Looking great Mark . The Gold looks nice and flash too . A very nice rich Gold it is . What sort of paint is it ?
Rob
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Looking great Mark . The Gold looks nice and flash too . A very nice rich Gold it is . What sort of paint is it ?
Rob
The paint shop couldn't do metallic enamel mix so I pinched this from my wifes craft supplies, I will check the make, It is water based enamel and went on surprisingly well
To secure the fixing for bar I drilled and tapped it.
https://i.imgur.com/WCrF3AL.jpg
Followed by a bit crow poo braze
https://i.imgur.com/an6brJk.jpg?1
A bit filler
https://i.imgur.com/J9eYprA.jpg?1
And a splash of etch primer
https://i.imgur.com/v0H4tU5.jpg?1
The nuts to tighten the bar clamps are missing so I remembered I had some offcuts of stair rods
https://i.imgur.com/W2rBLQg.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/jSB5QAt.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/cnGZcPK.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/ZhuE8Le.jpg?1
A bit more done, it was only 5 degrees so not the best weather to be spraying. Luckily this enamel is very forgiving and doesn't need perfect conditions for a decent finish. I did put the pieces under a chicken brooding lamp for a bit though.
https://i.imgur.com/jx9MWoA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tPzCXXL.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/j2ceV9B.jpg?1
For the arms I got some round bar from a local fabrication place for the princely sum of £6
https://i.imgur.com/ii87P1o.jpg?1
My bitsa support seems to work pretty well
https://i.imgur.com/lT6f2hh.jpg?1
This saw was missing a couple of adjustable pin that the sliding table runs on, I asked this guy to do them and he kindly agreed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoS6ipDd-bM&t=26s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLxiO0ui2qM
These are the eccentric pins that hold the bearing for the sliding table. Two of them were missing so I asked that doubleboost of youtube to make a couple, which he kindly did. The one on the right is the wadkin one.
https://i.imgur.com/cr9gQN5.jpg?1
Bearings installed
https://i.imgur.com/nt6jcdn.jpg?1
It was also missing a couple of the pins that hold plain bearings for lateral adjustment of the slider.
Luckily I had a couple spare that Matt Matt made for me a few years ago.
https://i.imgur.com/aWsyL3D.jpg?1
I made some brass covers for the bearings
https://i.imgur.com/XcnERi9.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/YSf81pE.jpg?1
This poor pk was also missing its extension for the table.
https://i.imgur.com/ToCvLt4.jpg?1
All finished
https://i.imgur.com/k6C4N3p.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/lVOTE8s.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/PHIDdZO.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/ialnAuu.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/RGXUKn4.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/JxYvjjh.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/L441f7q.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/HT57sed.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/ahVg2f6.jpg?1
Another fantastic restoration job Mark. Good to see yet another old machine brought back to life.
Tony
I remember wallace mentioning this, and after a bit of searching I found it...
So today I took apart the blade raise/lower "gearbox" off PK 1857.
Sure enough: the tapered pin was gone - replaced by a 5/16"/8mm roll pin. And the roll pin was munted :o. The brass gear wheel hub had been rotated 90 degrees and a new hole drilled for the roll pin (so the tapered pin holes were still there), but the tapered pin hole in the shaft had been drilled out to take the roll pin. So no chance of fitting a replacement taper pin.
The roll pin extended out one side but I could push it back in with my finger. Once flush with the hub it stuck. I tapped it out with a punch and it was bent like a banana. I found a new 8mm roll pin and fitted that. Nice and tight (but I'm not sure that it's strong enough).
Now I'm worried about my working PK - which is very tight to lower and raise the blade :C.
While I was at it I cleaned out all the grease (and the red paint on the brass gear wheel washed off too :doh:) and gave everything a coating of oil. I didn't have my camera with me and now it's too dark to take photos - maybe tomorrow.
The moral of the story: I guess this pin is a weakness in the PK design - and needs checking from time to time.
Cheers, Vann.
I think it happens when a machine has been left with the blade set in one position for a long time, and maybe ran without dust extraction. The ways get crudded up which makes the raise, lower much harder. Add in a lack of maintenance and a bit rust and it becomes seized. Then some one gives it what fettle to move it and the pin is the weak link. The machines I start with have definately been neglected a bit.
Okay, so some bananas are straighter than others.
Attachment 495726
Here's the "gearbox" reassembled after de-greasing (lightly oiled only).
Attachment 495727
Note the new roll pin.
Attachment 495728 Attachment 495729 Attachment 495730
Cheers, Vann.
Put another roll pin inside the first one for added strength.
A very nice rebuild.
Sometimes they have pins that are meant to fail, so as another more expensive part does not fail.
Used to be called sacrificial pins or shear pins, sometimes made from aluminium or mild steel.
I don't know anything about the Wadkin PK saws, except that my late father had one in his workshop
as well as a Wadkin planer.
Goes to show what can be nicely rebuilt and be put back into service.
Neil
How did you go about pulling the motor apart? I assume you made up some specific spanners to remove the bearing locknuts (D) & (E)?
Attachment 537599