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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Default Wadkin LA bench drill restoration

    The paints barely dry on my last one and I've started another. I had no intention of doing this one yet but after using it a bit I noticed the bearings squealing like a stuffed pig so it has jumped the que. So while checking out the bearings I thought I may as well make it look pretty. This is how I got it a while back after a 13hr road trip because the seller wouldn't put it on a pallet for a courier.





    This one dates from 1952 and was made for the aircraft industry to do high precision drilling of non ferrous stuff. Its a shame its last place of work had been using it as a router. Poor thing only has 0.5hp in it











    The motor is mounted with 4 wheels, one wheel is fixed position the other three are mounted with eccentric shafts to make adjustments for wear and to maintain the vertical position





    Just to make sure I put them where I found them.





    Me thinks someone has been in here before me, this doesn't look very wadkin'sh





    Butchered spanner to get the nut off





    It was well greased if nothing else



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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
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    68
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    2,808

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    This one dates from 1952 ...

    Thanks Wallace, added to the "Wadkinitus" thread.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    uk
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    Default

    There seems to be quite a few asset tags on this. Can anyone make out what it says at the top of the sticker, Looks like BA Ltd?





    I quite like these isolators. This ones in rough shape inside the ceramic is cracked and loose. There doesn't appear to have been any provision for a on/off switch you just use the isolator.





    Because they are made from cast ali you cant really use anything too aggressive like a wire wheel. Otherwise you'd loose the writing. A little paint stripper an a stiff brush.








    When taking the tags off that are pinned I have learnt that its best to protect the tag from drill slippage. These pins were made of hardanium because it took ages to drill them. Even new HSS jobbers would barely touch them. After reducing the head I had to coal chisel the head off.



  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
    Age
    66
    Posts
    10,766

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    Can anyone make out what it says at the top of the sticker, Looks like BA Ltd?
    Looks like "8 A.C. Ltd" to me, not that it makes sense to me though
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
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    Default










    Made some bits shiny








    More shiny stuff





    I wonder why the cable feeding the motor does not have an earth wire within it, instead it has wire wrapped around and attached on the clamp that holds the cable. The clamps have brass bolts.





    derusted some more stuff





    A few bits are numbered



  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
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    456

    Default

    A little more progress, this is the fence that came with the drill. Weird thing is the T-bolt doesn't fit the slot in the table.





    I started removing some paint and noticed that the fence looked to be made from brass.





    Then I started cleaning up the edge on the bobbin sander and realised the dust was grey, I could have sworn it was brass. It had a yellow hue on the bare metal.





    The table looked to be in decent condition.





    After cleaning it showed some weird damage








    I needed something to run the new wires through and found this in my junk box





    All cleaned up and shiny





    I've been using some of that metal filler that I used on the mitre saw for filling casting defects. I like it a lot better than normal car bodge. It goes on easier and only needs one attempt at filling.



  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
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    I didn't put any updates of spraying up, didn't want to bore you's. One thing I'm not happy with is the paint sheen, theres one guy who mixes what I want perfect and one he always bodges it.























    I quite liked the finish on the fulcrum castings so have left them bare and used boeshield





    I had to make some 'T' bolts and found these handles in my stash, I think their off a RM planer





    When I took the motor to bits I changed the top bearing and left the lower one because I was worried about damaging things so I cleaned the other bearing and re greased. After trying it for a bit their is quite a bit of resonance. It doesn't squeal like it did but I may have to change the bottom bearing if things don't run in.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    1,813

    Default

    Really great restoration. You got any plans for future restorations? Been loving all your threads.

  10. #9
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    Sep 2012
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    uk
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    Default

    Thanks, I've nearly finished an RS for a guy but I never had time to do a thread on it. I might be starting a JTA in the new year

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
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    Default

    Nice, if you go forward with it I'd love to see pics!

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