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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    486

    Default Wolfenden Table Saw

    I bought this saw for a few reasons:

    1) It was smaller than my Dyco Table Saw and right now thats great as a I have little room to move. For a lot of stuff I cut I actually don't find I need anything bigger for my current projects.
    2) It's a good interim Table Saw for when I have more space and find me a Wadkin PK
    3) It was a decent price

    The saw is heavy ... really really heavy! I can't even lift one side of it by myself which makes me wonder how it'll go with the mobile stand I made for it. What you don't see in the picture below which I'll need to fit:
    • Overhead guard
    • Dust collection and under table blade cover
    • Motor / Drive belt cover


    It does seem to be missing a couple of things: A riving knife and the extension table wings on either side - both I don't care much for.

    20200607_092057_resized.jpg

    I partially stripped it down to do some re-painting and will get to the rest some time soon, I hope. I have put it together for now so I can actually use it. It came with a tiny motor which I'll replace with a 2 - 3HP 2800 rpm motor (current motor is 3/4HP 1425 rpm).

    20200528_191840_resized.jpg 20200530_142130_resized.jpg 20200601_124447_resized.jpg 20200604_155936_resized.jpg

    I couldn't find much on it. Below is a similar saw but looks to have some sort of side mortising/drill on one side.

    Screen Shot 2020-06-08 at 2.20.36 pm.jpg

    Also found this one thats pretty much the same but with an extension table off to the right hand side.

    Wolfenden Table Saw, 3 Phase, Auction (0009-3014266) | GraysOnline Australia

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    486

    Default

    This is the mobile base I made for it. Seems to be holding up OK. I had the saw weight (without the tabletop and fence) on it + my 84kg weight and seemed fine. Each angle iron support for the castors (rated at 100kg each) is attached with a 10mm bolt + 10mm HEX coach screws + 3 x HEX roofing screws.

    20200518_131038_resized_1.jpg 20200518_131119_resized_1.jpg

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    274

    Default variants on the theme and design

    Good to see another Aussie machine rebuild.
    I'm looking at pictures of Wolfenden saws 'cos I recently bought a 'Premo' (brand name used by Goodalls & Co), that looks the same design. Most Premo products (aside from the nice metal lathe) don't 'fess' up to the actual maker.
    Here is a similar Wolfie on FB marketplace (Buxton); cheers,
    AndrewOC
    Attached Images Attached Images
    'Waratah' spring hammer by Hands & Scott c.1911- 20, 'Duffy, Todd & Williams' spring hammer c.1920, Premo lathe- 1953, Premo filing machine.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Marrickville NSW
    Posts
    16

    Default

    For a second there I thought you had moved Andrew! Ad From Goodalls Catalouge for Premo Saw
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    The rise and fall seems to be a bit more modern on the Premo's. I have a vertical screw which lifts the bench top on my saw - this is probably one of the reasons the previous owner got rid of it as he was in retirement.

    The fence on these are identical from what I can tell.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    486

    Default

    Hey guys, been a loooong time since spending any time on getting some machines up and running. Anyway I have a pending need to get my table saw up and running. I'm just about to order the below pulley + belts which is all I need to get it operational again. These are necessary as the previous arbor speed was a mer ~1000rpm as it had a 1425rpm motor driving a large diameter pulley. The extra RPM will be a HUGE improvement, I was going to bump it up to ~3500rpm arbor speed but I was a little restricted in the type of pulley I was after.

    Qty Taper Lock V Pulley
    1 SPA Taper Lock V Pulley (1108/1008) 63mm, 2 Groove Cast Iron SPA63-2
    Taper Lock Bush
    1 1008 Series 20mm Bore 6 x 6mm Key Taper Lock Bush
    V-Belt
    2 SPA 1475mm (outside diameter)

    Anyway I should probably grease the shaft, can anyone recommend the correct crease I should use? For my Wadkin Bandsaw I've been recommended to use Mobilgrease xhp 222. Will this be suitable for a faster turning arbor? With the pulley setup and motor speed (2950rpm) arbor speed will be running at 2500rpm.

    Grease:
    Screen Shot 2020-09-23 at 10.45.59 am.jpg

    Arbor:
    20200923_104018_resized.jpg

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    ...I should probably grease the shaft, can anyone recommend the correct crease I should use? For my Wadkin Bandsaw I've been recommended to use Mobilgrease xhp 222. Will this be suitable for a faster turning arbor?...
    I'm not an expert (so ignore this if someone more knowledgeable comes along) but I would think the XHP 222 grease would be fine.

    I would however suggest cleaning out any old existing grease if you can. There could be compatibility problems, but I'd worry more about the existing grease being past it's "use by" date and possibly contaminated (most likely by water). Also, is there an exit for used grease? As you pump in new grease is there somewhere for the older grease to go?

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  9. #8
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    486

    Default

    Thanks Vann, I did do a surface read online and it does seem like XHP 222 is used for a variety of applications. I've actually got to borrow a grease gun off my dad as I don't know if there is any exits BUT there is a bit of muck around the pillow blocks. I am actually thinking of stripping down the entire body + pillow blocks etc and restore it properly/completely - then it's done and not 1/2 done... watch this space

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    67
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    2,694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...Also, is there an exit for used grease? As you pump in new grease is there somewhere for the older grease to go?
    I believe the free space in a bearing race should be 1/4 to 1/3 full of grease. Any more and it begins to hinder the rotation of the balls/rollers and this can cause heating/over-heating.

    So apparently there needs to be a way for old grease to get out when new grease is pumped in.

    What puzzles me is: when you install the grease-packed bearing, then put the bearing cap on, there's still a lot of air space beside the bearing. So it would take maybe 10 or 20 six-monthly greasings before any new grease is forced into the bearing itself. Therefore it could be 5-10 years before the bearing receives fresh grease. Is that okay and expected? Or should the bearing cap also be filled with grease?

    Did I mention that...
    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    ...I'm not an expert...
    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #10
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    I went to connect up a motor (run of the mill Chinese 3HP motor) to the saw on the weekend. The motor comes with a Double Pole Single Phase Safety Switch
    (KJD178 IP55).
    This is pretty handy but incorporates a little bit of complexity as it has two leads running to the motor. 1) The power source 2) The actual ON/OFF switch

    When I did a test run I realised the motor is spinning clockwise. On any other motor I've had it's had a terminal box and you can just switch around bridging to re-configure it per instructions on the motor. On this motor it doesn't have a terminal box OR instructions. I assume it can be reversed (can't be more than about 10yr old motor). From the drawing I've done up is someone able to advise what config needs to change to make it go anti-clockwise?

    Wiring.jpg

  12. #11
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    Ignore the above, Bob has answered my question here: Reverse Single Phase Motor - Re-wire

  13. #12
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  14. #13
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    Default


    Disclaimer - I am 99.9% sure this is not the done thing BUT I did it anyway. I made a wooden facia for a new switch and mounted it on the saw with a brand new 2HP single phase motor. As an after thought I possibly should have gone for a 3HP motor but the price on the 2HP was just too good!

    The Budgeroo (Lysicarpus angustifolius) is mounted on some thin ply to mount it.

    20201103_123859_resized.jpg

    I picked up a junction box from Bunnings to house all the electrics.
    20201103_123908_resized.jpg

    There was an original 3 phase Nielsen switch which I'll keep for another day.
    20201103_144324_resized.jpg

    Motor mounted and all wires run.

    20201103_144433_resized.jpg

    Saw still needs to be taken back to bare metal and re-painted.

    Parts list:

    Aliexpress - $7.20 - 250V 16A IP54 Start Stop Switch No Volt Release With Emergency Stop Waterproof Push Button Electromagnetic switch for machine
    Bunnings - $6.26 - Deta Junction Box
    Bunnings - $1.25 - EPA 16mm Nylon Cable Gland x 2
    Bunnings - $13.60 - HPM 5m Heavy Duty Tradesman Extension Lead
    Various wiring connector terminals

  15. #14
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    Geez it's been quit in the Antique & Vintage forum. I finally got everything out of storage and into my garage (which is now very crowded) but beats paying storage fees! I've got this saw up for sale now. I really struggled to let it go half finished but just need space.

    I've got 3 days off between Boxing Day & the New Yrs Weekend am toying with finishing off the repaint. I wouldn't be doing it to make money off it but more so just to complete it!

  16. #15
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    Default

    Well I just could help myself - the intent was to give this saw another life, possibly another 100yrs of service and preserve a bit of Australian history. I poured a good 2 days of effort into finishing the saw and am glade how it turned out. Given there is so little online about these saws I'll leave some pics here for record keeping....

    20230110_183758_resized.jpg 20230110_183929_resized.jpg 20230110_183813_resized.jpg 20230110_183858_resized.jpg 20230110_183850_resized.jpg 20230110_183748_resized.jpg 20230110_183948_resized.jpg. 20230110_183920_resized.jpg

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