Results 46 to 60 of 121
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13th September 2018, 11:34 AM #46
Thanks Rob. I'm still not sure about the red handwheels - but your recessor has set the bar very high...
LQ Rob.jpg Previous owners eh!
I was looking at the paint on the main cast frame of my LP again this week. I don't think I can get the over-paint off while leaving the original paint in any sort of passable condition. It's most likely going to be a full repaint - but I'll give it one more assessment next time I have time. I've also got around two dozen bolt and screw holes to fill with bog (bondi/bondo/filler).
Thanks Matty. Which raises the question: how's your LP progressing? I believe it's all painted up, and the table's repaired. Have you caught up with all the fire damage?
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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13th September 2018, 03:42 PM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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Looking good Vann. Always satisfying finishing stuff and putting it back together.
This will be a fantastic old machine when you have it running again, would love something similar.
TonyYou can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde
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14th September 2018, 07:31 PM #48SENIOR MEMBER
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Looking good Vann, I checked the speed of my motor and its 2850, the pulley is 12cm high and 7.5cm diameter
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17th September 2018, 10:14 AM #49
Table Raise Mechanism (again)
The final part of the table raise/lower mechanism is the column itself.
aLP 52.jpg The column about to come out - mid-August.
It's now been de-gunged, de-rusted and repainted.
aLP 74.jpg aLP 75.jpg repainted. Right: rack refitted.
The rack engages with the pinion within the handwheel assembly.
aLP 76.jpg aLP 71.jpg
So that's now also ready for reassembly - once I've tidied and righted the main frame of the machine.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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17th September 2018, 02:36 PM #50
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14th October 2018, 11:48 AM #51
Tool Holding
According to the literature I’ve been able to track down, the LP came with a 4MT taper in the bottom end of the spindle. The only tooling that came with mine is a Jacobs chuck with a 2MT taper, in an adaptor.
I want to be able to hold router bits, and following discussion with Auscab, I decided to buy a collet chuck set for bit holding. Auscab uses a collet chuck in his LQ recessor.
Before I hit the ‘buy now’ on a 4MT collet chuck, I ran my very-near over the adaptor, which I assumed was a 4MT – 2MT adaptor. However, a 4MT taper is approx. 31mm (1.231” = 31.267) max. diameter, while my adaptor is ~33mm at the fat end. I can only assume that the 4MT was damaged or worn, and the spindle was bored out to a non-standard size to fix the problem.
After consulting my machinist, we decided a second adaptor is required – this time with a 3MT female. He’s making one up for me. I ordered a 3MT ER-32 collet chuck with a full set of collets.
So I’ll have two adaptors; 2MT and 3MT. I doubt an adaptor for 4MT would be viable as it’s walls would be under 1mm thick. I don’t have any 4MT drills or chucks so I probably won’t miss 4MT – time will tell.
For those unfamiliar with ER collets (as I was until a few months ago) they each accept a shaft from the rated size, down to a max. of 1mm smaller. So a 13mm collet will take from 13mm down to 12mm (perfect for a ½” shaft router bit). ER-32 collets range from 3mm to 20mm so the 18 collets cover every size shaft from 20mm down to 2mm diameter.
The chuck and collets arrived during the week.
LP 77.jpg
It's just a cheap set, but should do for what I need.
Wadkin use a shortened Morse taper, so I'll need to shorten the taper on that chuck.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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15th October 2018, 03:02 AM #52SENIOR MEMBER
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That's what I plan on doing, is it secured by the original grub screw
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15th October 2018, 12:46 PM #53
The adaptor is secured by the grub screw. I guess that leaves the 2MT/3MT reliant on the Morse taper. I guess I could attempt to secure the 2MT/3MT fittings to the adaptors via a second grub screw (or similar), but I'm not going there unless there's a problem.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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2nd November 2018, 10:30 PM #54
Paint.
The machine has been on it's side since early September.
LP 61.jpg
Last weekend I wrestled the counterweight back in and connected it both ends (with less hassle than it took to get it out).
I gave up my internal struggle and decided the original paint could not be saved - too many chips and redundant bolt holes, and no hope hope of easily removing the coat of paint on top of the original coat. So while it was on it's side I bogged and sanded and primed...
LP 79.jpg
...then a coat of enamel, especially in the area of the cast "Wadkin" lettering. Finally, this morning I picked out the lettering in red - figuring it was much easier to do while the machine is on it's side.
LP 80.jpg It still needs a bit of filler to the left of "Wadkin".
Tomorrow my son is coming to help me get it back upright again. Then I'll be able to tackle the other side (which doesn't have "Wadkin" lettering).
The colour is the darker grey that I used on my Wadkin RB buzzer - which is almost exactly the colour both machines were originally painted (in 1925 and 1926).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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4th November 2018, 02:48 PM #55
Drive Options - pt.2.
Looking carefully at the rear of my LP I see that the hole for the shaft for the loose and fast pulleys has been machined, and the set screw fitted, adding weight to my belief that this machine was originally flat-belt (line-shaft) driven. I even went and bought a length of 20 x 20mm steel bar to make a replacement shifter.
LP 81.jpg
However, a closer read of the Test Sheet indicates that when the test was carried out the machine had a Parkinson 2 B.H.P. motor.
LP 83.jpg
Presumably this Parkinson 2 hp motor, located at ground level like this...
LP 82.jpg
Hmmm. I see a diversion coming up. I wonder how difficult it would be to made up a pair of idler pullies?
Cheers, Vann.Last edited by Vann; 4th November 2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Illustrations reattached within quote
Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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4th November 2018, 09:21 PM #56
Hi Vann, your not going to top mount your motor ?
Melbourne Matty.
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5th November 2018, 12:18 AM #57
I don't know the answer to that yet. Lets say I'm keeping my options open. The motor is on the floor in my garage ATM so I shifted it next to the LP for that photo (showing how it was 93 years ago).
It's a big heavy motor, and I'm not looking forward to lifting it back up top.
I've de-rusted and painted the bracket that supports the motor up high (including freeing the hinge and rounding corners, etc.), but at this stage I've adapted it so it can take the original 950rpm motor, or a more modern 2850 rpm motor (which would need a 3" diameter pulley). The thinking being that maybe I'll eventually put a pair of idler pulleys up there and the original motor back on the floor.
Another consideration is that older motors (and this one is 93 years old) don't like VFDs - and I've bought a VFD for this machine. Auscab tells me the original spindle speeds of 2000 and 4000 rpm work well on his LQ, so I won't need the VFD (however I suspect the narrow 10" pulley currently on the original motor, will only allow one speed while top mounted).
Yet another thought is to eventually fit loose and fast pulleys at ground level...
All muddled thinking really - in fact this is just a diversion as I avoid the last few hurdles needed to complete my RB buzzer .
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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30th November 2018, 07:44 PM #58
I’'ve hit a problem with the final coat of enamel. I've used up the last of my litre of paint and bought another can, but the manufacturer has changed the formulation and hence the sheen. This is how the machine looked this morning. The top arm has the new paint, the rest one coat of the old paint. The higher gloss shows every defect and brush stroke.
LP 86.jpg
LP 87.jpg LP 85.jpg
I'm not sure what that arrow is about?
I utilised the components that a previous owner had used to top mount the motor. All the parts were de-rusted, the corners rounded, then repainted. I mixed some red paint with some black to get that 'red oxide' look (the result being some of the most horrible paint I've ever applied - but that doesn't matter as it's 'temporary'). First the mounting bracket.
LP 88.jpg LP 89.jpg
Then the pivot plate (pivoting to tension the flat belt).
LP 91.jpg LP 90.jpg LP 92.jpg
Look at these massive knurled knobs! Although this looks like a backyard modification, some of the engineering is quite good.
LP 93.jpg
Then the motor mount.
LP 94.jpg LP 95.jpg
And finally the motor.
LP 96.jpg LP 97.jpg
Personally, I think this whole motor mounting set-up looks like a pig. I can't wait until I can get around to fitting 90 degree pulleys.
The motor mounting plate came with the motor - so from a different source. Unlike the other non-OEM components, this was a mess. It was marked out well enough, but then folded crooked, and at about 95 degrees (note the wooden wedge behind the motor, forcing it closer to 90 degrees). It took a lot of grinding of the slots to get it to slide up and down nearly vertically (instead of diagonally).
The slots will allow vertical adjustment to help with belt tracking.
This arrangement is very different to the Wadkin method of motor mounting.
aLP-13.jpg
Wadkin altered the main casting to enable the motor to be mounted on a shaft, and included a handwheel to adjust the shaft in or out as required, to tension the flat belt.
The new motor is a New Zealand made Betts GMF 2-pole, 2860rpm, 2-hp motor - it's a LOT lighter than the original 6 pole, 2-hp motor. It's the same speed as the top mounted motor in the diagram above, meaning I now need a much smaller (but longer) pulley than the 10" diameter pulley fitted on the original motor.
Now to find a pulley ø3" and 4¾" long.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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2nd December 2018, 07:58 PM #59
I have a bit of 6mm plate (correct thickness for the pulley bottom flange), but finding some 76 OD pipe/tube to fabricate the pulley from is a problem. 75mm pipe is the nominal ID. I did find a short piece that might have been suitable, but it is thin walled and heavily scaled on the outside. It would probably cause excessive wear to any flat belt (and is too thin to machine smooth).
Then I had a brainwave. In another thread I mentioned I'd been to look at some very rusty radio alarm saws. I bought one for parts (it was so rusty I'm still fighting to get some parts apart).
CK1.jpg CK 1011 of 1949.
Taking a closer look at that arm, where it goes into the casting at the column end...
CKwallace.jpg Photo of Wallace's CK.
Yup, exactly ø3" and a little over 4¾" long - and complete with flange.
LP 98.jpg Photo of the arm off CK 1011 - ex my scrap pile.
I now have the makings of a (temporary) pulley for the LP.
LP 99.jpg Pin holes filled with braze.
I sure wish I had a metal lathe. The next step might take a few weeks until I get someone to turn the flange down for me.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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9th December 2018, 04:42 PM #60
Spindle Arrangement.
Originally Posted by LS Barker in private correspondence
Firstly, I haven't quite got the whole thing apart yet. At the top end of the spindle housing are two bearings that go inside the stepped pulley. One bearing is still stuck on the machine...
LP 104.jpg
...the other is stuck inside the stepped pulley.
At the bottom of the spindle: the bearing goes on the shaft, then the nut goes on top and locks the inner race in place (not quite ready to reassemble yet - so 'exploded' pikkies shown).
LP 102.jpg LP 101.jpg
The spindle shaft then goes up inside the spindle sleeve and the bottom plate goes on to lock the outer race in place (dammit, where did I put those three little bolts ).
LP 103.jpg
whole assembly is then passed up through the head of the machine, and through the stepped pulley. The stepped pulley rotates the spindle shaft by means of a square key fixed in the pulley, but able to slide in a keyway in the spindle - allowing the spindle to slide up and down (actuated by foot pedal or handle).
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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