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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    630

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    Just a thought but could you grind off the 'Wadkin' raised lettering on the one you have? Then 3D print what you want an stick that onto the guard? From a purist point of view fair enough it's not going to be original obviously BUT to restore it to 'original look' it's a way to achieve what your trying to do.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

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    It did cross my mind but luckily I might have one sourced

    A nit more shiny stuff





    The little end bits are sometimes threaded on or like these, peened over. Just file off a bit and punch through.





    I put them in a drill and use a power file











    Then hold some sand paper in your hand and spin it with a drill





    You can do the same with the centre bit, just put some threaded rod and clamp in the chuck








    More puddling primer



  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,503

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post


    Got some more supplies in. Someone mentioned those paint removal discs on my bandsaw thread so I thought I'd try them. I got some other ones that are like fine scotchbrite.
    I also got some steel rod for new locating pins and a box of 5 wire wheels for the silly price of £21, I normally pay £10 for one wire wheel.


    So what was the verdict on the paint removal discs?

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    741

    Default

    Great old machine, a lot of love going into it well done

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    The paint removal discs are great, they last a while in use. There better than a flapper disc for paint removal. They are good for cleaning up bright metal as well. Obviously not a machined surface. The ones I got, the hole was too small to fit the locating ring on my grinder so I had to centrelise as best I could. The fine scotchbrite type wheel were ok if you want a uniform dull shine, they dont last as long and snag on edges easier which pulls bits out.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

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    I managed to find some new old stock bearings for the princely sum of £8 for two, they are made in Japan so good quality. I think the SKF price was £76.





    Because the bearing had spun within the end bell I used some of this





    A stud extractor attempt that actually worked,





    I made a new stud





    It was obvious some one had been in here before to change the front big bearing. this spacer must of been bashed on.





    I rubbed it over some sand paper on a cast iron table to remove any dings. The blade flange bares on this so it should be flat.
    Motor assembled and given some black paint












  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Its like getting ready for surgery





    The locating dowels were a bit sad and some were bent, so I got some rods of various thickness to replace all of them on the machine.





    Anyone got a source for brass washers about 32mm with a 15mm hole and 3mm thick. I got some but they dont look correct. Wadkin washers always have a little chamfer.








    Double mitres are rocking horse poo and when they come up for sale go for about £700. I had some cast in bronze a couple of years back. The price wasn't that bad, I think it was about £150 per section then the machining. I went to one place and they wanted £300 per section to machine. I contacted Mr Doubleboost and a guy he knows did 3 sections for £400.





    Im not sure how to finish them, do I clean up the non machined part or paint them.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Got the tags cleaned up





    I put a tag on the break box to make it look more wadkin, this will be getting bolted to the back





    I need to find something to make a new on button

















    This is what the sliding table frame sits on, it can be adjusted to set the level with the main table











    I had a bunch of riving knife brackets made a couple of years ago, I just need to find a suitable threaded rod, nothing I have fits








    I wanted a crown guard in keeping with the saws age so put my feelers out, a trip to halifax and a few quid poorer





    It has some damage which I'm hoping I can braze up



  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    456

    Default

    The crown guard had some holes drilled into it and some damage, so I thought I would try and braze it.





    As I was brazing I noticed a hair line crack appear. I think it would of been better doing it with the mig using bronze wire, then their wouldn't have been so much heat.





    A bit fugly





    The nose piece was missing but I had one in my stash.














    This must of been off a smaller saw because the bar is too small for a pk, luckily again I had a longer one in my stash








    I needed a table stop for the slider





    The knurled knob is not my work, I had a batch of them done off doubleboosts pal who does the cnc stuff




















    No presests in the table

































  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,818

    Default Details.

    Quote Originally Posted by wallace1973 View Post
    ...No presests in the table


    Nope. No plunger on the main mitre if this 1929 catalogue cut can be relied upon.



    Certainly your protractor is the correct style.




    And I see on that tilt mechanism boss - where yours has an oiler, the catalogue shows a locking tee handle...





    ...the locking tee handle on yours being around the side.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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