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Thread: Wadkin DR 30"

  1. #31
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    So you know Pt Franklin and Toora then. Lots of holidays there as kids, my Dad had friends and family all the way along the coast at all the fishing towns.

    Nice part of the country.

    Have fun,
    Alli

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allison74 View Post
    So you know Pt Franklin and Toora then. Lots of holidays there as kids, my Dad had friends and family all the way along the coast at all the fishing towns.

    Nice part of the country.

    Have fun,
    Alli
    Yeah its a nice out of the way place .
    Always was. A hard to get to place except by boat for a long time.
    Mostly quiet except for the flocks of Galahs or Corellas sometimes.


    Rob

  4. #33
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    Great work there Rob, nice to see it all commimg together.
    I remember first seeing it with you at the scrap yard, what a transformation!!
    Melbourne Matty.

  5. #34
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    Doing a bit more .
    I'm either using this wire wheel or smaller ones on the angle grinder. A Great tool but you have to take care , their dangerous buggers .
    IMG_6630.jpgIMG_6630a.jpg

    Cleaning the under side of the table with Oil and Turps , giving it a scrub with steel wool and buffing dry.

    And a picture of the way engineers set out for drilling holes when they have to go precisely where they want them . It was described to me a few years ago, Very interesting . If any one doesn't know .
    If I got it right, They do a center mark and four around the outside of where they want the hole . When they start drilling sometimes the drill can shift off center at the start. Its not until the drills sides are in the hole that it keeps going straight . The four perimeter marks show this if its happening and it can be corrected before going to deep. You can see how the hole did shift to the right a little by these marks. Correcting the direction was done with a sharp cold chisel I was told , a little cut in the right spot made the drill head back in the right direction.

    IMG_6636.jpgIMG_6637.jpg

    Getting stuck into the rusty top first with an aggressive wire brush on the grinder, Then I sprayed the top with a Water mix with a little Ammonia and a touch of Metho . Just water would probably been fine I think, its just what I had in the bottle . Then I gave it a good Air powered random Orbital sand with a 320 grit while wet . It worked pretty good . Ill give it a wax as the last treatment


    IMG_6639.jpgIMG_6640 (1).jpg

    Rob

  6. #35
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    Default Some questions

    Any one know if there is more understanding of this type of Machine Number and test Number ? It doesn't match the dating stuff on Marks website .

    IMG_2322.jpg

    Any good ideas for new guides? I'm pretty sure I'm going to braze some tungsten used spiral cutter blades onto either angle iron or steel blocks and try that . If no better ideas come along .

    IMG_6696.JPGIMG_6697.JPG

    Whats a good solution for the table hole ? Does Wadkin recomend a piece of wood ? like they did for guides.
    I know Lead ones are done on some band saws. Brass or Bronze would be nice . Maybe a Brass covered piece of Plywood? i Have some that's around 5mm Thick. Its annealed soft stuff .

    IMG_6698.JPG

    Rob

  7. #36
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    Almost Complete.
    I'm really glad The block and tackle is above . Those doors have been one of the biggest pain in the butt, in the way, awkward things to move around and get around the last four years. Lifting them and bringing the band saw up to them to fit them on made it pretty simple . Hard with only one guy otherwise.

    After the work on the back where I touched up rusty bits with paint then coated with clear, I was staring at it and thinking maybe that's a bit over done . No one would ever notice but I was thinking it looked a little over done . So I decided to just sand the doors with water to level off the flaky paint and smooth the rust , then clear coat that . I sanded on the table , fitted them then coated. Its the Survivor look I want . I could always touch up the missing paint later if I didn't like it I thought.

    IMG_6658.JPG IMG_6660.JPG

    IMG_6686.JPG IMG_6687.JPG IMG_6688.JPG

    Always looked forward to this part.
    I probably would have grabbed a small brush to do it but I saw Jack do this a few days ago with a rag on a stick.
    I need to refine the first attempt a bit , Had a little to much paint on the dabber .Not anywhere near the experience Jack has at this .

    IMG_6689.jpgIMG_6690.JPGIMG_6691.JPGIMG_6692.JPG


    One of the first things I noticed about Wadkin when I first started watching on line was the blade guide set up on these.
    Ive had some toys Ive had to fiddle with compared to the look of these. Looking forward to setting them up and trying them out.

    IMG_6693.JPGIMG_6694.JPGIMG_6696.JPG

    The doors coated up . Hows the surface on the top door ! It has a hand planed timber look about it, slight undulations . No idea what could have done that on a steel sheet ? Maybe an English wheel ?? But why ?

    IMG_6710a.jpgIMG_6710b.jpg


    IMG_6703.JPG

    From this .
    $_57.JPG To this IMG_6710.JPG

    Rob

  8. #37
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    Ive slowly been making guides for running a 34mm blade . I Find the Wadkin LQ is a great machine for milling metal ,Im just amazed at what this allows to be made. I started just using wood router cutters and It eats mild steel like its made of chalk . So I cut this out of some Square Hollow section tube . I partially cut and folded the little flap out then welded the open cut back up . That's a great little trick a mate told me about . He saw a guy installing a steel handrail on a stair case do it on a building site one day . It gives a very fine accurate bend.
    I then mounted it in the LQ and milled the slot and dressed the bent flaps three surfaces square and true. I remembered that another mate gave me a box of end mills years ago and they come in all sorts of graduations which is much better than router bits. So Ive been using them and sorting getting new collets for some of those as well.
    Then I brazed some Tungsten carbide used thicknesser spiral head blades to the mild steel . The blade slides on this hard as hell stuff if it deflects . Its going be good I think . I know a professional wood processor who uses these. I got two done then ran out of gas. New gas came yesterday though , I have six more to do.

    IMG_6762.JPGIMG_6763.JPGIMG_6765.JPGIMG_6766.jpg




    For the hole in the band saw table I glued 5mm of brass to Birch ply and turned it in the Hercus 9 " Lathe . It was glued to more ply with a slip of paper in between and a rebate was turned in the wood at the back as well where it needed to sit in the hole. The paper lets it snap off when the turning is finished . Giving it a clean bottom which didn't need to be cut off.
    The 34 mm blades came today . So I got to cut the blade slot as well.


    IMG_6794.JPGIMG_6858.JPGIMG_6859.JPG

    Rob

  9. #38
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    I like the table insert, you did remember to angle the underside of the insert. I forgot once and ruined a blade when I tilted the table.

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    I like the table insert, you did remember to angle the underside of the insert. I forgot once and ruined a blade when I tilted the table.
    I remembered to angle the underside of the new (hardwood) insert in the table of my Preston bandsaw. However, when I demonstrated the tilt feature to a friend recently I noticed the blade being twisted too - so it needs more work .

    And I intend to use the tilt for the first time tomorrow.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #40
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    No I didn't think of that with this insert. I suppose because Ive never needed to tilt a band saw table. I better go see if I want to do it under this insert or I may rough up a wooden one and try it on that first . I was thinking of the need for another, mainly for the smaller blade. I do have to tilt the fence to Mark the degree graduations on the quadrant table mount bracket as well but Id probably have the inset out for that.

    In the last few years I have seen some YouTube vids where I think they used the saw tilted , either for bowls or a bird feeder , I forget . And somewhere the tilt was needed . I Wouldn't mind trying that out .
    Rob

  12. #41
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    Rob, you really have to stop all this. My poor DR is going to run away from home to find a better owner!!
    I like the guide modifications, a good solution that allows you to really exploit the top end of the DR's range.

    I use tilt on the bandsaw when I'm doing coopered parts that curve along the length as well as across the width. You can do it on the table saw but it is a little less stressful on the bandsaw for anything with a more pronounced curve. A lot less intimidating than a 16" blade at full height and unguarded.

    If you suddenly find another bedraggled DR in your workshop asking for a makeover send it back home please.(of course after you clean it up)

    Have fun,
    Alli

  13. #42
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    I was quite upset when I realised the blade was catching the guides and when I looked there was a nice little kink in it. It was a nice new £35 blade as well. I think I still have it, I thought I could send it back to the supplier and get him to remove the damaged bit and re braze it.

  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allison74 View Post
    I use tilt on the bandsaw when I'm doing coopered parts that curve along the length as well as across the width. You can do it on the table saw but it is a little less stressful on the bandsaw for anything with a more pronounced curve. A lot less intimidating than a 16" blade at full height and unguarded.



    Have fun,
    Alli
    I suppose working on Boats there is hardly a straight line Alli .
    A bit like acoustic guitars same thing .

    Ill Keep an eye out for your DR ,

  15. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    I was quite upset when I realised the blade was catching the guides and when I looked there was a nice little kink in it. It was a nice new £35 blade as well. I think I still have it, I thought I could send it back to the supplier and get him to remove the damaged bit and re braze it.
    What size is it Mark ? a 9.5mm ?
    The 34mm I just got has some spring in it !!
    The guy who posted them put them in a box , each blade was folded into six rings ! I don't know how they do that .
    Bldy thing went off like a mouse trap opening it up ! luckily they fit a protective plastic strip over the teeth to save me from myself ..

    Rob

  16. #45
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    I think it was a big one for re sawing 27mm bi-metal cobalt jobby

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