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  1. #1
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    Default Royal Lac spray in a can

    Hi all, I was googling about and come across a lacquer in a spray can called Royal Lac. I think its made in India or somewhere like that. I think it was a combination of lacquer and shellac. Is there any similar products available in Australia, or alternatively what would one recommend for spraying small boxes with in the form of a lacquer. Just in a spray can, no compressors etc.

    Paul

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  3. #2
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    Hi Paul,

    I use Behlen’s Stringed Instrument lacquer (spray can) or Mirolac. The former can be found at luthier’s supplies such as luthiersupplies.com.au or guitaraust.com.au Mirotone Spraylac is available in spray cans at Carbatec. Both dry nearly instantly. You will need a very good mask to use these - a nuisance/dust mask will not protect your lungs.

    Brian

  4. #3
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    Hey there Brian, Thanks for your reply. You must keep your eyes on every section of this forum. I was just curious about a finish like this on boxes. So you put a few coats on in one go,,....sand between them,.?,....Rub after them,..?

    I've got a good dust mask, but problem here is my wife suffers very badly from asthma and allergies and smells I have to avoid. This would be in my shed of course, which is adjoined to the house. I dont have the luxury any more of a stand alone shed. Oil finishes like that tung oil are a definite NO NO for me.

    Paul

  5. #4
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    I quite like the Mirotone Spraylac; 3-4 light coats with a quick 240 grit rub between gives a beautiful satin finish that doesn't fill the grain like some of the other cans you get from hardware stores.

  6. #5
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    Hi Paul,

    Just happened along at the right moment

    This stuffs smells strongly and is pretty toxic in its airborne state. Fortunately it dries exceptionally fast and has no smell once it is dry.

    You definitely would not want to spray this when anyone else was around. I spray outside in the garden when nobody else is around. I use one of those little fold-up spray tents on a garden table. This helps stop the spray from being lost to wind gusts. A decent sized cardboard box on its side was what I used before the spray shelter. Its all a bit of a pain but the results are good.

    I sand to 400, clean up then start spraying. 2 coats 10 minutes apart, leave for half an hour, sand lightly with 600 grit then give it another 3 coats during the course of the day. Leave overnight, sand very lightly with 1200 then a light finish coat. I give it a day or two to settle then apply a couple of coats of Liberon Black Bison wax.

    Another approach (much friendlier) is to use shellac. This is by far my preferred method for finishing boxes. Iím a big fan of Neilís Hard Shellac diluted to 50%. I was taught to apply one coat by brush (work quickly, donít keep going over the same spot as it gets very sticky), let it dry, sand lightly with 600, apply further six coats with brush, let it dry, sand lightly with a grey Scotchbrite pad, then anther six coats. Sand with the grey pad then apply two final coats (no sanding) and allow to dry for two weeks.

    good luck!

    Brian

    PS if you go with shellac I highly recommend watching this video by finishing pro Peter Gedrys
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xErUsgT7f4M

  7. #6
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    Hi again Brian,

    Thanks for your comprehensive reply. I'll watch that video a bit later on, I see it goes for nearly an hour. That finish that you described with the shellac etc, wow, that sure does take some time and effort. What prompted me to ask the above question was seeing a box finished with lacquer. I have been very happy with my finishes but always like to see what else there is around.

    The finish I use is,.....Firstly I ROS to 2000 grit, 120, 240, 320, 400, 800, 1500, 2000. By now the box has a lovely smooth finish. Harder the timber the smoother it is. Then I apply one coat of Danish Oil, I make my own, much better than Bunnings ones, lasts to the final drop. Leave overnight. Next day I Danish Oil again but this time cut in with 1200 W&D, then wiped off. Leave Overnight. Next day rub light with 1200 dry w&D and then apply wax and buff in on a lambswood pad on my drill press. Next day same repeat that again.

    The finish by now is lovely and smooth.

    Back before we moved up this way, I had a sideline job from home, trophies and engraving. 20 years ago now. I was then making all my own bases, plaques, shields etc, and spraying them, had a small compressor outfit then. Was into tinting lacquer with about 5% rosewood or walnut FRS strain, an old german cabinetmaker showed me this technique. The finish was very full, glossy and nice.

    I can visualise you down in your garden doing that spraying,.....The jury will now deliberate on this.

    Paul

  8. #7
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    Hi Paul,

    I haven’t had much luck with Danish oil. The ones I’ve used have yellowed within months. I use quite a bit of light timber and light veneers so this has not looked good. Any ideas?

    You’ll see from the Peter Gedrys video that he doesn’t use many coats of shellac but I do it this way to ensure I’ve got enough to take a sand back and spiriting off with a rubber. It’s actually much faster than it sounds

    Tinting lacquer is something I’d love to learn. Must go and find myself an old German cabinet maker! It sounds like the Behlen or Mirolac aerosols would be a complete pushover for someone of your experience with spraying.

    Brian

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls321 View Post
    ....Was into tinting lacquer with about 5% rosewood or walnut FRS strain, an old german cabinetmaker showed me this technique.
    I used to use the same technique when finishing loudspeaker cabinets. Pity FRS is no longer available.

  10. #9
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    I didn't realise it was no longer available, I used to buy it in 4 litre tins, I used that much. Had to be the FRS stain, Wattyl made it. From memory when I was making shields and plaques, I used MDF, and when you routered into the MDF with roman ogee bits etc, for a nice edge, you broke away that nice smooth finish on the MDF. I used to seal that with shellac. I think I used Mirrortone lacquer with thinners and then 5% rosewood or walnut tint. Finish was very nice indeed.

    Brian, I am still thinking about that spraying of yours. And that's a bit odd that the Danish Oil does that to your timbers, even with the light timbers. Darker timbers come up veryyy nice. I'm currently making 5 boxes out of Golden Sasssafras, which was very light and blonde to start with. After applying my Danish Oil it has turned very golden. Looks quite nice really.

    Paul

  11. #10
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    Ive been using shellac in a hand pumped spray bottle . The bottle was an old half size thing of something like Armor All , some car upholstery spay I had used all up . The bottle still worked so I washed it out and kept it . Its a pretty nice way of doing small table and stool legs as well as tops. I also was using the shellac over water based Poly by Cabot's with this . No problems there either.
    It stuck well and went shiny . Avoids the yellowing problems with the control of a shellac shine at the end . The cabot's seems to give a good fast fill to the grain as well .

  12. #11
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    Keen on trying spray lacquer on some of my smaller projects, does anyone know where I can find it in Perth

  13. #12
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    OK Found some Mirotone Spraylac, JH Wilberforce in Malaga stocks it (around $25 a can)

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