Thread: Wadkin MF

Hi Vann,

Thanks for the detailed explanation of how the Test dates work, I guess 1938 is still a good vintage, my dad would have been 21 in that year.

There are a few issues that need attention and may need repair/replacement also some missing parts.

On the chain guard the depth stop is missing, I think on the later models this design was changed, I should be able to fabricate something that works.

The chain side seems seized, but the chisel side moves up & down, so will see if I can get it to move.

Took a few pic's and removed some of the light grey paint which is flacking, which reveals the darker original grey colour below, however I am not going to be a purest and will look to paint it in British Racing Green.

I have just bought a 1964 Hyster Forklift which was made in Australia (another restoration project) for moving my machines around that little bit easier. I made a lifting jib to allow me to pick up the MF through the original lifting hole in the top of the machine.

Cheers Nigel
MF Left.jpgMF Right.jpg MF Paint removal.jpgForklift lifting jib.jpgHyster Forklift.jpg

Nice machine ! Early machines had a darker grey than later machines and its nice. I wonder if your one is that early grey under the later paint job.
It probably is .
Green . Even BRG. You've got me feeling green ! Don't rush into anything to do with painting maybe

The horn handle on the front wheel is great . Don't see many with that on there. That will make it so much faster and easier to use. Ive got to do one on mine . Id like to have one on all three wheels down there. A smaller version on the smaller wheel. Ive got a plan to do that one day.

Are your depth stops missing? There's a bit of wood on the left that's been used for a depth stop. The depth stops on the later ones are a good thing. Very easy to adjust and rock solid in use. It'd be great if the same type fits in the slot on the left and right side. The brochure shows what looks to be the same as later stops. Ill take a pic of mine if they come out easy if you need it. Its probably so basic you don't need it .
image0opop (2).jpg
You want to give the return spring on the chain side a look at if it can be seen. Ive never seen mine or know if there is one on both sides. I do know they cost big $ to buy new ones and they do break. Maybe oil it if things are stuck just in case its that as well ?

Re reading your post your saying the depth stop on the chain guard is missing . I see what you mean . That's for raising the guard as you plunge yeah? Or holding it up out of the way so you can see in there . Not for setting the depth of the mortice . That's done on the sides and what I was talking about above .

image0opop (3).jpeg image0opop (4).jpeg

Hi Rob,

Yes the depth stop that holds the bottom part of the chain guard in place, in attached pic they have painted this guard white, I am missing the depth stop plus the bottom part of the chain guard, also regarding your comment re horn handle on front wheel, again looking at this other machine from the same period, the horn handle is on the side, this makes me think that someone swapped these two handles around at some point, but yes it would be nice to have this horn handle on each hand wheel.

I have also just noticed that even though this machine with the white painted chain guard seems to be the same model as mine, it looks like it has (difficult to tell from the pic) the nicer cast names on the pull down handle "Chain" & "Chisel" mine is just a blank casting, so they added this nice touch later, I suppose another way to look at these missing names from the castings, is it shows how the MF progressed even in its early years.

Cheers Nigel
MF Machine 2 pic 3.JPGMF Machine 2 pic 1.JPG

Another nice machine! I like original colours but that does look good in that later looking Wadkin Green . My late model RS Lathe is that colour, Mostly, the previous owner did a part paint job and painted the left body grey, unfortunately .

Dont know if I said this before here but I learned after I bought My MF that they should sit off the ground so that thread that lifts the table has full travel for when you want to mortise deeper pieces and lower that table . Either raise them or put a hole in the floor I was told . I put mine on a custom pallet and the pallet has a hole. The pallet is good. Im moving My MF all the time.

That handle on the side wheel looks to be another make and later. I made a handle for My RD Buzzer infeed table .
Heres a link to pictures . Login • Instagram

There's a few pictures of it if you scroll right. Made with Walnut . It makes a big difference using the machine . I cant stand having to slowly shift things along with a hand on top of the wheel when a handle to crank it can be had.

Nice job done on the Walnut handle, it's like having the knob on a Forklift, would you want to drive one without it.

In the Wadkin MF manual (pic attached) they suggest a hole in the floor 65mm x 255mm deep, my MF is also raised of the floor with timber blocks by the previous owner and I am quite tall so I like this set up, however I will change the blocks for steel and paint them the same colour as the machine.

Also look at the position of the horn handle illustrated in the manual drawing, it is shown on the side, so again I feel mine has been swapped around at some point.
MF Manual.JPG

255 deep ! Ive never read the instructions that closely to notice the distance. That's huge.
My pallet raises the machine about 125mm . I like the extra height as well. I have an instruction booklet somewhere for My MF . Wondering if its the same as that drawing. That machine in the drawing is also the earlier type going by the chain guard only.
Ill go have a look for it .

I've done quite a few MF's and not seen a handle on any wheels at the front. On the side wheel yes. I cant imagine why you would need to advance it quickly anyway. I've always just used the top of the wheel rim to move the timber.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

On the side wheel yes. I cant imagine why you would need to advance it quickly anyway. I've always just used the top of the wheel rim to move the timber.

One use is when I do a chisel plunge at each end of a mortise then move the piece across to remove the middle with a chain then move it back to clean it out right along with a chisel pass. I'm trying to do it as fast as possible. I get a method worked out. It can be different for each job, and like to have a set of four legs mortised in 16 to 20 minutes if possible . Or faster. I mainly use the MF for 1/2" and 5/8" and its usually Oak legs. I get by without the handle on the front but know it would be better with it. I fitted one to one of my smaller mortisers and its been good.

Here's a picture of a depth stop from my left side.

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My later User Manual doesn't have this picture you posted .
MF Manual.JPG

My one came with the machine.

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Here's a few pics of My MF. It came in original paint and with the lot. Both short and long stop bars with the spring stops and complete chain sharpening set up. A lucky find .

IMG_0329.jpg IMG_0331.jpg IMG_0330.jpg IMG_0332 (2).jpg

Originally Posted by auscab

One use is when I do a chisel plunge at each end of a mortise then move the piece across to remove the middle with a chain then move it back to clean it out right along with a chisel pass. I'm trying to do it as fast as possible. I get a method worked out. It can be different for each job, and like to have a set of four legs mortised in 16 to 20 minutes if possible . Or faster. I mainly use the MF for 1/2" and 5/8" and its usually Oak legs. I get by without the handle on the front but know it would be better with it. I fitted one to one of my smaller mortisers and its been good.

Just a thought, why not swap the handles around like on my machine.

Originally Posted by Camelot

Just a thought, why not swap the handles around like on my machine.

That could be a good easy thing to try and do .

I had a look in the box of tooling that came with the MF and I don't have this depth stop attachment, but I am sure I could make something. I have now managed to free the chain and it moves up and down. I am going to wait for a while before trying to start it up because it got wet coming up from NSW

I dont know how deep your going into refurbishing this but one thing to remember is if your taking the chain off that attaches the motor to the balance spring, Make sure you release the tension off the spring by the gear on the side. The first one I did I just knocked the pin out and the chain went flailing around and wacked my hand. It weely weely hurt

Originally Posted by wallace1973

I dont know how deep your going into refurbishing this but one thing to remember is if your taking the chain off that attaches the motor to the balance spring, Make sure you release the tension off the spring by the gear on the side. The first one I did I just knocked the pin out and the chain went flailing around and wacked my hand. It weely weely hurt

Thanks for the heads up