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  1. #76
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    Default Some More Progress.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Tomorrow, time and weather permitting, I hope to put on a first coat of dark grey enamel. I also hope to get the table column back into the main frame...
    Success!

    This is how it looked when I threw open the garage/workshop door this morning.

    LP 118.jpg Foot pedal pivot area was primed yesterday afternoon.

    There was a little surface rust to remove (after being in storage so long). Then a coating of oil on both the bore and the column and, Bob's your uncle, it looked like this.

    LP 119.jpg Column in place.

    A little more surface rust removed and a coating of grease on the mating surfaces, and I fitted the raise/lower handwheel assembly, and the little 'U' casting immediately above.

    LP 120.jpg Note the spindle. I had a trial fitting to make sure I can actually fit it in (just!).

    LP 121.jpg Note: surface rust also removed from buzzer table in background.

    The bolts for the 'U' casting were neatly stored in a zip-lock bag, all ready to go back in. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the two bolts that secure the handwheel assembly . I've had to use two temporary ring-ins (that are ~1/4" short).

    The column winds up and down freely - beautiful .

    So tomorrow, time and weather permitting, I want to check out the top end. I need to get the spindle in before I can progress the table any further. However I'm expecting less spare time and deteriorating weather...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

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  3. #77
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.1

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...So tomorrow, time and weather permitting, I want to check out the top end. I need to get the spindle in before I can progress the table any further. However I'm expecting less spare time and deteriorating weather.
    The weather failed to deteriorate, and I got some time in. I didn't expect to make any progress today - just to figure out the next step.

    But when I dug out this photo (from 2018), I realised I had all the info (and parts) I needed to proceed.

    aLP 60.jpg

    First thing was to place the bearing housing bottom plate over the spindle. It didn't fit! I'd painted the internal diameter of the bottom plate. So after a bit of scraping and sanding I was able to fit it.

    LP 122.jpg LP 123.jpg

    Next was the new ball bearing. Some heat to expand the inner race, and it seated just nicely.

    LP 124.jpg LP 125.jpg

    Once the inner race cooled I attempted to force grease into the bearing. I probably should have done that first, but thought the heat would have melted it all back out. Then the bearing lock nut.

    LP 126.jpg

    The next step was to fit the bearing housing. I left it in the sun for about 30 minutes, in the hope it would expand a little, then lowered it over the spindle and straight over the bearing.

    LP 127.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    ...The bolts for the 'U' casting were neatly stored in a zip-lock bag, all ready to go back in. Unfortunately I can't say the same for the two bolts that secure the handwheel assembly . I've had to use two temporary ring-ins...
    Likewise, I couldn't find the three 1/4" BSW bolts to hold the bottom plate to the bearing housing - that single brass set screw is also a ring-in.

    What I did find...

    LP 128.jpg
    ...is the bag with the missing bolts for the handwheel assembly .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  4. #78
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.2

    Next job was to install the spindle assembly.

    It went is easily (after yesterday's dry run), but there were no spare hands to take photos until the two pivot bolts, through the yoke, were in.

    LP 133.jpg

    After that I could fit the spindle raise/lower mechanism. The alternative spindle raise/lower mechanism to the foot pedal. First I had to find (and cut to length) a new taper pin, for that hole through the gear wheel boss at the bottom of these photos.

    LP 129.jpg LP 130.jpg Amazing how different angles and lighting can change the dark grey to light grey or blue.

    LP 132.jpg Fitted !! I think that new grease nipple might protrude too far.

    In summary (and in Summery weather ) today the machine went from this...

    LP 120.jpg

    ...to this.

    LP 131.jpg

    Tomorrow (again weather and time permitting) it's back to working on the table - and a second coat of grey enamel on the foot pedal boss.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  5. #79
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.3.

    The next part of the table could now be fitted. That's the 'transverse motion" ('Y' motion) section. I pulled it out of storage, removed some minor surface rust and applied a coating of oil, then I offered it up to the front of the column tee and slid it on.

    LP 134.jpg

    That went well.

    The ball lever handle (below) is to lock the slide. There are two more hex bolts (and a stop) on the other side. The two brass set screws are to replace two missing bolts. In fact there should be 6 hex bolts between this side and the other. The four remaining bolts have three different head sizes - for some reason these bolts get a hiding, or get lost, needing replacement - I munted one myself getting the machine apart.

    I adjusted the gibs and tightened the retaining plates.

    LP 135.jpg

    Leaving it just free enough to slide to the front, and to the back.

    LP 136.jpg < Forward and back >. LP 137.jpg

    That handwheel is for 'longitudinal motion' ('X' motion).
    It took me ages to find those two collars - they were hiding in with my RB buzzer parts .

    So then to install the long shaft with the thread that controls 'transverse movement'. This shaft is inserted from the back, through the hollow shaft until the end pops out the handwheel end, and the smaller handwheel is then attached.

    LP 138.jpg

    This is where it all started to go wrong . To get the long shaft in the back I had to slide the table all the way forward. So far forward it needed to come right back off the slide. Undo the retaining plates; remove the stop; slide it all off. Slide the long shaft part way in; slide the table back on; re-insert the stop; tighten the retaining plates. Attempt to push the long shaft home...

    Nope .

    See that collar to the right of the gear? The collar won't fit under the longitudinal slide to it's right .

    LP 139.jpg

    So: undo the retaining plates; remove the stop; slide it all off. Slide the long shaft out; remove the collar. Position the long shaft with it's LH end just under the longitudinal slide. Lower the collar into the gap; push the shaft through the collar; push the shaft ALL the way in (remembering to position the collar such that I can insert it's retaining screw). Then slide the table back on AGAIN; re-insert the stop AGAIN; and tighten the retaining plates AGAIN.

    Wallace, Matty, are you paying attention? This could be you when you reassemble your LP recessors .

    So in the end it all came together, and it travels beautifully (although a little tight towards the back end).

    LP 140.jpg

    LP 141.jpg

    I really do need a nice horn handle on that transverse motion handwheel - it's a pain to use the rim to turn it (and that temporary brass bolt ain't much better).

    The next thing to do is to fit the table itself. That will be a week or two away as, although I've had the table surface ground...

    aLP21.jpg < Before and after >. LP 110.jpg

    ...the underside and edges are still in the old paint. I've now got to strip it and repaint (and I go back to work tomorrow ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
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    314

    Default

    Cracking job, mine is just about ready to start assembly, did you remember to screw on the locking lever for the traverse enough so it will tighten with half a turn. I think I have a horn handle you can have. I was tempted to get my table reground but It is really rough. Someone got so bored they decided to drill all the way through into the ways. I might have a secondary table ground to bolt on top

  7. #81
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    Default

    That's looking very nice Vann !!

    Rob

  8. #82
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.4

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    Cracking job...
    Quote Originally Posted by auscab
    That's looking very nice Vann !!
    Thanks gentlemen.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    ...did you remember to screw on the locking lever for the traverse enough so it will tighten with half a turn...
    I did remember to check that. When I did I found it had just the right number of turns (and I've just been out to check it's still right after been put back on for the third time!). There's only 180 degrees that locking lever can turn, and it tightens up just nicely at about 85 degrees.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    ...I think I have a horn handle you can have...
    To be honest, any suitable Wadkin handle would be appreciated. Horn would be great.

    Yesterday morning I set the table up outside and removed the rack (and good idea in my o-pinion ).

    LP 142a.jpg Pre a dust off and paint removal.

    I used paint stripper to remove all the old paint from the underside, then washed it off with running water and a couple of sizes of wire brush. Same for the outside edge (three sides - the forth side in machined).

    By mid afternoon it was all dry and ready for primer.

    LP 143a.jpg Primed.

    This afternoon it got a first coat of enamel.

    LP 144a.jpg First enamel.

    I'll leave that to harden for two days, then clean all the paint off machines surfaces, before applying a final coat of enamel.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    ...I was tempted to get my table reground but It is really rough. Someone got so bored they decided to drill all the way through into the ways...
    While mine has it's share of careless pockmarks and through-holes, one thing I find very un-Wadkin-like is this tapped hole (for tie-down clamps) that almost missed the rib in the table. Being in line with the other holes, it was obviously done at the Wadkin factory.

    LP 145.jpg

    And this second hole was so close to the side it eventually burst. It was clean iron before I primed it.

    LP 146.jpg

    Someone on the Canadian site commented recently that Wadkin had completely missed the raised strengthening bosses when drilling and tapping the table on his machine.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  9. #83
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.5.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The next thing to do is to fit the table itself. That will be a week or two away as, although I've had the table surface ground......the underside and edges are still in the old paint. I've now got to strip it and repaint.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    ...This afternoon it got a first coat of enamel.

    I'll leave that to harden for two days, then clean all the paint off machines surfaces, before applying a final coat of enamel..
    It's not often I get to stick to schedule, but I got it cleaned up. Then on Thursday I applied a second coat of enamel.

    My philosophy on finish is very different to wallace. He does a beautiful job. I don't have the patience (nor somewhere suitable to spray). To me, paint is to protect surfaces against rust, and usually to brighten up the machine. If I achieved a finish like wallace achieves, I'd cry every time I chipped the paint.

    So I brush paint, and often I get brush marks - that doesn't effect the overall look (and I'm counting on a coating of wood dust to hide the imperfections when I get visitors...).

    After a coat of enamel is applied, there's always some paint on machined surfaces.

    LP 147.jpg

    Looking closely at the bottom LH corner, you can see the paint on the boss and on the machined ways.

    LP 148.jpg

    First I use a scraper to remove the bulk of thicker paint.

    LP 149.jpg

    Then I use emery cloth around a flat block of wood, with WD40 as a lubricant, to remove the remaining paint. I use the wooden block to keep the emery cloth flat and to avoid dubbing the edges. I use WD40, not because of any magical properties, but because it's a cheap, convenient, non-water based lubricant for the emery cloth. It works a treat - rapidly removing remaining paint.

    LP 150.jpg

    Then wipe off the resulting gunge and any WD40 that's run down on to the fresh paint.

    LP 151.jpg

    Done !

    Now to reattach the rack and fit the table.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  10. #84
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.6

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Now to reattach the rack and fit the table.
    I reattached the rack and, with the help of my daughter, carried the table to the machine and slid it on (with just a small fight). It took a bit to tighten the gib as the locking nut on the central adjusting bolt is VERY difficult to access - but I got there in the end. Lots of grease on threads and oil on ways of course.

    View with table fully up, fully forward, and fully left.

    LP 152.jpg

    View with table fully down, fully back, and fully right.

    LP 153.jpg

    According to the cattledog, that's 7" up & down; 9" back & forth; and 25" left & right.

    That tag is not from this machine - it's off an old RS - and doesn't quite fit (hence just one screw).

    In my rathole I have a very old solid chisel mortiser. Like this recessor it's table has X, Y, and Z movement. It's stiff in every movement (seized in one IIRC). This table is beautiful to move - it just glides (now that tons of dried grease and sawdust have been removed - along with a little rust).

    The square bar is to be screwed to the front of the table (when I can find the machine screws ). It's for the longitudinal stops. The round bar goes under the table on the LH side. It's for the transverse stops (which are the two collars next to it).

    LP 154.jpg

    I could swear the parts for this machine have a roster to decide which ones are going to go missing each week. I had the tag two months ago - but can't find it now. The machine screws for that bar were here last week - this week they too are in hiding .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

  11. #85
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
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    Default

    Guess who put the bronze nut that attaches to the back on the inside of the casting, I'd put masking tape over the machined area for spraying and forgot to take it off so didn't notice where the nut was supposed to go. I then assembled the rest of the table. Took me ages how to work out how to get it off and in the correct place without having to disassemble every thing.

  12. #86
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    Default And Some More Progress - Pt.7

    I knew wallace would complete his LP before I completed mine. He's just too organised .

    I've kind of stalled on the LP again, so I'm tinkering with odds and sods while I think about options.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The square bar is to be screwed to the front of the table (when I can find the machine screws ). It's for the longitudinal stops. The round bar goes under the table on the LH side. It's for the transverse stops (which are the two collars next to it).

    LP 154.jpg

    I could swear the parts for this machine have a roster to decide which ones are going to go missing each week. I had the tag two months ago - but can't find it now. The machine screws for that bar were here last week - this week they too are in hiding .
    I found the screws (they were in the car ) and reattached the square bar.

    LP 155.jpg

    But not before a small disaster. We had the garage open on a windy day. The LP is next to the garage door. I left for work, and while I was away the wind increased and blew the protective cover partly off the machine. then it rained and the wind blew rain water over most of the table. I had put a liberal amount of oil on the table, but not enough. When I opened the garage the next day there was rust (and water) over half the table .
    I dried and cleaned off what I could, but the table now has water stains . I know the table was never going stay beautiful, but I wasn't prepared for it to lose it's lovely sheen so soon.

    LP 156.jpg

    One of the things I've been tinkering with (and changing my mind over) is the electrics and conduit. I made up a bracket and attached it to the left of the spindle.

    LP 157.jpg Brass 1/4" BSW round head slotted set screws.

    Then attached this little MEM On/Off switch.
    LP 160.jpg LP 159.jpg LP 158.jpg I tapped the mounting plate (no nuts reqd).

    This will be a remote switch for a MEM DOL starter. I've decided not to go with a VFD initially (auscab doesn't have one on his LQ and assures me he's happy with the two speeds he's got). I'll try it and see what I think. I think I can use the same switch when/if I fit a VFD later. I apologise for the poor photos (snapped quickly this evening before the light got too low).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...

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