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  1. #1
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    Default Wadkin ME restoration

    While I'm waiting for my right arm to start working again following a waterski accident as Christmas, I've decided to do a full restoration of my old Wadkin chain and chisel mortiser to get it going. I've pulled it down to clean and re-paint all the painted surfaces and clean/polish all shiny the parts. There are so many parts!!

    I would like to keep it original as possible so following reading many posts here, I am convinced Wadkin grey is the color.

    My question is, does anyone know the "code" for Wadkin grey? The original paint is in poor condition so i don't think using it as a sample will work. I plan on using a spray gun.

    What type of paint is best suited, enamel, 2 pack, hamertone??

    Also, would you try and fix the damaged Wadkin logo on the side? It's a pitty but looks like a huge amount of work to fashion some steel and secure to the machine to repair the W. It was a nice find as it was hidden under the old on/off switch.

    Cheers,

    Andrew
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  3. #2
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    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Default

    Hi Andrew. Welcome to the Wonderful World of Waddy Wallies.

    Quote Originally Posted by ab1 View Post
    I would like to keep it original as possible so following reading many posts here, I am convinced Wadkin grey is the color.

    My question is, does anyone know the "code" for Wadkin grey? The original paint is in poor condition so i don't think using it as a sample will work. I plan on using a spray gun.

    What type of paint is best suited, enamel, 2 pack, hamertone??
    Mark ("wallace" on Canadian and British forums) reckons the best match is RAL 7011. I took this code down to our local paint manufacturer and they mixed me up a tin of grey that looks about right. I think grey's almost certainly correct for your pre-1937 Wadkin - so don't let Alli talk you into any shade of green (especially without a RAL code).

    I might be a peasant, because I bought an oil-based enamel, and I brush paint it (over primer on bare steel). Others, with more time, skill (and patience), grind, fill, and spray their machines with two-pot paints.

    Quote Originally Posted by ab1 View Post
    Also, would you try and fix the damaged Wadkin logo on the side? It's a pitty but looks like a huge amount of work to fashion some steel and secure to the machine to repair the W.
    I'm probably not the right guy to answer (see above), but others have built up missing or badly cast lettering with metal, bog (bondi) and no doubt other materials.

    I look forward to following your rebuild/repaint.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #3
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    Jul 2009
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    ottawa canada
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    As Vann said an epoxyBlondo filler to build up mission portions of the letters . I use a product called JB weld . And then work it was a die grinder to shape . I spend an abnormal amounts of time perfecting the wadkin cast logo letters that of course without exception should be picked out in red . Wadkin did use lead fillers to perfect casting imperfections but i'm suspicious that very early machines World War I era this casting filler was omitted . It's probably the best filler you could ever buy if you could buy it now but of course it contains massive amounts of lead . Care should be taken to collect and dispose of the residue properly and also the use of pressure washer is probably the safest . For paints I used oil enamel although this is getting very hard to come by. I'm currently using a polyurethane modified direct to metal paint which is of a high solids and so makes for good feeling of minor casting imperfections if you're going for the shocker restoration .
    All tools can be used as hammers

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    I took a piece of a friends PK down to Paint spot in Moorabbin and they mixed me up a 4 litre can of fast dry enamel matched to that . They don't need to see much to be able to do that , 1 cm 2 is enough. Is there not enough to get a sample off your machine ? What I matched it to was a PK of similar date to my one which has the same colour, but my one is under a layer of green .
    I have another Wadkin PK miter fence which has its original paint and this is a different grey to the lighter grey of my 1950s PK, this miter fence (with pattern makers mark of PJ I think ??) is early, more like late 1930s to 1940s with a guess . This darker Grey ,which looks like it has a bit more blue in it , is a nice colour. It looks similar to Jacks PK colour to my eye I think. That early grey may be the right one for that sweet ME of yours rather than the later light one . I am considering doing some of my restos if I repaint , that colour.
    I can be of help matching to my fence if you need to go that way . Or I have a 4 litre can of the other later stuff mixed and matched if you want to go that way with the fast dry enamel. The mixing code may be on the can , I forget but will look .
    Rob

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
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    Default

    I was powder coating a wadkin LP machine last year and found that "colour bond"
    "Ironstone"was also a close match.

    Melbourne Matty.

  7. #6
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    Hi Van,

    RAL 7011 is a great start. The casting looks reasonably good.

    Rob, I think your suggestion of taking a sample down with me is a good idea too. Might see if I can lift a small square to take with me. I was thinking enamel as it is much cheaper than 2 pack.

    I do like the darker color similar to the colorbond ironstone. I like the dark grey with the touch of blue with red lettering and the black on the hand wheels similar to a saw in another thread.

    I've got the main section pulled apart and have applied some epoxy resin and Q-cell filler. I was going to use car bog but realised I had the resin. There are a bunch of small tapped holes around the Wadkin lettering that are not required. It's sanded using an orbital sander with 180 grit disc for large flat areas and a 3m scotch bright pad for the rest. The scotch pad worked well, especially on the curved surfaces. I'm currently applying marking tape to the areas I do not want paint ready for the primer.

    20160424_093420_resized.jpg20160424_093404_resized.jpg

    Parts everywhere!! It's a big job but it's worth it.

    20160424_082726_resized.jpg

    Cheers,

    Andrew.

  8. #7
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    First cote of primer added today with my trusty new $35 gravity feed spray gun from the local cheap tool shop. I'm very surprised at how well it went. I called past the paint shop and also picked up the color. I ended up going with Enamel RAL 7021. I took a part in with some paint left on it for a match as Rob suggested. It is a dark grey with a hint of blue very similar to the saw posted in the Extreme Wadkinitus forum. I do agree, green is not a consideration!! RAL 7011 is a lighter shade grey than I was looking for. Maybe more suited to newer machines?

    20160426_183144_resized.jpg

    It's coming up so well that I have been inspired to spend some more time and fill some of the casting imperfections for a better finish.

    Being that I prefer to work with timber, and also being limited with only 1 arm, I have cut the missing W piece in Wadkin out of a bit of scrap redgum and epoxied it to the machine. With a bit more filler, I think it will come up well. While not as strong as steel, it's faster, easier and should not be too susceptible to mechanical damage that high up. As it's glued to the primer, I think it will stick. I'll post more photo's once the filler is applied.

    I'm looking for some info on the arm that the chain and chisel levers return to. The one on the machine appears to be not original. I would like to try and make a copy of the original as the existing consists of a bit of 25mm angle and 20mm pipe.

    Also, if anyone has a spare chain grinder just laying around , I could be in the market.

  9. #8
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    Aug 2012
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    Brisbane
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    Hi Andrew, congratulations on the effort so far. I have the smaller Wadkin MF version which I'll be stripping and restoring. What's been the most challenging part of the disassembly so far?

    In regards to the return arm, I'll be back home in Brisbane Friday, which I'll be sure to get some measurements done for you, should the MF have a similar profile. Also to note, I believe Advanced Machinery in the UK sell that spare part, along with the collets and bushes, in case you decide to go down that path instead. And speaking of parts, I know a bloke in Brisbane that has a spare grinder attachment he was previously keen to sell. Freight may be a little costly, but if you're interested PM me and I can pay him a visit.

    Regards,
    Raymond.

  10. #9
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    Hi Raymond,

    I've sent you a pm. Thanks for giving me the heads up on the grinder. It would be nice to have a complete machine. Your MF will be great and well worth putting the time and effort in. Look forward to seeing it.

    The hardest thing so far has been pulling the clutch system and bevel gears apart for the chisel. Keep in mind that I've not yet started to dismantle the chain clutch system.

    I'm trying to restore it on a minimal budget, such as re-using all bearings that are in good condition. The machine would have close to a dozen imperial self aligning bearings. Best price I can get is around $80 for non Chinese or $40 for Chinese. I was quoted up to $220 per bearing from other places!! Luckly, it appears I only need to replace 1. I'm keen to try and replicate the return arm. While I'm very much a novice, I have an old steel Macson lathe if anything needs turning up.

    I also have to replace the motor. It appears the machine was once fed via a belt from an overhead line shaft. The motor mounting added to the back is not of Wadkin build quality. The plate on the side says it requires a drive shaft speed of 950rpm. The existing motor appears to be a 1440rpm. Although it does not have a name plate, the chain burnt the wood when used (even pine) and a horrendous noise came from the chisel drive, even without a chisel mounted. At 1440 rpm I calculate it is going 50% faster than it should which makes sense with the burning. After considering a VSD, I managed to score for $125 delivered at WEG 6 pole 940rpm 3 phase flange mount motor which will be perfect. I will have to make a new mount but it will fit into the back machine much better than the last.

    Andrew.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Have done a bit more work over the weekend.

    Added another cote of undercoat to the top. Photos show how rough the casting is.

    20160501_102826_resized.jpg20160501_102835_resized.jpg

    I've decided as I've come this far, I would add some filler and try and make it better.

    While waiting for paint and then filler to dry, I've turned rusty things into shiny things.

    20160430_153813_resized.jpg20160430_164938_resized.jpg20160430_152850_resized.jpg20160501_164111_resized.jpg

  12. #11
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    Default RAL 7011 vrs 7021

    I'm enjoying reading your posts - keep them coming. I particular I'm following your thoughts on repainting and filling, or not filling, as I often struggle with that.

    Quote Originally Posted by ab1 View Post
    I called past the paint shop and also picked up the color. I ended up going with Enamel RAL 7021. I took a part in with some paint left on it for a match as Rob suggested. It is a dark grey with a hint of blue very similar to the saw posted in the Extreme Wadkinitus forum. I do agree, green is not a consideration!! RAL 7011 is a lighter shade grey than I was looking for. Maybe more suited to newer machines?

    It's coming up so well that I have been inspired to spend some more time and fill some of the casting imperfections for a better finish.
    I read somewhere, where someone else opted for a darker grey than RAL 7011. Maybe I'm jumping the gun in pushing RAL 7011. I bought a can for touch-ups on my 1945 Wadkin PK, and was surprised how light it was (at first I wondered if they hadn't quite got the tint quantities right in the small [1 litre] tin). I've since used it on my 1951 RTA (lathe) where it looks just fine - but then the lathe has been completely repainted at some time, so there's nothing to compare it with. Maybe I'm getting used to the colour .

    Here's a pikkie of some PK crown guard components. From hi-viz (as repainted by PO); original Wadkin grey; and RAL 7011 (as repainted by me).

    aaa.jpg aab.jpg aac.jpg RAL 7011 - upper; Wadkin grey - lower.

    I'll stop rambling now .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Last edited by Vann; 1st May 2016 at 10:18 PM. Reason: 2 more photos added
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #12
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
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    This is the paint i use . Its a DTM high solids. If you have a Sherwin Williams paint store get it

    DTM Alkyd Enamel - Protective & Marine

    there stock color is called Graffiti and i would call it Wadkin and Co and was a perfect match to the Wadkin Gray. cost about $34 a gallon. I spray it with a cheap electric sprayer from the box store.



    All tools can be used as hammers

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgforsberg View Post
    This is the paint i use . Its a DTM high solids. If you have a Sherwin Williams paint store get it

    DTM Alkyd Enamel - Protective & Marine

    there stock color is called Graffiti and i would call it Wadkin and Co and was a perfect match to the Wadkin Gray. cost about $34 a gallon.
    US gallon or imperial gallon? What's a gallon anyway? (that's one measurement I'm happy to have converted to metric).

    A quick google suggests Sherwin Williams paint stores haven't made it to this part of the world - although there are limited outlets for their paints in both New Zealand and Australia (I could only find one in NZ).

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  15. #14
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    Ya still call the 4 liters a gallon. surly you guys have similar paint from your vendors. Ask about DTM
    All tools can be used as hammers

  16. #15
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    Damn that bandsaw is beautiful jgforsberg. What's model is that?

    Keep the updates coming ab1, loving your progress so far!

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

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