Thread: Wadkin PK Gen 4

What I did first was to apply TROTON Premium Universal Filler first, this goes on as a thick paste and is a bit hard to get an even coating especially when you have curves or tight spots. If you have obstructions when sanding it can be tricky to get a nice flat surface so some is done with my Festool sander and some done by hand. Voids are fairly common and have typically sanded and then done a second coat with this stuff but low spots etc can be lead you down the garden path and you end up chasing your tail if your striving for perfection. My hope with the Septone® Acrylic Spray Putty was that it would go on a lot thicker (perhaps 1-2mm) to fill anything that that the TROTON Universal Filler didn't.

TROTON Premium Universal Filler.jpeg

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

What I did first was to apply TROTON Premium Universal Filler first, this goes on as a thick paste and is a bit hard to get an even coating especially when you have curves or tight spots. If you have obstructions when sanding it can be tricky to get a nice flat surface so some is done with my Festool sander and some done by hand. Voids are fairly common and have typically sanded and then done a second coat with this stuff but low spots etc can be lead you down the garden path and you end up chasing your tail if your striving for perfection. My hope with the Septone® Acrylic Spray Putty was that it would go on a lot thicker (perhaps 1-2mm) to fill anything that that the TROTON Universal Filler didn't.

TROTON Premium Universal Filler.jpeg

I use a fine body filler like this one TROTON Premium Fine Body Filler Includes Hardener 1.8kg Auto Car Dent
– Wholesale Paint Group I make sure it is mixed well with the minimum amount of hardener to make sure there are no air bubbles then I ice the casting like icing a cake. Once cured sand by machine to flatten the high spots then wet/dry by hand, when I am happy with the finish I will go over it with 120 grit to give the paint something to key to. So the pic you showed is not the casting but air holes in your filler?

Thanks - I think the biggest issue I have is caking on the filler enough to 'over fill' any voids so when standing back I don't have any voids left. The voids aren't air bubbles they are just areas that are low spots or where I have a line thats left by the squeezy/applicator card thats got dried lumps on it which I didn't remove prior to applying a fresh coat. The stuff I have been using goes off quick & sticks like crazy and is hard to get off the squeezy/applicator card and because the squeezy/applicator card is made of plastic it very often is prone to having residue left on it.

Old credit cards make good bog spreaders.
When I did Autobody and spray painting at TAFE the teacher made a point to just fold the bog and hardener over itself gently a number of times til it’s an even colour. Don’t mix aggressively with a rounded hacksaw blade like I learnt as a Patternmaker for fillets as that creates the bubbles/pinholes.
H.

Got a little way forward with the restore - pretty much got the crown guard column completed. It does whined up and down a bit tight - perhaps some lubrication of some kind on the column will help.

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Soooo looking this doco would I correct in saying my PK motor is a ZEF?

What experience have people in Australia had with replacing the bearings? There doesn't seem to be any play in the bearings BUT I am seriously considering replacing them regardless.
I did look at the below post but keen to get a recommend manufacturer / part number?
Wadkin PK -

Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement Forum

Also is there some sort of trick to disassembling the motor?


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The video below has a motor with ZF embossed on it which is why I assume mine is a ZEF.

Can't you take the cover off where the grease nipple is and have a look inside, the grease may have dried over the years so you could rest that end in solvent and remove the old grease then reapply new.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Soooo looking this doco would I correct in saying my PK motor is a ZEF?...

It's got the "W" end cover so it's ZEF.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...Also is there some sort of trick to disassembling the motor?...

I've not taken one apart but, it looks like : at the blade end remove the locknut, both blade collars, and the square key. At the other end remove the "W" cover (C), the nut (D), and the fan plate and square key. Remove all bolts/screws holding the RH inner end cover. You should then be able to knock the rotor out the RH end (leaving the LH bearing still in the housing).

Have I missed anything?

Cheers, Vann.

OK this isn't as straight forward as suggest or as I thought.
(1) The motor shaft has a thread on each end so looking at (2) & (3) it looks like these components need to wind off the shaft?My question is how do you wind these parts off the shaft? I don't have a tool that can interface in the holes to turn these off the shaft.

I've given these parts a squirt with WD40 and poked a punch into the one in the back of the motor (fan) to try and hit with a hammer to see if it'll budge but no go!

Your suggestions are most welcome

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Make the tool or tools for it. You will most likely bugger them up punching them on and off.
Drilling some flat bar and fitting some mild steel rod should do. Weld it if possible on the off side. Peening them in needs a shoulder on each rod so unless you have access to a lathe its hard to do.

Thanks Rob - I made up something with a piece of wood and bolts but to no avail. Going to need something both ends at once to:

A) Hold it in place to brace the shaft
B) Turn one end off

The fan end looks fairly rusted for some reason - grrrr ... let the fun begin!

Looking at the manual (which I should have done in the first place)... directions below:

TO DISMANTLE MOTOR
6. Remove the saw flanges with a soft metal drift.
7. Take off the end caps B & C.
8. Unscrew the rear bearing locknut D & take off the impeller & key in the ZEF motor.
9. Knock out the spindle from the tail end of the motor using a piece of wood or metal (brass, copper, lead).
10. Knock bearing out of the rear housing. This is facilitated if the housing removed.
11. Unscrew the bearing locknut E (which has a left-hand thread) after losing the small countersunk locking screw. The front bearing can now be removed.

TO REASSEMBLE
Before assembly clean out all old lubricant. To assemble, reverse the above procedure ensuring that no dirt or grit enters the bearings or housing. Smear the great with Wadkin Ball Bearing Grease. Grade L.6. When fitting the ball bearings do not hammer the races into position but give gentle taps with a soft rod all round the periphery. The inner races should be a good push-fit on the spindle & the outer race a good sliding-fit.

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All you really need is a drill to do a tool or two. A drill press would be a lot better though. And a set of drill bits . Two would be better . One metric one imperial. Then find the diameter rod that you need. A little larger in diameter than the holes in the motor ends would be good. If you can mark the correct positions on the flat bar where the rod holes are needed accurately. And drill them accurately. The holes in the bar should be to small for the rods but not by much. Then grind a taper onto the rods to be inserted into the holes and drive them in tight making sure the taper was correct size to allow the rod to protrude from the other side by 5 mm. Then cut and grind the fixed rods to correct length on the user side. Put them face down on a block of steel and peen over the protruding back ends. Then grind or file the user side of the rods to fit in the motor holes.

Now if you had a cheap arc welder . You'd just drill the bar and insert two or three rods through the over size or exact holes in it into the motor nut end and tack weld the rod backs onto the bar. Pull it out and weld them better and you have a PK tool.

Watch a few Indian YT vids.

Everything can be made with an ark welder standing there in nothing more than your thongs and jocks.