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  1. #76
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jgforsberg View Post
    Wadkin's method of removing tooling from the taper was to have flats for spaner so you could twist the taper loose whist the spindles is locked . Common Morris taper tooling with the drive key on the end will need to be ground off to fit in both head and tell stock tapers . I have just simply ground flats on off the shelf tooling and you'll need to use a grinding stone in a die grinder for the hardened dead centres . For Chuck's Oneway here in Canada makes an adaptor for the 1 3/8 X 6 BSW threads and also supplies on number of options that fit in the chuck Including Modern drive spurs with the spring-loaded centres . I find these actually quite convenient . Lastly the RS benefits greatly by a Morris 2 the Morris 2 extension in two ways . First it allows you to get closer behind the work near the head stock and secondly it allows morris 2 taper drill chucks and drill bitswith the drive key to fit .
    Thanks Jack. I didn't know about the flats. When the spur centre arrives I'll have to check it out and see where to grind/machine flats.
    I was considering a cheap MT2>MT1 adaptor to allow me to use my MT1 Jacobs chuck in the tailstock - and I'd figured I might need to grind the end off. Maybe I should order an MT2>MT2 at the same time.

    When I re-assemble the tailstock this weekend (I put the last coat of enamel on this morning), I'll check out why it wouldn't "self-discharge" the live centre. I may need an extension on the live centre or tailstock mandrel.

    As for a "real" chuck - I'll wait until I feei I could use one. I'm not sure I could turn brass or steel at 1500/3000 rpm - and without a proper toolpost.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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  3. #77
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    Default Tailstock Reassembly

    I spent some time today putting the tailstock back together.

    I'm not sure the bolt that clamps the tailstock to the bed is the original. The head is way smaller than the casting it sits in, leaving room to partly rotate...

    aRTA36a.jpg aRTA38.jpg aRTA37.jpg

    The washer that came with it is 42mm diameter, while the spotface is just under 36mm dia.

    aRTA35a.jpg

    I found a smaller dia. washer. The bolt is also about 1" longer than necessary. I'd have thought 1/8" to 1/4" over-length would be good design. 1" over-length makes me think it's from somewhere else.

    aRTA39.jpg

    I also found an old spanner that fits well. It's now painted Wadkin grey .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #78
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
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    266

    Default

    The bolt looks Wadkin the nut doesn't . Wadkin tailstock nuts are double tall for easy wrenching . I suspect the tall one was lost and of course you to have to make that in Whitworth. I don't think you'd want to head tight in there cause it wouldn't give you any slop in the hole which of course you need for adjustment The banjo
    All tools can be used as hammers

  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgforsberg
    The bolt looks Wadkin the nut doesn't . Wadkin tailstock nuts are double tall for easy wrenching . I suspect the tall one was lost and of course you to have to make that in Whitworth.
    Quite right Jack - I should have looked further before posting. I'm considering getting a tall nut made ($$$). I have Whitworth taps. One inch high?

    Matty's pikkie.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  6. #80
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    Default A Couple More

    Quote Originally Posted by clear out View Post
    I must admit they have completely slipped under my radar in the past.
    I was not at all aware of them until a post recently on the Canadian Forum.
    Ive never seen a mention in any of the catalogues I have or have looked at.
    And this was posted on the Canadian forum in November 2014...
    Quote Originally Posted by M.McKenna
    Glad to see someone found one out there in the wild. Nearly an extinct breed. About a year ago during a discussion about a Dominion lathe I was told that they did not exist.
    I've posted pictures of five so far, and have now tracked down two more.

    This one belongs to Adam Riley in the UK

    aRTA440a.jpg aRTA440b.jpg RTA 440 - Test No.51952- of 1955.

    The motor tag has both the Wadkin and BTH logos and states "BTH STATOR & ROTOR UNIT"

    aRTA440c.jpg

    While this one is at the Cowbridge Sawmill, in the UK.

    RTcowbridge.jpg Tailstock & banjo on the pallet. Headstock??? Numbers not known.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  7. #81
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I'm considering getting a tall nut made ($$$). I have Whitworth taps. One inch high?
    That nut looks very much like a coupling nut for joining lengths of allthread or Booker rod (threaded rod). Check with a fastener company if they have BSW thread, the common thread is UNC, which has a different thread pitch, and therefore not interchangeable. Bunnings would have them, but probably only UNC.
    Alernativley, you might be able to get a bit of hex bar offcut from a machine shop and dill and tap it yourself if you have the facilities.

    Hope this is of some help,

    Alan...

  8. #82
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    Feb 2009
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    moonbi nsw Aus
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    Default

    Alan....just for your memory bank, UNC and Whitworth will cross over each other even though they have different pitches. What I am saying is that you can mix any nut or bolt and it will work fine. The only size that will not mix is ½", it will bind. All other sizes will work with either
    But you probably knew that
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  9. #83
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    Dec 2007
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    Default

    UNC and Whitworth do have the same tpi except for 1/2 inch which is 13 and 12 tpi respectively.
    With a big enough spanner this shouldn't be too much of a problem.
    They should not be interchanged on automotive or motorcycle use as they do not hold effectively especially after being used a few times. This is a major problem on English vehicles that come to Oz via the U.S.
    I can probably source a nut for you Vann fron Civil Eng at Syd Uni.
    They have a stash of old Whitworth up to 3/4" at least from memory.
    What size thread was it?
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  10. #84
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    Default 5/8-inch Bristish Standard Whitworth

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Al
    That nut looks very much like a coupling nut for joining lengths of allthread or Booker rod (threaded rod). Check with a fastener company if they have BSW thread, the common thread is UNC, which has a different thread pitch, and therefore not interchangeable. Bunnings would have them, but probably only UNC.
    Alernativley, you might be able to get a bit of hex bar offcut from a machine shop and dill and tap it yourself if you have the facilities.
    Quote Originally Posted by clear out View Post
    I can probably source a nut for you Vann fron Civil Eng at Syd Uni.
    They have a stash of old Whitworth up to 3/4" at least from memory.
    What size thread was it?
    Thanks gentlemen, your thoughts are appreciated, but I already have a nut. Only it's a standard size 5/8" BSW nut, whereas Wadkin used an overlength nut (looks to be about 1" long). So I'm after a nut that is a genuine Wadkin overlength nut, or a reproduction (i.e 1.01" across flats), and it's the cost of a reproduction that will cost the $$$ (probably $50+ even with me doing the tapping). A 5/8" UNC nut is (from memory) 7/8" AF - no big deal, but nothing really gained. Drilling and tapping a short length of hex bar I could do, but it doesn't come in 1.01" AF.

    Henry, I don't suppose they'd have any overlength nuts at Syd Uni?

    Cheers, Vann (who doesn't mean to be an ungrateful ba$tard ).
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #85
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    Default Speed Control Handle

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I also checked out the handle on the speed selecting drum switch - which felt very sloppy. It turns out the handle should engage in a hole in the switch shaft - but the end of the handle is missing so it barely engages. I'll need to have that repaired.
    According to the cattledog cuts, contributed by Matty in post 12...

    "...A hand-operated change-pole controller is built into the headstock for starting and varying the speed of the motor. A detachable handle operates the control gear and also locks the spindle when changing face plates. This method prevents the motor being started when the spindle is locked..."

    The end of the detachabe handle looked like this

    aRTA41.jpg

    It's now back from repair, with a mild steel spigot (so as not to damage the drum switch shaft) and a HT locating pin on the side.

    aRTA42.jpg

    The handle slides down inside the casting like this.

    aRTA43.jpg

    The casting is not fixed to the drum switch shaft, but is free to rotate, retarded only by a spring loaded ball that locates in a slight depression (see pikkie above) in the casting when it is vertical.

    aRTA44.jpg

    So the switch can only be activated when the handle is inserted and the spigot engages the hole in the drum switch shaft.

    aRTA45.jpg aRTA44a.jpg Sorry about the fuzzy and clipped photos - the camera would not auto-focus on the parts wanted, in spite of several attempts. These photos are the best of a bad bunch

    Or the handle can be lifted and turned so that it's not engaged, to ensure the drum switch isn't switched.

    aRTA46.jpg

    But wait, there's more !! The handle can be removed completely and inserted in the hole in the top of the brake (LH end of headstock), to engage and lock the spindle .

    aRTA48.jpg aRTA49.jpg

    All in all, it's a bit over the top, and not foolproof - as the handle can be removed with the drum switch in either "Low" or "High" speed positions, and inserted in the spindle lock - negating all the clever design and failing to prevent "...the motor being started when the spindle is locked..." Nevertheless I'm sure I'll find having a spindle lock very helpful.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Last edited by Vann; 30th April 2016 at 10:23 PM. Reason: More photos and text added.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  12. #86
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    Alan....just for your memory bank, UNC and Whitworth will cross over each other even though they have different pitches. What I am saying is that you can mix any nut or bolt and it will work fine. The only size that will not mix is ½", it will bind. All other sizes will work with either
    But you probably knew that
    For some reason I assumed the thread was 1/2", dunno where I got that from. I have heaps of BSW bolts and nuts, and quite a bit of 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" UNC stuff, and as you say, is quite interchangeable for making jigs etc. The annoying thing is (for me) the A.F (across the flats) dimensions vary, so one can end up with different sized spanners on a job held together with numerous bolts. Always pays to check that they are all one breed or the other, saves a lot of colourful language!

    As for the requirement of about 1" AF hex bar, still might be worthwhile checking for offcuts with a machine shop.

    Alan...

  13. #87
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    Default

    Henry, I don't suppose they'd have any overlength nuts at Syd Uni?

    Cheers, Vann (who doesn't mean to be an ungrateful ba$tard ).[/QUOTE]


    Vann,
    Being the Structures Lab where they test a lot of steel product out of China they had some old longer nuts from memory in the store.
    I may even have some 1 inch steel hex in the shed, will have a look tomorrow.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  14. #88
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    Jul 2009
    Location
    ottawa canada
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    Default

    In the future the Wadkin temple will have in stock new Bronzes PK spindle nuts and a few other sizes in BSW. Matt Matt is making up what we are calling the Jackifided upgrades. I will post here when they're in stock. PK nut are only $75 and is surface ground so i can't see a 5/8 being $50 Vann.
    All tools can be used as hammers

  15. #89
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    Hi Vann,
    We have come up with a piece of hex and when we put the 3 jaw back on the lathe will size it and bore it.
    Probably run a 5/8 w tap up it if that's correct?
    The other pic is of the nut off my recently aquired RS, I thought they may have been the same size but as you can see not so.
    H.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  16. #90
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by clear out View Post
    The other pic is of the nut off my recently aquired RS...
    That's interesting that your RS nut is 28.06mmAF. All the bolt heads and nuts on my 1951 lathe are 1.01" - 25.65mm AF (the revised standard from WW2). Your nut appears to be nominally 1.10" - 27.94mm AF (the pre-WW2 standard). What year is your RS?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

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