Thread: Wadkin MD restoration

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...It was originally a line shaft machine but has been converted to run via a motor, it must have been done quite early on. The starter and motor are pretty cool


...

Interesting. Wadkin mostly used Brookhirst switchgear. Igranic Electric Co. was Brookhirst's competitor - though they eventual merged (1960) and I've seen Brookhirst Igranic swithgear in a 1960s Wadkin CC.

According to Grace's Guide, Igranic Electric Co. was formed in 1913 to make the patented control gear of the Cutler-Hammer Manufacturing Co., in Britain.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...I'm not sure on date, at a guess late 20's, Vann will be able to offer some advice.


...

Hmmmm. Not sure I can help.

Wadkin used test number 3783 three times over the years. The cast brass Wadkin & Co. tag means it's pre-1936.

If it's from Wadkin's first test sequence: test 3166 was carried out in September, 1925; while test 4087 was carried out in July 1926. That's ~920 machines over 10 months, or ~92 machines per month. That would place this machine, with test number 3783, somewhere around April, 1926.

However, if it's from Wadkin's 2nd or 3rd test sequences then it would be between 1934 & 1936.

Cheers, Vann.

A bit more done, because wadkin machines were hand finished parts have a stamp to keep track of which machine they were to go on. I have found in the past that parts are not interchangeable from one machine to the same type.


They even stamped the keys

















If the part cant go to the wire wheel








I find it easier to sand before wire wheeling











I've been trying this stuff, first impressions is I like it

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...

...

Now you've really caught my attention.

Could you show a break-down of the shaft, bearings and any spacers for the idler pulleys please?

The reason I ask is I'm seriously considering rebuilding the original flat belt drive on my Wadkin LP, and the idler pulleys look to have the same lubrication arrangement.

aLP-12.jpg aLP-21.jpg

The detail varies a little over various catalogue cuts, but this next cut is typical of many that appear to show a "Kingfisher" type grease pot located in a very similar way to that on your MD.
LP-2.jpg

Any details would be appreciated.

Cheers, Vann.

I will get some pics. The lubrication is pretty basic. The shaft is drilled out and has a hole where the bearing rides with some chasing on the shaft to spread the grease out. The bearing is just a plain bronze jobby. You turn the grease cup which forces a bit grease out.

Time to take the head to bits








I'm always amazed at bolts that come out like this after 90 years

















Time to strip the motor





peculiar voltage





I've never come across this before, the end bells are centered with little locking studs














This doesn't look legit to me, I cant imagine a motor maker would have the leads from the windings coming out like this, the gauge of wire looks very small.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...peculiar voltage


...

I've seen that voltage on more than a few Wadkin tags. I guess it runs okay on 400v?

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

I will get some pics. The lubrication is pretty basic. The shaft is drilled out and has a hole where the bearing rides with some chasing on the shaft to spread the grease out. The bearing is just a plain bronze jobby...

Thanks. I assume that 'thing' - green arrow - is the end of the shaft?

MD idler pulley.jpg

And the ring - red arrow - is that a collar like that fitted to the blade raise/lower shaft on a PK?

PK collar.jpg

What diameter is the shaft please? And the grease hole where the bearing rides - what diameter is that hole please?

And out of interest, what's the width and diameter of the idler wheel (I need to make a 2.25" wide pulley for a 1.75" flat belt).

Thanks, Vann.

Wallace1973,

Thanks very much for the pictorial of your morticer restoration. No doubt about "a picture is worth a thousand words"!

Are the round sanding pads you use Abranet ones or are they pads for metal only?
Looking at the before & after pictures of the metal bars you cleaned, do you follow a "standard" number of steps to get to such a satisfying result?
Is the brake & clutch cleaning fluid part of the process?

Cheers,
Yvan

Originally Posted by Vann

I've seen that voltage on more than a few Wadkin tags. I guess it runs okay on 400v?

Cheers, Vann.

240V single phase roughly equates to 380V three phase. 220V single phase gives you pretty close to 346V three phase.

The sanding discs are abranet, I think there great and worth the money. One thing they dont like is a primed surface. They clog really quick. There good on a primed surface with water.

For the bars I will use scotchbrite and brake cleaner to quickly remove any grease, then sand with 120 grit then wire wheel, finished off with scotchbrite. These werent in bad condition but they have some pits, the wire wheel cleans the rust out and the scotchbrite makes it look uniform. If it was a full monty resto I would sand the pits out with 80 grit and go through the grits to 300.

I would only use scotchbrite on the machined surface

I know I said I wasn't going to tart this one up, but I couldn't resist just a little bit on the motor. There was very little original paint left.


A generous application of zinc 182








Followed by a touch of black enamel







Vann the shaft size is 31mm

Wallace1973

Thank you for explaining how you clean things!
I will try my hand on an old, very rusty cobbler's shoe anvil !

Cheers,
Yvan

Originally Posted by Colin62

240V single phase roughly equates to 380V three phase. 220V single phase gives you pretty close to 346V three phase.

Technically, when you do the calculation 3 x 240V phases actually equates to 415V 3 Phase which is what all of Australia used to run on. New Zealand ran (and still runs) on 230V which translates to 400V 3 Phase.
In 2000 most of Australia quietly transitioned to 230V (except Queensland and WA) and Queensland is currently transitioning so we're largely down to 400V 3 Phase now.
These old motors are pretty robust so a bit of over voltage won't hurt them, it just gives you some extra power . One thing to watch is if you bring any 220V equipment from the US to run here their supply is 60 Hz not 50 Hz the motors will run 17% slower...
RG

Well its finished, I'm not sure you can call this a restoration. Maybe a recommisioning.











I was torn as to weather I should do the buttons
































This is next on the list, its been hammershited so its getting the full monty