Thread: Wadkin PK Gen 4

I finally got 3 phase sorted in my garage and now have 6 outlets - very handy! Only three machines plugged and tested; PK saw, BGY sander & MA mortiser - all running very well! I did a test cut with the PK and took a ½ decaying piece of wood, little did I know it had large nails embedded lets just say the 14" rip blade now has some chipped teeth - couldn't believe it! Will sort out a blade from Brisbane Saw Service who said they can do a 18" rip / cross cut combo blade for around the $220 mark.

There are a few things I am keen to tune;
1) The 45º tilting doesn't go past about 70º so I assume the gear is caked with saw dust preventing it from going any further - it progressively gets tighter as I try to whined it.
2) Pulling the slider table away from the blade is heavy and really need to muscle it.
3) The sliding table runs more like a 3rd world country train rather than a smooth rolling Japanese bullet train.

Regarding point # 2 - Whats the thinking regarding cleaning and lubricating the bearings?
They are FAG (Made in England) bearings.

Wadkin PK slider frame.jpg Wadkin PK - Slider bearings.jpg

Regarding point # 3 - I'll sand back where each part contacts & then perhaps use silicone lubricant spray or is there something better than this to reduce friction that may last longer?

Wadkin PK - slider contacts.jpg

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...I did a test cut with the PK and took a ½ decaying piece of wood, little did I know it had large nails embedded lets just say the 14" rip blade now has some chipped teeth...

If it's any consolation, be thankful it was a 14" blade and not a really expensive 18" one. Hang on to the munted 14" blade for other suspect wood.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...
1) The 45º tilting doesn't go past about 70º so I assume the gear is caked with saw dust preventing it from going any further - it progressively gets tighter as I try to whined it...

I had the same problem with my Gen 3 PK. I took the mechanism apart, cleanedall the dust and carp of, repainted all the castings (very different to your Gen 4 tilt mechanism) and reassembled it. Wadkin PK Tilt Mechanism.

But it's still tight . I'll have to see how far I can tilt it tomorrow (as it's dark now).

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...
2) Pulling the slider table away from the blade is heavy and really need to muscle it...

...Regarding point # 3 - I'll sand back where each part contacts & then perhaps use silicone lubricant spray or is there something better than this to reduce friction that may last longer?...

I also cleaned up those contact points. I can't recall if I used any lubricant, or not. But it takes a good heave to pull it out. I'd suggest a good rub with wax.

I notice the rod for the locking handle, the one nearest the camera, is bent just where the thread starts.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...
3) The sliding table runs more like a 3rd world country train rather than a smooth rolling Japanese bullet train...

...Regarding point # 2 - Whats the thinking regarding cleaning and lubricating the bearings?
They are FAG (Made in England) bearings...

Those bearing are not original. Wadkin supplied open bearings, hence the 'ball oilers' fitted alongside each bearing.

Check each bearing. I suggest that if it runs freely, reuse it as is. If it runs rough, replace it with a new sealed bearing. Or you could pop out the seals and clean out the old grease and grunge, but I doubt you'll get the seals back in. You could then go back to oiling them regularly.

I agonised over replacing the two bearings that needed replacement on mine, with open bearings (authentic), or sealed bearings (cleaner). I got sealed bearings in the end because they were cheaper (or maybe because open bearings weren't available at that time).

My table still slides like a dog - maybe I need to spend a bit more time adjusting bearings.

Have you seen that 27 minute YouTube video Jack English Machines did on the PK saw? He gives his table a gentle nudge and it slides like it's on silk .

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks Vann

I think I'll replace all of the bearings or at least some of them. Some have an ever so slight bit of movement - all of them don't roll freely or as freely as I would expect when I give them a flick.

I did notice the bent rod - I'll give it a bit of tap once I get it out and give it a straighten.

A bit of bearing info my dad passed on to me:

"The ones on my machine are FAG 2RS Made in England. You don’t have to buy FAG or SKF. The Japanese bearings are good these days. Don’t go for the cheapest, because they will fail and don’t buy on EBay. Go to a bearing supply shop. I think there is Koyo and NTN, but what the bearing shop sells should be good."

A bit of useless trivia - The bearings on my machine are identical to the ones on Wallace's machine he restored here: wadkin pk restoration -

Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement Forum

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...A bit of useless trivia - The bearings on my machine are identical to the ones on Wallace's machine he restored...

Ahh, you mean this one: wadkin PK restoration

Not this one: wadkin pk restoration
Which is a Gen 3 machine, and had FAG open bearings for the slider.

Nor this one: Wadkin PK restoration
Which is a Gen 1 machine and had a completely different slider bearing system.

Wallace has been a busy boy and has done a few PKs over the years . I suspect those three are just the tip of the iceberg.

Wadkin used Hoffman bearings a lot in their woodworking machines, but interestingly, the Operating and Maintenance Instructions for the PK specifies SKF bearings throughout.

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

2) Pulling the slider table away from the blade is heavy and really need to muscle it.

I have the extension fitted as well so its even heavier.
To shift the slider and extension away from the blade I use two sticks under the extension and using the stand. One as a hook and one as a lever and the leverage makes it easy to adjust in and out accurately. It may be possible to do a similar thing under the slider. Maybe with one stick or using two , one left and one right ?

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Regarding point # 3 - I'll sand back where each part contacts & then perhaps use silicone lubricant spray or is there something better than this to reduce friction that may last longer?

Wadkin PK - slider contacts.jpg

Using silicon under the tops of machines on the moving parts shouldn't be a problem if you were careful with it. There are better things to use though.
And.
Silicon spray or silicon lube of any sorts is usually kept well away from woodworking workshops. It interferes with polishing / finishing the wood.
It can make timber un finishable . Ive never seen it happen on new woodwork just read about it a number of times. First I heard of it was the old polishers at work trying to solve the problem of nothing taking to a damaged polished surface needing repair and they said the reason could be the use of a silicon based modern furniture reviver.
Even putting it on steel surfaces can transfer it across to the wood.
If you walked into a professional furniture manufacturing workshop with a can of silicon spray though they would quickly tell you that stuff is not staying in here.
I use either candle wax or a smear paraffin oil on those surfaces.

Rob

Thanks Rob - will figure it out when time comes, wax does sound easy and cost effective

Not sure if anyone else has these letters stamped on their filler strip with corresponding screws?

WadkinPK - filler strip screws.jpg WadkinPK - filler strip screws02.jpg

A couple of the 3/8" oiler buttons is missing the ball bearing. This shouldn't be too hard to find online off ebay or maybe a bearing shop.

WadkinPK - Oiler Buttons.jpg

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Not sure if anyone else has these letters stamped on their filler strip with corresponding screws?...

Yup, that's Wadkin attention to detail .

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

...A couple of the 3/8" oiler buttons is missing the ball bearing...

I needed a couple for mine. Also some flip-top oilers. I sourced one type through Trademe and the other I had to get from Oz. I think the ball oilers were local, but I don't remember for sure.

Of course, you don't actually need the ball oilers if you used sealed bearings for the slider (though keeping sawdust out of the holes might be a good idea).

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Not sure if anyone else has these letters stamped on their filler strip with corresponding screws?

That's how they come . Nice little touch isn't it.
The filler strips and screws were ground with the top as one. So the screws will only sit right on top if placed back in there original holes. My PK came without a filler strip on the left so I re made one and fitted screws and I still have to stamp them with the correct letters. It amazed me how much wear my top had had around the edges of the slot that takes the filler strip. The corners have lost their sharpness. It's a slight thing but it shows. There is no way I could make a filler strip and screws that match the look of the factory ground ones . Like the one on my right side. Unless I had my whole top re ground. I got it close as I could.

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

A couple of the 3/8" oiler buttons is missing the ball bearing. This shouldn't be too hard to find online off ebay or maybe a bearing shop.

Press Button Oilers from 3/16" - 3/8" - LPR Toolmakers



OILERS


Rob

Thanks Vann - good point I'll pass on the oilers. Thanks nonetheless Rob for the URLs

Rob, I ran the angle grinder over the bench and just from the wire bristles it started to round some edges - lucky I realised and was one done around the timber filler piece next to the blade and not where the actual ruler or filler strips are, I was very careful on all other edges after that.

OK brains trust, I got a couple of questions:

1) I'll get my dad to turn me some brass knobs (thanks Wallace for your stella examples below). I've got 3 out of 4 of these little gems and looking to do two brass knobs for the dust shroud that goes up and down when you adjust the hight of the blade. Maybe I do all 4 - 2 x dust shroud & 2 x for the blade dust cover?

BrassKnobs01.jpg BrassKnob02.jpg Wadkin-Knob.jpg

2) Is there some sort of order that you disassemble this apparatus? I undid the 4 x bolts and the grub screw that drives the shaft that does the actual 45º tilt (the BIG gear you see in the 2nd pic) BUT this seems tighter than a fishes a$$ when I tried to pull that front plate off (yes I'd already removed the turn wheel).

Wadkin-45-degrees01.jpg Wadkin-45-degrees.jpg

Nice to see you are making progress, but I can't help with your questions