Thread: Wadkin DN Bandsaw Restore - Early 1900s

I got into a bit of wire brushing & cleaned up the guides. The rust wasn't too but those round parts where not easy getting them lose to take it all apart!

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The wire wheel cleaned everything up fairly well - there are corners I just couldn't get into so will put it all into Evapo-rust

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These guides are stiff as in they don't turn freely. I am unable to turn the knurled wheels. Within each knurled wheel was a little plug bolt and inside where you see the threaded section is grease. I think I know how these guides go together but perhaps someone can confirm so I can best figure out how to pull it apart?

- The knurled wheel is held on with a grub screw - I've been able to undo the grub scree but unable to turn off the knurled wheel off the thread you see - this is probably somewhat seized on. I'll try and tackle this when I have more time, any tips on removing it without damaging it with multi-grips let me know?

- That threaded pipe I assume goes through and housing & should turn & therefor adjust the guide in or out?


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I am looking at making up a mobile base for this saw as everything else I have is on wheels so moving stuff when/if I need to is a cinch. Given this saw is probably about 800kg in chatting to Jack Forsberg, what thickness plywood would you suggest and is the angle iron below thick enough? The idea comes from Shane Whitlock's 100 year old 36 inch Crescent Machine Co restoration.



It's relatively simple in the parts I'll need as below:

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.15.43 am.jpg

This is the basic design:

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.15.29 am.jpg

Looking at what Shane used it looks like perhaps 2 x 19mm plywood? Specs of he's saw is here: Enterprise Manufacturing Co. Band Saw Restoration Complete. He's saw is 1315kg which is about 400-500kg more than mine.

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.12.44 am.jpg

I am looking at making up a mobile base for this saw as everything else I have is on wheels so moving stuff when/if I need to is a cinch. Given this saw is probably about 800kg in chatting to Jack Forsberg, what thickness plywood would you suggest and is the angle iron below thick enough? The idea comes from Shane Whitlock's 100 year old 36 inch Crescent Machine Co restoration.



It's relatively simple in the parts I'll need as below:

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.15.43 am.jpg

This is the basic design:

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.15.29 am.jpg

Looking at what Shane used it looks like perhaps 2 x 19mm plywood? Specs of he's saw is here: Enterprise Manufacturing Co. Band Saw Restoration Complete. He's saw is 1315kg which is about 400-500kg more than mine.

Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 8.12.44 am.jpg

Double post (I did a triple one recently, when my smartphone kept telling me the post had failed - but it hadn't ).

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...what thickness plywood would you suggest and is the angle iron below thick enough?..

I think your angle is too light. Having worked in rail for far too long, I tend to over design (but better over than under). I'd be looking at a minimum of 50 x 50 - up to 75 x 75mm angle - with a thickness of 10 or even 12mm.

I wonder about the ply. Consider just putting steel in the right places - or put additional steel support across the frame to prevent the ply sagging in the middle.

Of course, I'm sitting here, hundreds of miles away, trying to get a feel for the mass involved. You're on the spot and in a better position to judge just how much OTT my suggestions are.

Edit: it sure looks like Whitlock's saw is on a base of about the dimension you suggested.

Cheers, Vann.

Thats exactly the feedback I need Vann I have no prior experience & haven't actually gone through any calculations, there calcs if I Google it but engineering maths is not my strength but doesn't look hard to learn it. Looking at Shane's build visually it doesn't even look like he's gone overboard BUT would hate to poor in money and time to build something thats too flimsy and regret not spending more money to beef it up.

I take your points in strength and bracing I was concerned about sagging. When I look at pricing for 65 x 65 x 10 for example + some flat bar for the centre bracing it'll shoot up the costs significantly: http://(https://www.scottmetals.com.au/angle)

The other alternative is to make a ladder frame out of rectangle tubing (Scott Metals - Products: Galvanised RHS & SHS Tube: Steel Supplies, Steel Fabrication, Building Products, Steel Products, Stair Stringers, Steel Posts and Beams, Steel Prices, Brisbane Steel Supplies, Brisbane Steel Fabrication, Reinforcing Supplies Brisbane, Roofing Supplies Brisbane.) depending on the tubing, probably 50 x 25 (3mm thick). I can make some cross sections (4) where the foot bolt holes go. This will mitigate sagging and provide overall better rigidity. Not 100% about the motor but want to elevate it and get it closer to the pulley that drives the bottom wheel. That way it's not sticking out the back of the saw on the base and increasing the overall length as that would just take up way to much workshop floor space which I just don't have.

What I am trying to do is find a balance in it not sitting too high off the ground (given the 3" castor wheels and the frame construction) but should be able keep hight down a fair bit in making up the castor wheel housing which will be welded to the frame if that makes sense. For me the saw straight on the ground is a bit low as I am a touch over 6ft so it sitting a smig higher is not a bad thing. I think Shane is a short guy (from what I can tell in he's videos) he's saw sits relatively high for he's hight in my opinion / personal preference.

I’d be fitting it on two bearers and get a pallet jack . All my machines are like this . For one you only have to buy the one set of wheels , the ones in the pallet jack . The pallet jack in my workshop lives under an untouched Robinson Thicknesser still sitting on a pallet . They hide easily that way . The machines sitting on bearers and stable and safe . Some castors have some give and your heavy stuff could move a little because of that . Top heavy things on wheels can tip more easy compared to a pallet jack . And pallet jacks are great and helping get things off a trailer if you have ramps .

Rob

If everything is on casters already then it’s probably to late . Pallet jacks are great

Did a double post somehow ??

I intend to do metal and in some cases metal and concrete fixed to machine stands one day. Ones that the Pallet jack can fit under .

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I would be a bit concerned about the plywood as well..if you have to have it on wheels I would go box section and have the casters on brackets out the sides to keep the centre of gravity lower.. I think I saw a YouTube guy make something like that awhile ago. You just need to make sure the wheels have clearance to swing 360 deg and for the weight you are trying to support I am thinking the mounting brackets will need bracing. Keep in mind three wheels are better than four and I would still use the wind down supports of or when it’s in place.
i think once you add width to accomodate the motor etc it will not be so top heavy.
my thoughts anyway.
Gaza

Excuse my rough sketch
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hope your construction is way better than my iPad finger drawing

If I used plywood it would have to be hardwood and I would make it three layers thick (screwed and glued) so overall thickness would be around 48mm - 50mm depending on the original thickness.

Regards
Paul

Thanks all - the castors would only be in contact with the ground for when it gets moved. The rest of the time it'll be on self levelling feet adjust by a turn wheel using parts as below. I could even put one in the middle for additional load bearing support and stability. This does however mean all that load would be going on 4-6 feet. I found a video on YouTube where a guy used ice hockey pucks to use as robber feet, I could attached the M16 rods to these somehow.

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This is Shane's home made jack screws:

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By creating a base I would effectively be increasing the machines foot print by a lot so the theory is it should actually be more stable then if it had no base at all. Also with self levelling feet I can cater for my uneven shed floor.

Undecided about the plywood. I came across a good length of C-channel beam on FB Marketplace for mega cheap which I could have actually made the frame out of but was already sold. This makes me think that this might be the way to go as it'll be ultra strong and could put some bracing to make a ladder style frame. It would provide some really good surface area to weld the wheel housing onto too.

Does this give you any ideas?

Adjustable wheels.jpg

Substitute 100mm x 50mm RHS for the three timber pieces.

Regards
Paul

It does, I've looked a various permutations of these systems but nothing simple or easy enough to engineer out of steel for a heavy duty solution and to lift a 800kg machine up off the ground on to castors.

I do like what ol'mate has done for he's bench in the below video which I'll possibly use for my roubo bench.