Thread: Wadkin DN Bandsaw Restore - Early 1900s

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

It does, I've looked a various permutations of these systems but nothing simple or easy enough to engineer out of steel for a heavy duty solution and to lift a 800kg machine up off the ground on to castors.

I do like what ol'mate has done for he's bench in the below video which I'll possibly use for my roubo bench.

I like that too. Better than the one I posted.

I am guessing that you are concerned you cannot lift even one side of an 800Kg machine.

So how about using a small automotive trolley jack for the lift.

Hydraulic trolley jack.jpg

This one was just over $55 plus freight and was about the first one I saw, but I think you could pick up something second hand for a lot less. Maybe even new for a lot less

2 Ton Hydraulic Trolley Floor Jack Car Dual Pump Quick Lifting NEW | eBay

A metal ( angle iron or RHS ) or substantial timber frame around the foot of the machine will suffice and be a permanent base and very stable as the wheels will not be in ground contact when not required. Just make sure the wheels are load rated appropriately.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...I do like what ol'mate has done for he's bench in the below video which I'll possibly use for my roubo bench...

The way those bungy cords work is very clever.

But I think you should reconsider this suggestion:

Originally Posted by auscab

I’d be fitting it on two bearers and get a pallet jack . All my machines are like this . For one you only have to buy the one set of wheels , the ones in the pallet jack...

It sounds a whole lot simpler.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

The way those bungy cords work is very clever.

But I think you should reconsider this suggestion:
It sounds a whole lot simpler.

Cheers, Vann.

Vann

The pallet jack is a very good option. The jacks start at less than $300 on Ebay, and although shipping can be an issue Charlie is in a city so it will not be too expensive or even local pick up could be a possibility. The beauty of your suggestion is that two bearers under each machine (100mm x 100mm ?) and one pallet jack serves them all. Difficult to go past that really. My suggestion would really only be more practical if a single machine was being considered.

Regards
Paul

I've got to give it a bit of thought. By far the most stable solution is for it to sit on bearers. I've got a pallet jack I bought for $100 second hand. It's paid for itself as I've used it for moving 4 x 500kg+ saws already

The pallet jack advantages are:
- Cheap (the actual costs of it + no need to buy castors for each machine)
- Its efficient - I can pump the hydraulics and have a machine in the air in 5sec. Self levelling feet would take me 5mins+ to adjust them to set a moved saw up, not a deal breaker I have time and am just a guy with a hobby.
- It's got a handle to hang on to for manoeuvring and don't need to fight a machine by handling it from the table top or elsewhere
- Bearers will make a very stable base, hardwood posts are cheap to buy at Bunnings

The pallet jack disadvantages are:
- Size of pallet jack is bulky, it needs room to move. I only have a double shed. If I have two or three machines lined up next to each other I have to to move the first machine out of the way to get to the others if wanting to move them. IF they are on swivelling castors I can just lower it onto the castors and pull it directly out any which way.
- Two x fixed wheels on fork - not a big deal as the back wheel can turn to a 90° but still a bit of ginning around to manoeuvre.
- 4 x bearers aren't going to look great (personal preference)
- Metal on metal - I had a small scare (on a hill - my driveway) when a wheel hit a bark chip and came to a stop, the saw took a short little slide on the forks.
- The forks are a set width - hasn't been a major issue as the saws have spanned the gap in the middle. I do have a small Wolfenden saw which I can't use the jack on as the base is too narrow.

You have one already ! That’s a good start . I have the same problem of some machines not fitting the span of the bearers and it’s a bit more playing around getting it to work . Most of my machines are still on loose bearers . My small bandsaw is in fixed ones that don’t fit the PJ . What I did for one of My EQ moulders is I made a custom pallet that matches the base of the machine . It’s a good neat way of doing it .

This is a little custom pallet I did for for the EQ . I need 80mm for the PJ to fit under. Its just a quick nailed up thing but steel and a ply top would work .

IMG_9454.JPGIMG_9456.JPGIMG_9457.JPG

And this is a motor mount I did for a lathe. Just a bit of cutting drilling and welding . I was going to add a screw to hold it at the right tension but the weight of the motor was good enough.

IMG_0609.jpg

Rob

Thanks Rob, I don't have any real welding experience worth notting but my father does. Finding a flat belt pulley will pose an issue. I think I'll stick with the current 3 x V-groove pulley for the immediate future. I do like the thinking around an adjustable tensioner. I've not thought that far ahead however but does sound appealing.

This was never going to be easy. At every step I seem to have a challenge on my hands. Everything thats connected to some sort of a shaft is seized on! This pulley is about 270mm in diameter. Not sure if I can jury rig a gear puller to get this off ?!?!?!

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And then there is this mammoth square nut thats also stuck!

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I sympathise with the puller. I lack one and had to leave both bandsaw wheels on their shafts.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...And then there is this mammoth square nut thats also stuck!

20200426_113137_resized.jpg

That should be an easy job. Penetrating oil on the thread for a couple of days (looks like you may have applied some to the front of the nut, but the back looks dry). Then some heat on the nut, a big spanner, and use the wheel for leverage...

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks Vann - thats exactly what I did once it gave way I could use my fingers to screw off. I also managed to to get the pulley ³/₄ of the way off by using some F-clamps that lucky where able to fit into the right position and act as a gear puller .. sort of! I ran out of time but hope to squeeze in 30mins tomorrow to hopefully remove the shaft/bearings which means I am left with a completely stripped frame ready for prepping.

I've pulled the pulley & freewheel pulley off and thats about as far as I'll go in stripping it down.

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There is this wax paper gasket between the hub and where the freewheel spins. It's looking fairly buggered - anyone know what this stuff is and if you can get it anywhere?

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There is still this assembly that holds the shaft. I doubt I'll be able to get it out so will leave it on if I don't need to remove it, which I don't think I do.

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I can't see that I can pull this shaft out...

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... but if i pull this bearing apart I should be able to get it out through the hole on the right hand side.

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I'm curious to know, can I replace these self aligning bearings with sealed bearings? They don't seem to show wear BUT would be a heap cleaner and wouldn't ever have to worry about greasing again

I found out what that paper gasket is called also - Its 'Oil Jointing General Purpose Gasket Paper' it's cheap as chips per 1m².

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

I'm curious to know, can I replace these self aligning bearings with sealed bearings? They don't seem to show wear...

You could most likely get away with sealed bearings. Even if they were ever so slightly out of alignment - with the amount of use you'll give it (I'm assuming it's for recreational use) they would probably outlive you. Personally, I'd look for self-aligning (but then I'm a bit anal sometimes ).

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...would be a heap cleaner and wouldn't ever have to worry about greasing again...

The grease in sealed bearings is said to be good for 20 years.

I don't have a problem with open bearings - I think regularly maintaining machines is a good habit to get into - except in electric motors where old grease is expelled into the windings.

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks Vann, given that the bearings don't seem to be worn I may keep them. It does help to keep stuff from any sort of corossion (not I would expose this saw to the kind of abuse its seen in a past life).

Do machines just take general purpose automotive grease?