Thread: wadkin RB restoration

Originally Posted by wallace1973

... I never knew 75Okg could bounce but it did, half pike double twist and back slap. This was a really nice machine amazingly no hand wheels broken

Oouch!

I guess you're still talking to the carrier and his insurer?!

Cheers, Vann.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...Heres the RB,



This is the first single phase wadkin I've come across and dates from 1934





...

I like the way you just get stuck in and rip the thing down in a day or two - unlike me. I tend to agonise over every detail. Of course this means that you will no doubt complete this long before I complete either of my RBs.

Interesting that that huge brute of a motor is original ("Made for Wadkin & Co..."). Interesting that it's 2hp - as my 1926 RB is only 1.5hp, I wondered if a single phase machine might be similar. And interesting that it runs at 1450rpm - not 2800rpm like most RB motors - which means the pulley must be twice the circumference of standard 3-phase RBs.

Cheers, Vann.

I wonder if they upped the hp to account for it being single phase, the pulley is a big thing about 1O"

To clean any machined surfaces I like to use scotchbrite and brake cleaner. I don't like using wire wheels because it can ruin the surface.

Wadkin even stamp the ways so you don't mix parts up

Everything derusted and degreased


I like to give stuff a coat of zinc primer before I do any fill work

Sometime your the hammer sometimes your the nail... At least not a write-off!

Whats your procedure to strip down ready for paint as in something like this:

1) De-grease dissolve the bulk of any gunk
2) Pressure hose to remove any gunk
3) Wire brush to remove paint/surface rust
4) Metho wipe down - how do you get the last bit of residue off to ensure paint will stick and go on smoothly?
5) Etch Primer first coat - How long do you wait primer and finish coats?

I am about to embark on this in the near future.

Charlie it depends on what I'm starting with. On the top casting the original paint was in good shape so I see little point in removing everything. So I will degrease with brake cleaner and scotch brite then I will sand then I will panel wipe followed by primer.
For the base it was in poor shape around the bottom, it must of stood on a damp concrete floor so it was very rusty. I used a flapper disc in the grinder to remove rust and loose paint.Followed by a wire wheel. Then I degreased and primed with zinc primer which inhibits rust.
I understand that for good adhesion it is best to spray as quickly as possible after prepping. I keep a tin of etch primer handy so if I'm working on a small part that needs priming I don't need to mix paint up and clean the gun.
After the first coat of primer I will do bondo work if needed I like to use aluminium filler because its harder than the normal car stuff and finishes nice. I will then use a filler primer. I can then do the top coats. I leave 24hrs between primer and top coat

Originally Posted by wallace1973

I wonder if they upped the hp to account for it being single phase, the pulley is a big thing about 1O"

Most RB surface planers are 2 hp. It's just the very early ones (like my RB 116) that have the smaller 1.5hp motor. I wondered if the single phase machine might have been treated as the poor cousin and only have a 1.5hp motor too (obviously not).

As a general rule of the thumb it appears Wadkin supplied 1 horsepower per 4" of cutterblock:
9" surface planers (RB & RV): 2hp;
12" surface planers (RD & RZ): 3hp;
16" surface planers (RD & RZ): 4hp;
20" surface planer (RZ) & planer/thicknesser (RM): 5hp (although the 24" RM was also only 5hp)

Cheers, Vann.

Thanks Wallace,

Would you say, this stuff Turbo 500ml Metal Builders Bog | Bunnings Warehouse would be any good to fill voids?

Cheers
Charl

Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft

Thanks Wallace,

Would you say, this stuff Turbo 500ml Metal Builders Bog | Bunnings Warehouse would be any good to fill voids?

Cheers
Charl

I don't see why it wouldn't work. This is the stuff I use https://www.carcolourservices.co.uk/product/novol-for-classic-car-aluminium-putty/

Thanks Wallace - I think I'll go with this stuff: Troton Aluminium Body Filler 1KG

A bit more progress, I ran out of ali filler so had to use standard bondo.


The fence looks crusty but cleaned up well


The tables look worse than they are

The steel lips have a bit pitting but the cast iron is clean

A bit more done.





That was a few hours well spent

I got the head cleaned and back in

The bridge guard got damaged in transit, so I heated it up and hit it lots of times to straighten

I was a bit more gentle with the brass bit, just a bit of heat and twisted it with stilsons, then a couple of slight bashes with a hammer


I like to use thing which came from a car boot sale in the drill to start prepping the brass


sanded to 5OOgrit




I found this inside the motors connection box


Big cast iron pulley wheel, it had partial holes drilled into the backside to balance it.


I flushed the bearings and blew the motor out. I was going to take it to bits completely but the end bells were very reluctant to come off so I left well alone.

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...

This is the first single phase wadkin I've come across and dates from 1934...

Originally Posted by wallace1973

...I found this inside the motors connection box
RB motor.jpg ...

It's always comforting to find evidence to back up a date. In the bottom RH corner of that piece of paper it says "3rd Imp. 0233" which would mean 3rd impression (printing) February, 1933 - which supports this RB being manufactured around 1934.

Cheers, Vann.

Just about completed. I thought I'd have a play with matt paint








I needed a starter and found this cool thing in my stash. shame its only 2.8 amps so no use.

New old stock


As you can see I need to touch up some paint that's been dragged off by the masking tape. I ran out of yellow frog tape so had to use regular stuff which is horrible stuff.











And for all you wadkin geeks out their, here's a 'treat especial'.
Wadkin had an in house photographer who would do the machine photos for catalogues, he would visit work places where there machines were used. This dates from the 193O's