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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    melbourne
    Age
    33
    Posts
    2

    Default attaching timber partition wall

    Hi!

    I hope someone will be able to help me.

    I want to make a partition wall with hardwood timber.

    not sure how to go about attaching them to the floor and ceiling, I want to have a gap free connection.

    here is a photo to see what I mean, this is no hardwood but just to get the idea.wall partition.jpeg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    melbourne
    Age
    33
    Posts
    2

    Default

    wall partition.jpegthis is the image

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    59
    Posts
    12,794

    Default

    That's not as simple as it looks.

    I think the most practical 'after market' method would be pairs of locating dowels in the floor, with matching pairs of 'sprung pins' in the ceiling. Installation would involve sitting the bottom of the board onto the floor dowels, sliding the top to butt against the sides of the sprung pins and then lifting those pins with a trowel or similar until the top slides into position and the pins drop down to lock the board in place.

    Mind you, accuracy is everything with this sort of job and not just in marking out and positioning the dowels/pins.

    You'd have to measure and cut each and every board to fit it's own spot, as house frames are very, very rarely built with cabinetmakers precision. More likely you'll have 5mm variation, possibly more.

    Another consideration is if someone leans against a board and bows it, so it 'shortens' and pops out of the dowel/pins. Sprung pins would allow a quick re-install, but that's still a PITA. Longer dowels/pins mean the board would need to be bent even further before it'd pop off, but the downside to that is it'd be more difficult to install in the first place.

    Also, sourcing suitable sprung pins may be a headache.

    Personally I'd prefer to build that sort of wall during basic house construction, screwing the tops of the board into a rafter or similar structure then plaster the ceilings afterwards... Fiddly, but more permanent.

    However I doubt that's an option for you in this case.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc (AKA "Ghost who posts." )

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    233

    Default

    Can you access the ceiling cavity above?
    If so, perhaps a board / beam across the top, with holes drilled through and into each post below then insert a dowel, or even a long bolt.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    23,545

    Default

    What is the cross sectional dimensions of the timber you plan to use?

    If it's thick enough then T-pieces made of 3mm steel or Al plate could be used, with pairs of these screwed to the floor and ceiling. Slots cut into the ends of each board would then allow the boards to be slid into place and fixed with a CS screw.

    The T-pieces could be powder coated to close to or the exact same colour at the timber, or (not my preferred option) if you wanted too retain a wood look could even be vinyl wrapped in some sort of timber look grain. Either way they would not be very visible but would require precision manufacture.

    If the boards are too thin but will be painted then C-channel can be used and a small rebate on each side to allow the timber to sit flush to the channel could look quite good.

    If the ceiling is just plaster the T OR C will need reinforcing from above.

    As Skewy says, a lot of work !

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    70
    Posts
    2,508

    Default

    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

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