YOUR ATTENTION PLEASE, your attention.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
doug3030
1095 sawplate is tempered to 48-51 Rockwell, I think.
Your drill bit would be Carbide which would handle that ok, and once through, I could probably get one of my Cobalt drills to widen it a bit.
The other possibility is to get out the MAPP torch and temper the part of the sawplate that will be inside the handle back a bit further and use a cobalt bit.
1095 is hard
It’s not so much what the drill bit is made of(I’m sure it’s just drill steel) it’s the cutting geometry of it.
I can’t remember excalty what it’s called but it works very well.
Doug don’t go near the saw plate with heat you will ruin it.
Cheers Matt.
Edit [emoji849] it’s called a spade bit,
YOUR ATTENTION PLEASE, your attention.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Bushmiller
Matt
IanW put me on to the tungsten carbide, triangular, tile drills. They work very well, but don't press too hard before the hole starts to appear as the point can shatter. A reamer is the best tool for opening up the hole, but a chainsaw file can be substituted.
Regards
Paul
Paul,
I’ve used the tile bits on tiles no problem use them all the time!
I tried once on some scrap 1095 and couldn’t get it to work.
From memory I tried it dry and also tried it with some cutting fluid(The metal work type) in a drill press.
Do I need to revisit this black magic art form.
It seems a very contentious issue when talking saw steel and holes[emoji849].
Oddball would have the answer tho lol.