Thread: Wadkin PK Gen 4

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Here you go Vann ...

Thanks. Are the set screw and stud both 1/2" (or maybe 3/8") diameter?

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Vann

Thanks. Are the set screw and stud both 1/2" (or maybe 3/8") diameter?

Cheers, Vann.

Yup ½" bolts

This is what I mean by surface rust. This tabletop was wire brushed among other things and got it as good as it was going to get about 6 months ago. It's been inside my enclosed garage over summer in storage while I restore the rest of the parts, We've had a fairly wet summer. I have the extension table which got treated with Renaissance™ Wax which has zero signs of surface rust. I've smeared Renaissance™ wax on every nut and bolt thats been cleaned up on my bench grinder wire wheel + any exposed cast iron surfaces that didn't get paint. From past experience this will give it protection for a good 12 - 18 months - I'll periodically re-apply it on stuff that is within reach/accessible.

OK - enough about labouring this topic, I won't bring it up in this thread again

WadkinPK-Tabletop01.jpg WadkinPK-Tabletop02.jpg

Rust is a nightmare, which is something I need to think about for the new workshop, maybe an heat exchanger and good cross ventilation.

Originally Posted by Camelot

Rust is a nightmare, which is something I need to think about for the new workshop, maybe an heat exchanger and good cross ventilation.

Dunno - I can't put my finger on it. But the Sunny Coast generally gets more rainfall than Brisbane. I think it's just a tradeoff of living in Paradise

I can't see there being a cost effective control way except:
1) Once parts have been cleaned up that don't get exposed to wear to clear coat them
2) Parts that are exposed to wearing like tabletops of machines just need periodic maintenance

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...I can't see there being a cost effective control way...

Items such as bolts and nuts can be "blued" (preferably black) - I don't know how anti-rust that is, but I know it makes a big difference. Or liberally coated in lanolin/fisholine.
Or painted (I have painted bolt heads on some machines, but don't like the looks much).

Surfaces that do get wear need to be used - that keeps rust at bay - and maybe waxed between use.

And for those of us that aren't concerned about costs - humidity control in your workshop (hah, that I should be so lucky).


But you Aussies shouldn't be complaining, you've got plenty of dry desert to build your workshops in...

I'm off (grabs hat & coat and makes a run for the door).

Cheers, Vann .

It's all about the humidity!
Melbourne is a pretty dry climate and an occaisonal coat of wax seems to be enough in my shed. I live in St Kilda about 200m from the beach so it's not like there's not the possibility of salt in the air too. Before COVID I lived for a while in the north east of the US and the summers are awful for humidity there. I ran a dehumidifier in the basement workshop there all summer long. It extracted a couple of litres of water a day from the basement so it needed to be plumbed directly to waste otherwise it would overflow the reservoir if I left it for three days without emptying it! I still got a bit of surface rust on some of the equipment there but way less than before I used the dehumidifier.
It looks like you can get them from Bunnings or online at a range of prices depending on reservoir capacity or quality no doubt. Maybe a solution if your workshop isn't open to the outside permanently.
RG

As I am putting the PK together I can't help but marvel at the detail that has gone into this saw and how they solved things that needs to be adjusted when fine tuning for setup. Like this eccentric bolt that guides the sliding table so it runs true to blade.

WadkinPK-eccentric-bolt.jpg

Another eccentric do da to ensure the sliding table is at the right hight. It runs on a total of 8 of these bearings.

WadkinPK-eccentric-bearing02.jpg WadkinPK003.jpg

Glade I kept these little shims safe. They provide just enough distance from the casting so as not to get caught!

WadkinPK-eccentric-bearing01.jpg

This has me stumped - I just can't remember where this goes?

WadkinPK-flatheadbolt.jpg

I did take a look at: Restoring a pair of Wadkin PKs | Page 3 | MIG Welding Forum ol'mate talks about "so the table lock handle doesn't rotate" I can't see where this would screw into around lock handle???

- - - Updated - - -

This has me stumped - I just can't remember where this goes?

WadkinPK-flatheadbolt.jpg

I did take a look at: Restoring a pair of Wadkin PKs | Page 3 | MIG Welding Forum ol'mate talks about "so the table lock handle doesn't rotate" I can't see where this would screw into around lock handle???

▲ Never mind ... I guess if you stare at something long enough it eventually twigs!

WadkinPK-Handle.jpg

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

This has me stumped - I just can't remember where this goes?...

You had me wondering too. I just wrote "My PK doesn't have that", but I went out and had a look - and it does! My LP recessor has the same cam handle too, but without that rotation stop.

Cheers, Vann.

I tried fitting the new 18" blade (pictured) I bought for the saw only to find out the riving knife assembly & actual knife is in the way!

WadkinPK-Blade.jpg

Looks like someone has made an alteration to mine? Or made up a whole new? It fits fairly well using a 14" blade. Anyone got pics for reference of the original?

WadkinPK-RivingKnife.jpg

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Looks like someone has made an alteration to mine? Or made up a whole new? It fits fairly well using a 14" blade. Anyone got pics for reference of the original?

WadkinPK-RivingKnife.jpg

The knife is someone else's job obviously.
The Bracket looks wrong as well. My original one (I'm pretty sure) has two bolts sit on top of each other not next to each other. I wouldn't think an 18" blade would fit a knife with that bracket as its a bit of a tight squeeze even with the bolts stacked upright. Van will have a good sketch and pictures of one.

Here's my bracket. Shims and all unfortunately.

Untitledaass.jpg

And the knife I made from mild steel. You see supposedly original PK knife copy's that have a large rounded top end. Their not great I reckon because the rounded end sits higher than the teeth. Which means you can only rip or cross cut right through timber. No internal stopped cuts. There is plenty of spring in a piece of mild steel to work perfectly well IMHO.

IMG_9075 - Copy aa.jpg

See how skinny it is below to make it work with an 18" blade.
Ive still got to weld the end up so it cant slide up to make it safer. Its not possible for it to tilt forward and touch the blade as it touches the back casting. It'd need a hit with something huge bend the bolt first.
IMG_9077aaa.jpg

Rob.

PS.
Apologies for saying the obvious but don't try using your PK with no riving knife. One or two very careful test cuts with you standing wide maybe to see how the saw works but don't get used to not having one fitted. Like I did . I didn't get hit but holey SH##!!
They will kick the sh## out of you, and if your in the wrong position and take a hit to the chest it'll kill.
The knife makes a huge difference to this saw. Much more than one does on all the other saws I have used in the 35 years of sawing on other table saws previously.
They were much slower and smaller. The direct drive off the motor is insane on these saws with 18 inches of blade.

Just saying.

Have you cut any wood on this saw yet?

Thanks Rob, I think the actual assembly that attaches to the rise and fall casting is original BUT the rest isn't. Doesn't actually look to hard to replicate. Of all the saws components which are well thought out and on point this original riving knife mounting looks like an after thought.

Here is my thinking:
1) Make up the skinny mounting bracket
2) Make up a new riving knife. The kerf of the blade is 4mm so if I can find a piece of 4mm brass (thats affordable) that would be great else just a piece of 4mm steel and shape it as required.

I've done a test cut with the 14" blade thats on there BUT ran a piece of recycled wood through it which had a number of nails in it which I didn't realise - very stupid and kicked myself as it chipped at least a couple of teeth on a blade which was perfectly good. The 14" blade still cuts OK so I could just use it until I fashion up something new.

Yup there is no way I'll cut with this saw without a riving knife. I've done it on single phase smaller machines with no problems but not willing to risk it on this saw.

Anyone got a drawing or dimensions of their riving knife I can copy?