Thread: Wadkin PK double mitre

ouch, thats more than my almost complete saw cost.

I know its a bit of $ but its a reasonable price for the work required I think.

Ive seen a second hand original pair go for that much . 800 UK. With the knob, set stop and pin .
And I heard of a set go for $50 as well, in a gararge sale situation here.
If you had to get them cast here then machined then the knob the pin and the set stop made I think you would be spending between $2500 and $3000 AU at least. That's if you couldn't do anything your self . And doesn't include making or getting patterns made. Or include the flip stop and bar.
I'm not sure if the flip stop and bar are included in that ebay sale but you would think they are with them being in the picture fitted up.

It took me 10 years to complete my saw by getting the missing double mitres. Half came with a swap off Vann in NZ and the other half from UK ebay. I then had to machine them into a perfect fit by re doing the pin and hole for them.

Originally Posted by tony_A

ouch, thats more than my almost complete saw cost.

What are you missing on your saw Tony ?

Im missing the saw guard and only have the single mitre. If I saw the double mitre for $50 in a garage sale I would snap it up but I can live without it

So having a look at this it would be roughly AUD$2039.37 (£1092.66) landed in Australia.

I bought my PK for AUD$1700 which came with neither of these. I'm not talking down the value of this as a lot of time effort and expertise has gone into making this up.

If you have a commercial use for these then perhaps it's justifiable. As a hobbiest (& lover of Wadkin kit) I personally can't justify the spend.

I'll be looking to make up something out of brass and wood. If there is anyone in Brisbane willing to lend me theirs for a period of time I would be very grateful so I can copy them. Rob, I have your designs so may just need to rely on that.

Making a pair would be good and work just the same . The best / easiest one I have seen was done using angle iron and a welder .

Yup thanks for the pics Rob. I think those on eBay will do well in the UK and perhaps some keen beans in the US. It seems generally machines, etc go for much more there than they do here in Australia and NZ.

This is a Double Mitre off a PP saw: the belt driven 5hp 5.5inch depth of cut model after the PK.
It has a spring loaded pin for table detents on the outboard end.
The PP may have had more table detents than the PK; i think mine only has three but it is buried at the present under much timber etc?

Tony

Originally Posted by AJOE123

This is a Double Mitre off a PP saw:

Tony

What is Tony ? Were you going to add pictures ?

Rob

BTW - are there any SE QLD peeps lurking around who have these double mitres for their PK or PP? If so I am very keen to connect and see if I can borrow them.

Rob has kindly given me accurate drawings and dimensions of these but nothing beats the real thing to go by to copy. Dimensions can be found here: Wadkin PK Gen 4

For record keeping the replica ones I've included here for reference.

PK-00.jpg PK-01.jpg PK-02.jpg PK-04.jpg PK-05.jpg PK-06.jpg PK-08.jpg

Also I am keen to understand what improvements people would make if they were to make these from scratch? There must be at least 80yrs of learnings and experience collectively from people all over the world?

20230518_212951.jpg PK-Fence.jpg

Here’s the blurb from the 1965 brochure on the PP stuff.
Always liked my mates PP but I passed on a roughy for $300 ‘cause I had the Martin by then.
H.

PK Double mitre doing a mitred top board for this extension table. A very handy tool for such cuts. There are 12 pieces for such a top. The main top and two leaves. And 24 mitred cuts to fit.

IMG_2774aab.jpg IMG_1183a.jpg

Here's another PK double mitre related set of pictures from a build I did about a year back.

The cornice moulding for a high dresser.
The kerf of the PK blade is nice and wide. So stepping out cuts to remove waste for a mouldng is easier than a thin blade kerf . It's a reason why I like to have a rip blade fitted. The flat tooth angle leaves a clean bottom to the cut. Not so important with this but nice for slotting pieces like drawer sides to take a bottom.
I don't have a rip blade fitted atm because of a mix up with the bloke I ordered the blade off. That's another story.
My combination 18" blade still works though not as clean.

IMG_2226a.jpg IMG_2227a.jpg

Stepping out the waste and finishing with moulding planes on the sticking board at the bench.

IMG_2231a.jpg IMG_2229a.jpg IMG_2232a.jpg

Glueing together with a mould that was done on router table and cleaned up with moulding planes.

IMG_2237a.jpg


Cut to fit the cabinet.
IMG_2240a.jpg IMG_2241a.jpg IMG_2242a.jpg

Fitting. Planed in. Sand and filler.

IMG_2248a.jpg IMG_2266a.jpg

Finished.
IMG_2376a.jpg

Very nice looking piece Rob.
Looks like a fair bit of work but it's come up nicely.
RG