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  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    I've got some somewhere that have long threaded rods, like 12"
    You're killing me wallace .

    BSW has 12 tpi. It's hard work, so I grunt as I do half a turn, then back it off a quarter turn, at a time. So 1" takes 24 grunts, 18 full turns clockwise, and 6 turns anti-clockwise. And then there are the potential blisters .

    A 12" rod will take 288 grunts, 216 turns clockwise, and 72 turns anti-clockwise. Then it will need a second rod at least 11" long...

    I think I'll wait until I need them that long - or maybe just epoxy the job to the table...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    I've got some somewhere that have long threaded rods, like 12"
    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    ...Its so nice having the wadkin recessor I did at the beginning of the year. It works a treat with the vfd

    LP 171.jpg
    I see what you mean - although I don't think you needed those 12" rods for that job .

    I was intrigued by this fitting, which I don't think I've seen before.

    LP 172.jpg

    Nice.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #93
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    Sep 2012
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    uk
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    Its a spring clamp off my EQ, for keeping pressure when feeding. I was really surprised how much force those screw clamps could exert. I could barely move it with just one clamp

  5. #94
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    Default Work Holding - pt.3.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Attachment 473260

    ...I'd like to have at least four of those clamps.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vann
    ...I haven't made a start on patterns for the castings yet.
    I'm not sure whether the clamps are cast iron, or cast steel (yeah I could attack it with a grinder to see what type of sparks, but I'd rather not). I'm a little concerned that cast iron might crack under tension. And with Bradken NZ closing next month, and A&G prices having gone to the wall 2 or 3 years back - to the best of my knowledge the only steel foundry left in New Zealand is Dispatch - a very small operation in Greymouth.

    So, after seeing wallace's PK double mitre castings in bronze, I thought brass, bronze or gunmetal might be good choices.

    I visited my brother in Dunedin early October, and knowing of a recommended non-ferrous foundry there I took the clamp castings with me. When I asked what they would need in a pattern, they offered to use the sample clamp parts as patterns - and gave me a price that wasn't too scary . They recommended aluminium-bronze (AB-2).

    They sent me an invoice on Friday. I paid the same day - and hey presto, early this afternoon a parcel arrived (excellent service!).

    Here are all the parts so far.

    LP 173.jpg

    LP 167.jpg

    There was of course some shrinkage - around 2.5 to 3mm.

    LP 174.jpg LP 175.jpg

    And the butterfly/thumb/wing turns. Plenty of machining required here. The foundry added a spigot to the top to aid work holding in the lathe, and extra material at the bottom.

    LP 176.jpg

    I'm very happy with the quality. This is the same foundry that cast this crown guard and blade flask for a PK (not mine).

    PK1.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #95
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    Default Memlok - pt.1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...One of the things I've been tinkering with (and changing my mind over) is the electrics and conduit...
    Wadkin literature suggests fitting a reversing switch to these recessors.

    With that in mind, and due to having a Memota DOL starter; a Memrex isolating switch; and a Mem Stop/Start pushbutton station, I've been keeping an eye out for a MEM reversing switch. Specifically a Memlok reversing switch. MEM made them for switching two phases or all three phases.

    I've seen a few on eBayUK, but often for too much money. And the cost of postage from UK now often costs as much as item itself. So I was pleased when one showed up on Trademe recently - and even more pleased when I won it.

    Memlok1.jpg Memlok2.jpg Seller's photographs.

    It has three positions:

    Memlok3.jpg One direction (no relation to the boy band )

    Memlok4.jpg "Off"

    Memlok5.jpg T'other direction.

    As this one only switches two phases it can't be used to safely isolate all the electrical circuits, so it's use will still require the Memrex isolating switch. But as I don't think I've ever seen a three phase one (only in the catalogue) it'll have to do - and I only need to switch two phases to reverse the machine.

    And a nice touch - the ceramic contact holders and arc chutes are identical to those in the Memrex isolating switch - and I have spares should I break one.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #96
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    Default Memlok - pt.2.

    The switch arrived on 1st July. It was in very good condition, but there was dust on the inside. These MEM switches have a heat resistant sheet between the ceramic contact holder and the cast iron case. I don't know for sure, but I suspect the sheet contains asbestos. So I disassembled the switch and washed every item clean to remove any loose dust. The sheet itself (4 pieces) I painted with a pva solution to bond any loosening particles.

    I then stripped the paint from the exterior and repainted the case.

    Memlok6.jpg Note the rolled up paper stuffed into screw holes.

    I wiped the interior with BLO.

    I found I had an offcut of "Thermoseal" big enough to replace the heat resistant sheets.

    Memlok8.jpg Memlok7.jpg

    That's the interior finished.

    Memlok9.jpg

    All bright steel (screw heads, hinge pin) have been buffed and given a coat of BLO (my new secret weapon against rust). The internal wiring has been replaced.

    The lid and toggle are still in undercoat - the weather has not been suitable for spray painting outside (and I'm not allowed to do it in the garage since I got overspray on SWMBO's bike ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #97
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Hey Vann, have you thought about getting a quote for the two PK mitres from that foundry?

    BTW - I found a PK about 15mins from my house which I've bought (pending payment and pickup) but it's missing the double mitres

  9. #98
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    Default Memlok - pt.3.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...The lid and toggle are still in undercoat - the weather has not been suitable for spray painting outside (and I'm not allowed to do it in the garage since I got overspray on SWMBO's bike ).
    I got a sufficiently mild day to get the last of the paint on - and now it's finished.

    LP 77.jpg

    LP 78.jpg

    I'm not sure about that jute rope. It seals really well, but it's not fireproof - and odd strands of jute stick out when it's closed. But I can always change it at a later date if I find something better - or even put the original (possibly asbestos) rope back .

    That "MEM" logo in the ellipse on the lid is just a piece of photocopied paper, glued in place. I have the artwork, but haven't got around to getting waterslide transfers printed.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #99
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    Default Work Holding - pt.4.

    An update on the clamps

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...And the butterfly/thumb/wing turns. Plenty of machining required here. The foundry added a spigot to the top to aid work holding in the lathe, and extra material at the bottom.

    LP 176.jpg
    I had the five wing-turns machined.
    LP 75.jpg LP 76.jpg

    It wasn't cheap but the guy did a good job.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #100
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    With regard to the jute rope as a gasket, I use the stuff used for sealing doors on wood burners. I get it from my local hardware shop. I found an offcut on there floor and it was 1

  12. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    With regard to the jute rope as a gasket, I use the stuff used for sealing doors on wood burners...
    Thanks for that idea. I'll visit our local supplier this week - I bet I'll have to buy a complete "door length" and I'll also bet it won't cost $2 (=1). They're not the sort of place that stock useful bits at reasonable prices .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #102
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    Default Work Holding - pt.5.

    One thing that had been delaying completing the clamps was finding 3/16" imperial rod for the pins that retain the wing-turns. I wanted brass rod (not steel) and it arrived last week.

    Three clamps are now fully assembled. Two of the other three still need threads tapped.

    LP 66.jpg LP 67.jpg

    As a career procrastinator I couldn't decide whether to paint them or not. I wanted to paint the original iron clamp. In the end I decide to paint four and leave two looking all brassy.

    Note the surface rust tarnishing my nicely ground table . My garage/workshop gets damp during winter .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #103
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    Oops, double post (error message said it failed to post first attempt).
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #104
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    I've needed some 5/8 threaded rod for something recently and could only find it in brass, bloody expensive 15 for 6".
    I've started clearing my shop up a bit, I have a box of pattern miller tooling somewhere which I'm looking forward to finding.

  16. #105
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    Default Work Holding - pt.6.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Here are all the parts so far.

    LP 173.jpg
    Well that solves one mystery. Six clamps with two rods each requires twelve threaded, wingnutted rods.

    There are only eight such rods in the photo. It looks like I'll have to obtain some more 1/2" rod and do some more threading (and make some more blisters)

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973
    I've needed some 5/8 threaded rod for something recently and could only find it in brass, bloody expensive 15 for 6"...
    Now there's a thought - I have some brass 1/2" wingnuts which, coupled to brass threaded rod, could make the two non-painted clamps into 100% all brass clamps. Then again, at 15 for 6", that might cost me $120 for four short rods. Hmmm...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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