BTW - the top wheel bearing has the following stamped in it:

    R & M
    4.5 9.7
    NLJI
    ½

    20200415_205811_resized.jpg

    Does this mean the bearings have been replaced at some stage by this UK mob: R&M Bearings : About Us ?

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    Does this mean the bearings have been replaced at some stage by this UK mob: R&M Bearings : About Us ?
    Since they were established in 1983 I would say Yes.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    Gaza - a fair bit of pitting but won't in anyway hinder it's function. I've seen Evaporust or equivalent in some videos and wonder if it'll work on really heavily rusted stuff like these guides:

    Here is a bolt off my mortiser.
    Bolt- Evaporust.jpg
    This was way more corroded that what you have ... It just takes way more time than what they say.
    Be careful of other so called equivalents to Evaporust as most of them use various sorts of Acids that attack everything... where as Evaporust use chelates that only attack the Rust leaving all the good iron/steel behind.
    The way I work with it is let it have a good soak... maybe even a week and then go over the parts with a wire brush and repeat as long as is required.. Light surface rust can be removed in hours. Make sure the container has a lid as it will both evaporate and go smelly. The good thing is it can be reused over and over. It's also a safe compound so not detrimental to your skin like acid based products. I also use electrolysis for cast parts as that works well on them as well.
    Gaza

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Awesome! Will definitely get some of that - can you re-use it? OR do you need it fresh for every use?

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    Awesome! Will definitely get some of that - can you re-use it? OR do you need it fresh for every use?
    Yes mate you can reuse it.... it will gradually loose it's get up and go but I just keep topping it up.... one thing that I would recommend though is to degrease everything any oils and grease tend to firstly slow the cleaning process and secondly it forms a sludge in the bottom of your tank.... Check out Keith Rucker's tank in this video.
    YouTube

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Good score, I really like the old stuff. I was really gutted recently because I missed a DH bandsaw. I said id buy it as soon as I saw the advert. The guy said some one was coming to look at it. Of coarse they bought it.
    I've used evaporust a bit also. I think its really good for machined surfaces that you don't want to attack with something abrasive. One thing I have noticed is its really good if you plan on blackening the part.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Wallace, it's a funny game we play. You can miss out by 5 mins, 1hr or 1 day. Right place right time!

    I had a go at cleaning up the tabletop this afternoon, I only had 1hr so perhaps my expectations are a bit high in how it came up. It's a two person lift so was a bit of a mission to move it around. I had an interesting approach to getting it off it's trunnion mount, anyway my clean up was:

    1. Hit it with a wire brush
    2. Hit it with a paint\rust stripper pad thingy - I kept a low angle in using this as I can see how it could make some swirl marks
    3. Hit it again with a wire brush - this blackened it a little, like it burnished it
    4. Hit it with 120 grit sand paper
    5. Hit it with 400 grit sand paper

    When the surface is a bit rubbish is there a better way to get it all cleaned up? The surface has come up OK but all the low spots is still dark.

    20200419_150834_resized.jpg 20200419_150854_resized.jpg 20200419_142628_resized.jpg 20200419_150912_resized.jpg

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    ...is there a better way to get it all cleaned up? The surface has come up OK but all the low spots is still dark.
    You could try Evaporust soaked paper towels - but I wouldn't bother trying to get it much brighter. Remember, the higher you polish it, the more the dark low spots will stand out. You've got the rust sorted. Now to keep it under control - maybe with oil or wax paste.

    What are your plans for paint? Leave as is/repaint close to original/repaint your favourite colour?

    I like this...
    DN 154.jpg

    Only my 1926 Wadkin RB buzzer (RB 116) has that (stamped on the infeed table).
    RB 116.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    619

    Default

    Good idea with the paper towels. I did buy Renaissance micro-crystalline wax many moons ago as I read it was the ducks nuts for protection, I've used it on some hand planes which seems to be going well. I think people mentioned applying it twice a year to mitigate surface rust. I'll probably look at apply this stuff. Apparently museums use it for preservation of stuff.

    RenaisaanceWax.jpg

    Colour - well I know I may go against the grain regarding some purest thinking to stick to original colour BUT I just can't do it. Machine green, grey or baby blue does nothing to accentuate the curves of old machines in my mind.

    I like the Hot Pink Bruce Kenneth used on he's Wadkin PK but it's probably a little too radical: https://www.instagram.com/p/BzGJ_w3AE9G/

    Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 7.15.51 pm.jpg Screen Shot 2020-04-19 at 7.16.10 pm.jpg

    Andrew Hill ([email protected] (@andrew_w_hills) • Instagram photos and videos) also does some really good restores using a teal with white on various mortisers and saws which looks really good too.

    I came across Shane Whitlock's Enterprise Manufacturing Co. bandsaw restoration and was instantly in love. I really liked the colour - turquoise (or aqua?) made the curves pop. The black looks really good too.

    BandsawRestoration.jpg

    I had my dad buy some industrial paints from he's guy up on the Sunshine Coast (I think he's in Nambour) in white (~$30), black (~$30) & turquoise (~$45) + a top grade enamel thinner (apparently makes a difference vs the cheap stuff). Still undecided if I will use the turquoise & white colour scheme or the turquoise & black?

    20200419_195723_resized.jpg 20200419_195810_resized.jpg 20200419_195652_resized.jpg

    Just got to get a better quality spray gun as I am an amateur and will need all the help I can get! I figured once I get me a Wadkin PK and MF it's a colour I'd like to stick to and have a workshop with matching machinery ... yup probably a little anal-retentive!

Page 2 of 9 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Restoring an early Silver bandsaw sold by Mcphersons
    By tony_A in forum ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE MACHINERY
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 4th June 2020, 11:16 PM
  2. Early Wadkin Band saw development DR
    By jgforsberg in forum ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE MACHINERY
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 10th November 2016, 09:39 AM
  3. Help to restore Stanley 78 from around 1900s
    By nicked74 in forum ANTIQUE AND COLLECTABLE TOOLS
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 19th August 2015, 11:38 PM
  4. Delta Homecraft bandsaw restore
    By johnnyrsa in forum ANTIQUE AND COLLECTABLE TOOLS
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12th June 2015, 01:25 PM
  5. Timber Jinker early 1900s
    By nine fingers in forum SCALE MODELLING
    Replies: 43
    Last Post: 19th March 2014, 06:22 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •