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Thread: Challenge 20 - 21. Ironwood.
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30th October 2020, 09:50 PM #136SENIOR MEMBER
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Another one with a lathe and no milling machine. Maybe we could get a good deal on two.
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30th October 2020 09:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th October 2020, 10:12 PM #137
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31st October 2020, 09:12 AM #138
Well, that's how I did my first couple, before I got a lot better with the jewellers saw & figured out what blades to use. Sawing can be faster, & drilling out the waste leaves more filing to be done, but whatever seems to you to be the safe way is the best, you sure as heck don't want to wreck things at this stage! Watching videos of Bill Carter at work, I've noticed he still does a lot of waste removal by drilling & joining the dots, I've noticed, so you're in good company....
IW
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1st November 2020, 08:43 AM #139
This is yesterdays proceedings, I didnt get a chance to upload them last night.
I scribed a line in the centre of where the gap will be and centrepunched and drilled with a 1/8th bit. A couple ended up a bit crooked despite my efforts to keep things straight.
DSC_1538.jpg
Then I attempted to use a 6mm bit to open it up more. Some holes went better than others.
DSC_1543.jpg
I used a 7/32 chainsaw file to join a few of the holes so I could get a hacksaw blade in.
DSC_1544.jpg
This was the result after the hacksaw.
DSC_1546.jpgBrad.
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1st November 2020, 09:09 AM #140
This is my improvised anvil, its a pin out of the steering linkages on one of the trucks I work on, I sat it on a offcut from a Yellow Stringybark fencepost.
DSC_1547.jpg
I centrepunched and drilled, as you can see here to take a bit more metal out to reduce the amount I had to file.
In reality, I dont think this saved me any time, once I got the file in there, the waste came out pretty quickly.
I started with a 10 inch flat bastard ( interestingly it was a Nicholson, made in Mexico ) this file was just over 4mm thick.
DSC_1548.jpg
Then once I opened the gap up a bit, I got a 14 inch flat bastard, again a Nicholson, but this one was stamped Australia.
This file was taking about a quarter of a mm out with each swipe, so things went pretty quick.
I have widened the slot since this pic was taken. It is now 50.5mm, my blade is 50.8mm, so it still wont fit in the slot.
I think I will grind the blade to 50mm wide, as this should give clearance on the brass sides where they sweep back in .
If its still too tight there, I will taper the top of the blade to suit. I will be tapering the top section of the blade anyway, for aesthetic reasons.
DSC_1554.jpg
Onto making the chatter block today.Brad.
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1st November 2020, 09:35 AM #141GOLD MEMBER
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Looks good
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1st November 2020, 11:46 AM #142
Is this the old 2 inches = 50.8mm which everyone rounds down to 50mm scenario?
I find it annoying for the opposite reasons. It's damn hard to find proper 2 inch o1 tool steel and so many old planes have 2 inch blades - not 50mm.
The changeover to metric was about half a century ago and we are still suffering for it. We should have all stuck with cubits.
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1st November 2020, 01:24 PM #143
This blade came from the first of the Thumbsucker group buys, they were all made to imperial sizes if I remember correctly, so you are correct, it’s a 2” blade.
I did intend to use it full width, but my designing of the plane has unfortunately made it impossible to fit in at 2”, so I have had to take off 0.028” to make it fit between the sides, it now measures 50.1mm in the metric scale, I am hoping it still fits when I peen the sides to the sole, otherwise I might have to take a bit more off.
This plane will never get a different blade put in it, I think it would be highly unlikely to find anything available at 7.6mm thick, so the width it ends up at doesn’t really matter, it’s just a smoothing plane.
My guess is, it started out at 5/16th thick D2 plate, once they took off enough passes with the surface grinder to get it flat, they ended up at 7.6mm , or 0.299” , maybe if I measured the blade with an imperial micrometer, I would get 0.3”, maybe that’s what they aimed for, I doubt we will ever know now, it was so long ago.
But I do know where you are coming from, if you are wanting to make blades for older planes, or anything coming out of the states.
I work with both systems simultaneously when I am at work, and can convert the measurements in my head most of the time.
I work on large mining machinery, trucks mostly, they are a mix of metric and imperial, some of the components are assembled with imperial fasteners, and bolted to the truck with metric fasteners, a lot of the younger guys can’t tell the difference between the bolts, so we get a lot of stuffed threads, because they are trying to force a 10mm bolt into a 3/8 unc threaded hole, or a 5/8 unc bolt into a 16mm threaded hole, etc etc etc etc. And not many guys in the industry use hand tools much any more, it’s rattleguns for everything, that’s not a bad thing if they are used properly, but they can do a lot of damage in inexperienced or uncaring hands.Brad.
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1st November 2020, 01:27 PM #144
So you got over procrastinating, and well produced a mouth.
Looks good Brad.
Cheers Matt.
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1st November 2020, 01:33 PM #145
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1st November 2020, 02:50 PM #146
A quick couple of profile shots before I move on.
The sides of the blade still need a bit of cleaning up, but I will leave that until the final shaping is done.
The block of timber in the back is just a bit of scrap I cut with a 60 degree ramp for a file guide while I was filing the mouth.
I still intend to make a rear handle.
DSC_1558.jpg
DSC_1560.jpgBrad.
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1st November 2020, 08:34 PM #147
Brad
I am watching carefully how you blokes cut the mouths into your planes as in steel it is something I have never done.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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1st November 2020, 11:25 PM #148
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1st November 2020, 11:47 PM #149
I cut up a piece of the 6mm stainless plate for the chatter block. After cutting to size and shaping, I drilled 3 x 1/4'' holes, and drilled about 1mm in with a 7mm drill bit for the countersinks, and used some 1/4" 304 stainless rod for rivets.
The 304 is a bit different colour than the plate I am using, and they are visible after filing them flat. Oh well, too late now.
I think I bashed the rivets a bit too hard, as the plate deformed a bit around them. I didnt flatten the bottom fully, I will leave that until I peen the sides, and file the dovetails flat.
The photos are not the best, it was nearly dark on the verandah when I took them, almost needed to get the tripod out, the shutter speed was so low.
Still a bit more work to be done on the 60 degree ramp before I put the sides on.
I also filed a 75 degree ramp on the front of the mouth, it still has to be widened a bit more before the blade will come right through. I will leave that final fitting to much later, after I get the rear timber in place.
DSC_1561.jpg
DSC_1562.jpgBrad.
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2nd November 2020, 07:38 AM #150
Brad, getting rivet heads to disappear completely is more art than science, I've found!
Rather than have a 'private' discussion, I'll put my 2c worth in the "tips & techniques" section, we might get some helpful comment & ideas...
Cheers,IW
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