Thread: Wadkin DN Bandsaw Restore - Early 1900s

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...I am on a relatively steep driveway so dropped it onto wood blocks and got a pallet jack trolley under it to ease it down the driveway. It took me and the truck driver to hold on to the pallet jack trolley and take one step at a time to get it down to the garage. I had no plan B - it all worked out in the end...

I too have a sloped driveway. As I had to lay the thing over to get it into the garage anyway, I made a frame to rest it on, then used the car to retard it.

aPr4.jpg Unloading at the top of the drive.

aPr5.jpg Restraining its descent with the car (10m from previous photo).

aPr7.jpg Outside the garage (a further 50m).

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...I unfortunately couldn't get all the bolts undone with three (on the same side) snapping off. Shouldn't be to hard to drill out and clean out the threads I hope...

Go easy on breaking off bolts. Sometimes it's better/easier to wait a few weeks while penetrating oil soaks in (re-applied daily) than to have to drill out broken bolts . Heat can help too.

Cheers, Vann.

Bolts into Cast Iron shouldn’t really be a problem.
Go to Bunnies and buy a can of Reducteur H-72.
It wicks in and does a chemical reaction to seperate the steel bolt from the cast iron.
Ive also put a few pictures of some advertising info on Wadkin sold here in the 30s by Austral the local distributor. These I’ve copied from a post I made on the Canadian Forum.
Also some from an early Wadkin cattle dog which I’ll dig out and see if there’s more detail.
Please don’t wreck or throw out the fast and loose pulleys on that saw.
I may be interested down the track having something like this to run on my lineshaft and I don’t think you really need 4 big bandsaws do you.
H.

Originally Posted by clear out

...Please don’t wreck or throw out the fast and loose pulleys on that saw...

Hah. You're not the first to enquire about those pulleys. But I only want dimensions...


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Hmmm. I'm not sure that I'm "profiting" (more like "fiddling") . But then I'm not Australian...

Originally Posted by clear out

...Also some from an early Wadkin cattle dog which I’ll dig out and see if there’s more detail...

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Wow. This is probably the earliest reference I've seen to Wadkin's RB surface planer. If you've got any more detail on that machine I'd be most interested.

Cheers, Vann.

Vann, I should have used your same trick as it would have been a lot safer to stuff down my driveway BUT ended up being OK to man handle a 800kg object down the slope.

Thanks clear_out - I was thinking it would be awesome to convert this to a flat belt - will see if I actually land on that or keep the existing v-belt thats on there now. I have a McPherson which is flat belt driven and can't go past the look! Thanks for the hot tip regarding the Reducteur H-72, I went down to Bunnings to get some this afternoon.

This saw is proving to be hard work every step of the way. The top assembly which mounts the wheel to the C-frame is being super stubborn. I struggled with it for about 30mins this afternoon. There are two guiding pins. One has popped out on the left hand side. The other looks to be staying embedded into the casting of the C-frame!

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This side (left) is now free with the guide pin pulled out of the C-frame casting.

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I've managed to get a wrecking bar into the gap and lift this slightly up off the casting. BUT am being very gentle. The corner closest in this picture (right hand side) has almost pulled through on the actual assembly and is tightly snug and not shifting out of the cast iron C-frame.

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Perhaps I try heat, as suggested - see if I can make it move either from the top assembly or from the C-frame.

I managed to get the top assembly off with surprising ease this morning before work - it was doused in Reducteur H-72 (thanks again clear_out).

On to my next challenge - getting the guide support post out! This is rusty - very rusty! The saw was standing under a carport 100m from salt water in Victoria Point with a view to Coochiemudlo Island! I am not 100% sure how long it's been there but my guess is 'a long time'. To give you an idea on how rusty this is see the guides below:

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I've tried hitting this from the top and bottom with a hammer but there is no signs of it budging.

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Not sure if you can see inside the fastener hole but there looks to be something in there that clamps into the 'V' of the post - I am not sure if that would be stuck (rusted in place) or if the whole column is just seized with rust?

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This entire area I would guess would be too hard to heat up with a blow torch. I am hesitant in hitting it with a bigger hammer (sledge hammer) as thats a lot of force on the 'C' frame and not keen to take the risk of the cast iron cracking. I have thought about removing the table top and propping a piece of wood between the top of the 'C' and where the table top mounts. This will ensure less flexing when hitting the post BUT puts the pressure point right at the post surround where it clamps on.

Any ideas how I can remove this?

Hi Charlie . Be careful getting bigger hammers in these situations . You want to think of cast iron like it’s as strong as chocolate or wax compared to the other materials in these machines . It doesn’t take much for a break to occur . First you want to get any part clean from rust that has to slide out . If a tap with a hammer on wood or a wooden mallet won’t move it then pressing it out is best . Get a block of wood that matches the length the bar is sticking out and place it to the left of the bar , and bridge it with another decent piece of wood to the bar end and place a clamp on it to give constant pressure to the bar end . With it clean and oiled up it just needs to move a little at first . A tap on the end while under pressure may do it .
The thing in the hole will be something to stop the screw to hold the bar from marking it . It could be brass and have a protruding V to match the V in the bar ? It should just fall out if the saw was tilted . You not going to do that for it , just saying . It’ll be loose though I think .

Rob

What Auscab said, about cast iron breaking.

I'd get emery cloth on the protruding ends of the bar. Sand until all protruding rust is gone. Inox/reducteur into the hole and around the top. A day or two for it to soak in. And I think I'd attempt to heat the end of the arm to help loosen the grip on the day.

Cheers, Vann.

Will give it a go - the problem with Reducteur is it seems to evaporate.

Rob I did try to press it out BUT am going to need to do it properly as you suggested and get an equal press happening on both sides of a bridge.

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OK... I feel like I am running out of options ... I am not sure how much pressure I have going with these three sash clamps BUT would guess a decent amount.



My father suggested a rag soaked in diesel and wrapping it around the shaft so it keeps wet with lubrication for a couple of days then trying again - pressure, heat. I think this is going to be the pain of my existence!

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That’s a decent amount of pressure with three clamps . Does it have the space to come out going down ? Or will you have to remove the table ? One thing on all bandsaws, the bracket that holds and tilts the table , I forget it’s name , they are one weak point in all saws . It’s not uncommon to see them broken . Not that your giving it any miss treatment but I’m just saying . Another thing is some saws have a sleeve in that the bar your trying to get out runs in . Some are poured Babbitt or lead , around the shaft . I have a saw here with a hexagonal bar which runs in such a surrounding . Heating such a thing could make it take off on you obviously . I can see an inner ring in yours . Have you scratched that to see what it is ? Being dissimilar material means it’s less likely to get stuck I would think ?? .

Rob

One trick that you could try is to fill the screw hole with some heavy oil or grease and then screw the bolt in. This may force the lub to enter the rusted area and start to release the shaft. Heating it while under pressure may help.

Maybe try it with the Reducteur first to loosen the rust. Try to remove the plug in the bottom of the screw hole if you can.

That would be the trunnion that allows for the table top to be adjusted. Apart from carefully standing on the table top I am very conscious of any damage or anything hitting it and chipping or cracking the casting.

As far as I can see there is no babbitt or lead. The raised bit is just part of the casted sleeve for the post. I think it's purely just rusted itself to the sleeve. Given the lack of air flow (and therefor moisture exposure) in around the post/sleeve I am surprised it's that tight.

I may try to push it up rather than down and see if that has any effect.

Bohdan, I was thinking that - I bought a bolt extractor kit which I may use to fish out the insert in the bolt hole. BUT if I squirt a bit of thin oil down that 'V' in the post some oil runs out the bottom so it does look like a little bit of oil is getting through, just not where I need it to go thou.

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I think you will need a lot of heat on the frame itself and then apply the pressure with the clamps. I found that I had to get the cast a dull red before I could get the shafts on my mortiser to budge.
Whats the groove in the shaft look like? I am thinking the thing down the hole is some sort of gibb like device to clamp the shaft and therefore would normally be loose when the clamp is loosened off.
Gaza