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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Default Cutterblock Completion - pt.1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Next jobs are to find the spacer, key and nut for the pulley - and to fit the knives and the other two 'clamshells'...
    After a lot of searching I found the spacer (and the one for my other RB) and the nut - but couldn't find the key anywhere.

    RB 555.jpg Newer RB pulley, spacer and nut (top), older RB gear and spacer (bottom).

    So I used the tried and true, proven, Murphy's Law method - and bought a short length of 5/16" key steel - which means the old key suddenly appeared .

    RB 556.jpg

    A trial fit of the spacer and key.

    RB 557.jpg

    Then full assembly.

    RB 558.jpg RB 559.jpg

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,818

    Default Cutterblock Completion - pt.2.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Next jobs are to find the spacer, key and nut for the pulley - and to fit the knives and the other two 'clamshells'...
    I found those spacers in the box that stores the knives. I decided to fit the original knives for now.

    I didn't know about balancing the studs and nuts to within 0.2g until I started my RB projects (my Makita thicknesser uses disposable knives that never need weighing). But even I knew that resharpenable knives are always balanced.

    Well nearly always... apparently . One knife weighed 176.1g, but the other weighed 177.4g . A bit of careful grinding - I took a bit off each end of the heavier one (top) 'til I got it down to the same weight.

    RB 562.jpg RB 563.jpg Genuine Wadkin knives .

    Then on to the cutterblock, adjust to approximate position, fit the 'clamshells', and slightly tighten.

    RB 561.jpg

    RB 560.jpg

    Final knife setting will come later. I'm intending 80ft/lbs torque on the nuts ('though I have heard higher).

    Next steps will be reassembling the motor (which is not original to this machine) and some work on the electrics, as every bit of original electrical equipment was stripped from the buzzer by a previous owner - I would guess as a step toward conversion to single phase.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    629

    Default

    Awesome work Vann - a shelix cutterhead in one of these would go awesome but thats just me dreaming!

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,818

    Default Motor - pt.1.

    My original plan was to fit either this 2.5hp Brooks motor...

    RB 513.jpg

    ...or this 2hp Crompton-Parkinson motor.

    RB 514.jpg

    But both were 1400rpm motors, while the original ran at 2800rpm. I could still use one, but would need a much larger drive pulley to get the cutterblock running at the required speed. Both would also need adaptor plates to fit the RB motor shelf.

    And I still had the motor off this rusted Wadkin CK radial arm saw.

    RB 504.jpg

    I suspected it would be munted, but a megger test said it was still okay. And it's 2hp 2800rpm. So I took it to bits, cleaned it up, cleaned out and regreased the bearings, and repainted the case. I also made up an adaptor plate out of a piece of scrap (not quite wide enough - but near enough.

    Yesterday I trial fitted the adaptor plate to the motor case, and this morning I cut off the protruding shaft.

    RB 565.jpg RB 566.jpg

    RB 567.jpg The other large hole was already in the plate when I got it.

    The three screws in the adaptor plate pick-up existing holes in the motor case. The forth screw hole is blocked by an original broken off screw. I think I'll drill and tap two or three more holes for two or three additional screws (although it feels quite firm as is).

    Next I need to position the motor in roughly the correct position on the motor shelf to refine the adaptor plate. To do this I needed to reassemble the motor. I fitted the end bell (and forgot to take any photos as it was being assembled).

    RB 564.jpg

    Then fitted the rotor and bell to the case (without the stator at this point).

    RB 568.jpg The heater is to warm the case so the ball bearing race sides in easily.

    And a trial fitting.

    RB 569.jpg The vee belt is off my compressor - and is far too long.

    The adaptor plate needs shortening and I'm sure there'll be several more mods before it's ready for final fitting. But, small steps...

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,818

    Default Was Ist Das?

    And that's near my total German vocabulary .

    RB 570.jpg

    It's for a change in plans. I was going to use these 1974 On/Off switches, as the screw holes are still in the same location as the original RB On/Off switches of ~28 years earlier...

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    It'll also need On/Off buttons.

    I acquired this off a damaged 1974 Wadkin CC.

    RB 516.jpg

    Now freed-up, cleaned-up and painted. It would have once been labelled "Wadkin Controls" but that lettering has long gone.

    RB 515.jpg...
    ...but some of the contacts are very close to the cast iron surrounding the opening. I really don't want to risk a 400v short circuit when switching on the machine .

    Another complication is the switchgear...

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    In October last year I bought this seized wreck for $60, for parts.

    RB 504.jpg...

    ...In addition to a supply of knobs, Whitworth bolts, and a handwheel, this saw provided some parts suitable for a 2hp RB buzzer - including 2hp switchgear identical to this (but with contacts in better condition).

    RB 505.jpg...
    ...which appears to be suitable, and in good condition - but I've decided to pass it on to another Wadkin CK owner who has modern switchgear on his and would like something more original.

    So now the plan is to fit this MEM Series #4 DOL starter, to that weird thing (bracket) in the first photo...

    RB 571.jpg

    ...and attach it to the machine stand using the On/Off switch plate holes.

    RB 572.jpg Trial fitting.

    So why does the bracket stick up above the DOL starter? Well it's because I've never set up a buzzer cutterblock before and I'm very nervous about starting it for the first time (you know, flying knives and other possible things that could go wrong). So for the first few start-ups I'm going to use this VFD (which I bought for my Wadkin LP recessor - which is also 2hp).

    RB 573a.jpg Trial fitting.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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