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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    Looking very special Vann!!
    Thanks Rob. I'm still not sure about the red handwheels - but your recessor has set the bar very high...

    LQ Rob.jpg Previous owners eh!

    I was looking at the paint on the main cast frame of my LP again this week. I don't think I can get the over-paint off while leaving the original paint in any sort of passable condition. It's most likely going to be a full repaint - but I'll give it one more assessment next time I have time. I've also got around two dozen bolt and screw holes to fill with bog (bondi/bondo/filler).

    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Looking good Vann !!
    Thanks Matty. Which raises the question: how's your LP progressing? I believe it's all painted up, and the table's repaired. Have you caught up with all the fire damage?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Port Sorell, Tasmania
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    592

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    Looking good Vann. Always satisfying finishing stuff and putting it back together.
    This will be a fantastic old machine when you have it running again, would love something similar.
    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    uk
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    Looking good Vann, I checked the speed of my motor and its 2850, the pulley is 12cm high and 7.5cm diameter

  5. #49
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    Sep 2008
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    Default Table Raise Mechanism (again)

    The final part of the table raise/lower mechanism is the column itself.

    aLP 52.jpg The column about to come out - mid-August.

    It's now been de-gunged, de-rusted and repainted.

    aLP 74.jpg aLP 75.jpg repainted. Right: rack refitted.

    The rack engages with the pinion within the handwheel assembly.

    aLP 76.jpg aLP 71.jpg

    So that's now also ready for reassembly - once I've tidied and righted the main frame of the machine.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
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    825

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post


    Thanks Matty. Which raises the question: how's your LP progressing? I believe it's all painted up, and the table's repaired. Have you caught up with all the fire damage?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Vann your right on, it's all painted, broken table is welded, and new bearings ready to go in. I'm snookered for space at the moment Vann, but that will change in a few months, and who knows, l might even get it out for some more comparison pics for you..
    Melbourne Matty.

  7. #51
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    Sep 2008
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    Default Tool Holding

    According to the literature I’ve been able to track down, the LP came with a 4MT taper in the bottom end of the spindle. The only tooling that came with mine is a Jacobs chuck with a 2MT taper, in an adaptor.

    I want to be able to hold router bits, and following discussion with Auscab, I decided to buy a collet chuck set for bit holding. Auscab uses a collet chuck in his LQ recessor.


    Before I hit the ‘buy now’ on a 4MT collet chuck, I ran my very-near over the adaptor, which I assumed was a 4MT – 2MT adaptor. However, a 4MT taper is approx. 31mm (1.231” = 31.267) max. diameter, while my adaptor is ~33mm at the fat end. I can only assume that the 4MT was damaged or worn, and the spindle was bored out to a non-standard size to fix the problem.

    After consulting my machinist, we decided a second adaptor is required – this time with a 3MT female. He’s making one up for me. I ordered a 3MT ER-32 collet chuck with a full set of collets.

    So I’ll have two adaptors; 2MT and 3MT. I doubt an adaptor for 4MT would be viable as it’s walls would be under 1mm thick. I don’t have any 4MT drills or chucks so I probably won’t miss 4MT – time will tell.

    For those unfamiliar with ER collets (as I was until a few months ago) they each accept a shaft from the rated size, down to a max. of 1mm smaller. So a 13mm collet will take from 13mm down to 12mm (perfect for a ½” shaft router bit). ER-32 collets range from 3mm to 20mm so the 18 collets cover every size shaft from 20mm down to 2mm diameter.

    The chuck and collets arrived during the week.

    LP 77.jpg

    It's just a cheap set, but should do for what I need.

    Wadkin use a shortened Morse taper, so I'll need to shorten the taper on that chuck.


    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #52
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    uk
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    That's what I plan on doing, is it secured by the original grub screw

  9. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    ...is it secured by the original grub screw
    The adaptor is secured by the grub screw. I guess that leaves the 2MT/3MT reliant on the Morse taper. I guess I could attempt to secure the 2MT/3MT fittings to the adaptors via a second grub screw (or similar), but I'm not going there unless there's a problem.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #54
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    Sep 2008
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    Default Paint.

    The machine has been on it's side since early September.

    LP 61.jpg

    Last weekend I wrestled the counterweight back in and connected it both ends (with less hassle than it took to get it out).

    I gave up my internal struggle and decided the original paint could not be saved - too many chips and redundant bolt holes, and no hope hope of easily removing the coat of paint on top of the original coat. So while it was on it's side I bogged and sanded and primed...

    LP 79.jpg

    ...then a coat of enamel, especially in the area of the cast "Wadkin" lettering. Finally, this morning I picked out the lettering in red - figuring it was much easier to do while the machine is on it's side.

    LP 80.jpg It still needs a bit of filler to the left of "Wadkin".

    Tomorrow my son is coming to help me get it back upright again. Then I'll be able to tackle the other side (which doesn't have "Wadkin" lettering).

    The colour is the darker grey that I used on my Wadkin RB buzzer - which is almost exactly the colour both machines were originally painted (in 1925 and 1926).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #55
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    Default Drive Options - pt.2.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I believe the LP was originally designed as a line-belt driven machine. For this it has fast and loose pulleys, with the fast pulley coupled to a larger pulley with drives the separate 1¾" flat-belt which drives the spindle, via the two idler pulleys (the latter flat-belt is shown in the illustration below).

    aLP-10.jpg

    The fast and loose pulleys are 6" diameter and 2¼" wide - driven at 900 r.p.m. Maximum 2 horsepower required. The striking gear for the fast and loose pulleys is operated from the front, via a shaft on the left-hand side of the machine.

    The concept of an electrically driven model was proposed with a motor replacing the fast and loose pulleys. This concept apparently came to fruition, as it is illustrated in Matty's cattledog.

    aLP-3.jpg aLP-12.jpg

    The pulley on the motor is 10" diameter and 2¼" wide, and the 2 hp motor turns at 950 r.p.m.

    Later still the motor is moved to the top of the machine, necessitating a number of minor changes to the main frame casting.

    aLP-13.jpg

    I believe this 2 hp motor runs at 2800 r.p.m.

    It would appear that my machine (despite having a motor at the top) was originally flat-belt driven...
    Looking carefully at the rear of my LP I see that the hole for the shaft for the loose and fast pulleys has been machined, and the set screw fitted, adding weight to my belief that this machine was originally flat-belt (line-shaft) driven. I even went and bought a length of 20 x 20mm steel bar to make a replacement shifter.

    LP 81.jpg

    However, a closer read of the Test Sheet indicates that when the test was carried out the machine had a Parkinson 2 B.H.P. motor.

    LP 83.jpg

    Presumably this Parkinson 2 hp motor, located at ground level like this...

    LP 82.jpg

    Hmmm. I see a diversion coming up. I wonder how difficult it would be to made up a pair of idler pullies?
    Cheers, Vann.
    Last edited by Vann; 4th November 2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Illustrations reattached within quote
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #56
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    Dec 2010
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    Melbourne, Australia.
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    Hi Vann, your not going to top mount your motor ?
    Melbourne Matty.

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.S.Barker1970 View Post
    Hi Vann, your not going to top mount your motor ?
    I don't know the answer to that yet. Lets say I'm keeping my options open. The motor is on the floor in my garage ATM so I shifted it next to the LP for that photo (showing how it was 93 years ago).

    It's a big heavy motor, and I'm not looking forward to lifting it back up top.

    I've de-rusted and painted the bracket that supports the motor up high (including freeing the hinge and rounding corners, etc.), but at this stage I've adapted it so it can take the original 950rpm motor, or a more modern 2850 rpm motor (which would need a 3" diameter pulley). The thinking being that maybe I'll eventually put a pair of idler pulleys up there and the original motor back on the floor.

    Another consideration is that older motors (and this one is 93 years old) don't like VFDs - and I've bought a VFD for this machine. Auscab tells me the original spindle speeds of 2000 and 4000 rpm work well on his LQ, so I won't need the VFD (however I suspect the narrow 10" pulley currently on the original motor, will only allow one speed while top mounted).

    Yet another thought is to eventually fit loose and fast pulleys at ground level...

    All muddled thinking really - in fact this is just a diversion as I avoid the last few hurdles needed to complete my RB buzzer .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #58
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    Sep 2008
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    I’'ve hit a problem with the final coat of enamel. I've used up the last of my litre of paint and bought another can, but the manufacturer has changed the formulation and hence the sheen. This is how the machine looked this morning. The top arm has the new paint, the rest one coat of the old paint. The higher gloss shows every defect and brush stroke.

    LP 86.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...I've de-rusted and painted the bracket that supports the motor up high (including freeing the hinge and rounding corners, etc.), but at this stage I've adapted it so it can take the original 950rpm motor, or a more modern 2850 rpm motor (which would need a 3" diameter pulley). The thinking being that maybe I'll eventually put a pair of idler pulleys up there and the original motor back on the floor...
    LP 87.jpg LP 85.jpg
    I'm not sure what that arrow is about?

    I utilised the components that a previous owner had used to top mount the motor. All the parts were de-rusted, the corners rounded, then repainted. I mixed some red paint with some black to get that 'red oxide' look (the result being some of the most horrible paint I've ever applied - but that doesn't matter as it's 'temporary'). First the mounting bracket.

    LP 88.jpg LP 89.jpg

    Then the pivot plate (pivoting to tension the flat belt).

    LP 91.jpg LP 90.jpg LP 92.jpg

    Look at these massive knurled knobs! Although this looks like a backyard modification, some of the engineering is quite good.

    LP 93.jpg

    Then the motor mount.

    LP 94.jpg LP 95.jpg

    And finally the motor.

    LP 96.jpg LP 97.jpg

    Personally, I think this whole motor mounting set-up looks like a pig. I can't wait until I can get around to fitting 90 degree pulleys.

    The motor mounting plate came with the motor - so from a different source. Unlike the other non-OEM components, this was a mess. It was marked out well enough, but then folded crooked, and at about 95 degrees (note the wooden wedge behind the motor, forcing it closer to 90 degrees). It took a lot of grinding of the slots to get it to slide up and down nearly vertically (instead of diagonally).

    The slots will allow vertical adjustment to help with belt tracking.

    This arrangement is very different to the Wadkin method of motor mounting.

    aLP-13.jpg

    Wadkin altered the main casting to enable the motor to be mounted on a shaft, and included a handwheel to adjust the shaft in or out as required, to tension the flat belt.

    The new motor is a New Zealand made Betts GMF 2-pole, 2860rpm, 2-hp motor - it's a LOT lighter than the original 6 pole, 2-hp motor. It's the same speed as the top mounted motor in the diagram above, meaning I now need a much smaller (but longer) pulley than the 10" diameter pulley fitted on the original motor.

    Now to find a pulley ø3" and 4¾" long.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #59
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Now to find a pulley ø3" and 4¾" long.
    I have a bit of 6mm plate (correct thickness for the pulley bottom flange), but finding some 76 OD pipe/tube to fabricate the pulley from is a problem. 75mm pipe is the nominal ID. I did find a short piece that might have been suitable, but it is thin walled and heavily scaled on the outside. It would probably cause excessive wear to any flat belt (and is too thin to machine smooth).

    Then I had a brainwave. In another thread I mentioned I'd been to look at some very rusty radio alarm saws. I bought one for parts (it was so rusty I'm still fighting to get some parts apart).

    CK1.jpg CK 1011 of 1949.

    Taking a closer look at that arm, where it goes into the casting at the column end...

    CKwallace.jpg Photo of Wallace's CK.

    Yup, exactly ø3" and a little over 4¾" long - and complete with flange.

    LP 98.jpg Photo of the arm off CK 1011 - ex my scrap pile.

    I now have the makings of a (temporary) pulley for the LP.

    LP 99.jpg Pin holes filled with braze.

    I sure wish I had a metal lathe. The next step might take a few weeks until I get someone to turn the flange down for me.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  16. #60
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    Default Spindle Arrangement.

    Quote Originally Posted by LS Barker in private correspondence
    ...if you can take a heap of pics of your disassembled shaft and bearings that would be great...
    I thought I might post the photos here (to maybe also help the next guy to take one of these apart).

    Firstly, I haven't quite got the whole thing apart yet. At the top end of the spindle housing are two bearings that go inside the stepped pulley. One bearing is still stuck on the machine...

    LP 104.jpg

    ...the other is stuck inside the stepped pulley.

    At the bottom of the spindle: the bearing goes on the shaft, then the nut goes on top and locks the inner race in place (not quite ready to reassemble yet - so 'exploded' pikkies shown).

    LP 102.jpg LP 101.jpg

    The spindle shaft then goes up inside the spindle sleeve and the bottom plate goes on to lock the outer race in place (dammit, where did I put those three little bolts ).

    LP 103.jpg

    whole assembly is then passed up through the head of the machine, and through the stepped pulley. The stepped pulley rotates the spindle shaft by means of a square key fixed in the pulley, but able to slide in a keyway in the spindle - allowing the spindle to slide up and down (actuated by foot pedal or handle).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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