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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    5

    Default Inlay on painted timber

    Hi there,
    I put 5mm wide timber inlay into a little timber walnut box sand and clear coat itís fairly simple.
    I would like to build a little box with inlay but paint it black instead of clear coat . I canít work out how to sand job then paint it with the inlay ,
    Masking inlay then paint ? When I remove masking tape Iím left with a small trench in the finish.
    Any help much appreciated
    Roy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    522

    Default

    Can you leave the inlay slightly proud of the surface then paint? {that is, sand then inlay then paint }. Then carefully sand the inlay down to flush? You might need to clear coat the lot afterwards.

    Or mask it off, paint then clear coat to fill the hollow?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,913

    Default

    If you want to paint the box black and not the inlay... Paint the box then do the inlay.

    If you want to paint the inlay black. Paint it with small brush and go very carefully around the edges with a very small pointed brush. although it seems a waste to paint the inlay black. Might just as well paint the the area of the box where inlay was to go, black and forget about the inlay.

    Sorry if I'm not quite understanding the idea of what you want to do.

    Cheers - Neil

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2022
    Location
    canada
    Age
    28
    Posts
    5

    Default Inlay on painted timber

    Step 1:

    It is necessary to create this effect over an unfinished floor. You can start on a newly installed wood floor, you may wish to refinish an existing floor therefore having the floor finish stripped, or you can isolate the area you would like the border to be and sand that area only, exposing raw wood. Which ever method works best for you, using this technique on unfinished floor boards will create an authentic inlayed appearance.




    Step 2:
    I begin mapping out my boarder dimensions using a pencil and tape measure. For most floors a 6 inch to 8 inch border width is ideal. I first create a frame as a holding line for my border pattern, usually about Ĺ inch thick for the inside and outside boundary of my pattern. Starting 1 Ĺ inches away from the wall edge, I begin marking my guide lines with a pencil. I mark at the 1 Ĺ inch, 2 inch then again at 7 inches and 7 Ĺ inches. This makes my entire boarder thickness at 6 inches, with a 5 inch center field.




    Step 3:
    The center pattern will consist of a simple pattern repeat. Iíve sketched out the pattern on tracing paper and after making a few adjustments, I cut the form out of a cardboard panel. This will act as my template.




    Step 4:
    Placing the template into position between the boarder frame lines I trace the shape, continuing down the length of the floor, until I have reached the opposite side.




    Step 5:
    Using a metal straight edge and a sharp razor blade or matt knife, I carefully cut along my pencil outlines. The purpose of this is to create a clean inscribed line across the wooden floor boards. When the fluid wood stain is applied to the raw wood, the incised lines will prevent the stain from bleeding past the line, creating a crisp, sharp edge to the stained Ďinlayedí shape.




    Step 6:
    Using my No. 4 brush, I apply the Dark Walnut wood stain to the outside Ĺ inch border frames. When applying the wood stain, set the brush within an 1/8th inch away from the incised edge. The raw wood will naturally pull or soak up the wood stain, drawing it outward. Keeping the stain just inside the cut edge will allow the wood to draw the color to the boarder and stop at the incised line.




    Step 7:
    I repeat this process with the center motifs, painting every other segment in the Dark Walnut stain.




    Step 8:
    Next I apply the second wood stain, Cherry, to the remainder of the center motifs.




    Step 9:
    Iíve selected a star shape as a corner detail. I follow the same procedure use for the border. First I transfer my star pattern, followed by cutting the lines with a matt knife. The wood stain is then applied.

    Step 10:


    A latex satin sheen clear varnish should be applied to the entire floor as a sealer. Generally 2 to 3 coats are recommended. Use a short nap roller to apply the varnish. Roll the varnish in straight motions from one end of the floor to the other. Always roll in the direction of the wood grain. I use a brush to cut in the edges and corners.


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    963

    Default

    Bing,

    If Understand you correctly you want to paint the walnut box black but have an (unpainted) 5mm timber inlay sunk into the top level with the paint?

    Thatís a tough call to bring the two surfaces level without damaging the paint.

    My approach would be:

    Inlay the box first. DO NOT GLUE IN but make sure it is a good snug fit.

    Level the inlay to the top of the box with a scraper.

    Remove the inlay and replace with dummy pieces - its OK if these are a bit proud of the surface.

    Paint the box. For preference use spray paint as itís thinner or consider using a black dye stain.

    When dry, remove the dummy inlay and replace with the ďrealĒ inlay you thicknessed earlier.

    Test on a spare piece of timber first!!!

    If it were me I would dye stain rather than paint. Well, actually I wouldnít do that either as I like the colour of polished walnut

    Regards,

    Brian

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