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  1. #136
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    Oct 2010
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    Another one with a lathe and no milling machine. Maybe we could get a good deal on two.

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  3. #137
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picko View Post
    Another one with a lathe and no milling machine. Maybe we could get a good deal on two.
    Could we make that three please.

    Cheers Matt.

  4. #138
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    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Well, that's how I did my first couple, before I got a lot better with the jewellers saw & figured out what blades to use. Sawing can be faster, & drilling out the waste leaves more filing to be done, but whatever seems to you to be the safe way is the best, you sure as heck don't want to wreck things at this stage! Watching videos of Bill Carter at work, I've noticed he still does a lot of waste removal by drilling & joining the dots, I've noticed, so you're in good company....
    IW

  5. #139
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    near Mackay
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    59
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    4,622

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    This is yesterdays proceedings, I didnt get a chance to upload them last night.
    I scribed a line in the centre of where the gap will be and centrepunched and drilled with a 1/8th bit. A couple ended up a bit crooked despite my efforts to keep things straight.
    DSC_1538.jpg

    Then I attempted to use a 6mm bit to open it up more. Some holes went better than others.
    DSC_1543.jpg

    I used a 7/32 chainsaw file to join a few of the holes so I could get a hacksaw blade in.
    DSC_1544.jpg

    This was the result after the hacksaw.
    DSC_1546.jpg
    ​Brad.

  6. #140
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    Apr 2006
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    This is my improvised anvil, its a pin out of the steering linkages on one of the trucks I work on, I sat it on a offcut from a Yellow Stringybark fencepost.

    DSC_1547.jpg

    I centrepunched and drilled, as you can see here to take a bit more metal out to reduce the amount I had to file.
    In reality, I dont think this saved me any time, once I got the file in there, the waste came out pretty quickly.
    I started with a 10 inch flat bastard ( interestingly it was a Nicholson, made in Mexico ) this file was just over 4mm thick.
    DSC_1548.jpg

    Then once I opened the gap up a bit, I got a 14 inch flat bastard, again a Nicholson, but this one was stamped Australia.
    This file was taking about a quarter of a mm out with each swipe, so things went pretty quick.
    I have widened the slot since this pic was taken. It is now 50.5mm, my blade is 50.8mm, so it still wont fit in the slot.
    I think I will grind the blade to 50mm wide, as this should give clearance on the brass sides where they sweep back in .
    If its still too tight there, I will taper the top of the blade to suit. I will be tapering the top section of the blade anyway, for aesthetic reasons.

    DSC_1554.jpg

    Onto making the chatter block today.
    ​Brad.

  7. #141
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    Oct 2018
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    Dandenong Ranges
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    Looks good

  8. #142
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Not far enough away from Melbourne
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    4,200

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    I have widened the slot since this pic was taken. It is now 50.5mm, my blade is 50.8mm, so it still wont fit in the slot.
    I think I will grind the blade to 50mm wide, as this should give clearance on the brass sides where they sweep back in .
    Is this the old 2 inches = 50.8mm which everyone rounds down to 50mm scenario?

    I find it annoying for the opposite reasons. It's damn hard to find proper 2 inch o1 tool steel and so many old planes have 2 inch blades - not 50mm.

    The changeover to metric was about half a century ago and we are still suffering for it. We should have all stuck with cubits.

  9. #143
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    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Is this the old 2 inches = 50.8mm which everyone rounds down to 50mm scenario?

    I find it annoying for the opposite reasons. It's damn hard to find proper 2 inch o1 tool steel and so many old planes have 2 inch blades - not 50mm.

    The changeover to metric was about half a century ago and we are still suffering for it. We should have all stuck with cubits.
    This blade came from the first of the Thumbsucker group buys, they were all made to imperial sizes if I remember correctly, so you are correct, itís a 2Ē blade.
    I did intend to use it full width, but my designing of the plane has unfortunately made it impossible to fit in at 2Ē, so I have had to take off 0.028Ē to make it fit between the sides, it now measures 50.1mm in the metric scale, I am hoping it still fits when I peen the sides to the sole, otherwise I might have to take a bit more off.
    This plane will never get a different blade put in it, I think it would be highly unlikely to find anything available at 7.6mm thick, so the width it ends up at doesnít really matter, itís just a smoothing plane.
    My guess is, it started out at 5/16th thick D2 plate, once they took off enough passes with the surface grinder to get it flat, they ended up at 7.6mm , or 0.299Ē , maybe if I measured the blade with an imperial micrometer, I would get 0.3Ē, maybe thatís what they aimed for, I doubt we will ever know now, it was so long ago.

    But I do know where you are coming from, if you are wanting to make blades for older planes, or anything coming out of the states.

    I work with both systems simultaneously when I am at work, and can convert the measurements in my head most of the time.
    I work on large mining machinery, trucks mostly, they are a mix of metric and imperial, some of the components are assembled with imperial fasteners, and bolted to the truck with metric fasteners, a lot of the younger guys canít tell the difference between the bolts, so we get a lot of stuffed threads, because they are trying to force a 10mm bolt into a 3/8 unc threaded hole, or a 5/8 unc bolt into a 16mm threaded hole, etc etc etc etc. And not many guys in the industry use hand tools much any more, itís rattleguns for everything, thatís not a bad thing if they are used properly, but they can do a lot of damage in inexperienced or uncaring hands.
    ​Brad.

  10. #144
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    So you got over procrastinating, and well produced a mouth.
    Looks good Brad.

    Cheers Matt.

  11. #145
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    Apr 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    So you got over procrastinating, and well produced a mouth.
    Looks good Brad.

    Cheers Matt.
    Cheers Matt. Yeah mate, got the mouth done.
    Still procrastinating over the chatter block though .
    ​Brad.

  12. #146
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    A quick couple of profile shots before I move on.

    The sides of the blade still need a bit of cleaning up, but I will leave that until the final shaping is done.
    The block of timber in the back is just a bit of scrap I cut with a 60 degree ramp for a file guide while I was filing the mouth.
    I still intend to make a rear handle.
    DSC_1558.jpg

    DSC_1560.jpg
    ​Brad.

  13. #147
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    Brad

    I am watching carefully how you blokes cut the mouths into your planes as in steel it is something I have never done.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #148
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    Apr 2006
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    near Mackay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Brad

    I am watching carefully how you blokes cut the mouths into your planes as in steel it is something I have never done.

    Regards
    Paul
    I'm just making it up as I go along Paul. But if my trials are any help to you, thats great
    ​Brad.

  15. #149
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    Apr 2006
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    I cut up a piece of the 6mm stainless plate for the chatter block. After cutting to size and shaping, I drilled 3 x 1/4'' holes, and drilled about 1mm in with a 7mm drill bit for the countersinks, and used some 1/4" 304 stainless rod for rivets.
    The 304 is a bit different colour than the plate I am using, and they are visible after filing them flat. Oh well, too late now.
    I think I bashed the rivets a bit too hard, as the plate deformed a bit around them. I didnt flatten the bottom fully, I will leave that until I peen the sides, and file the dovetails flat.
    The photos are not the best, it was nearly dark on the verandah when I took them, almost needed to get the tripod out, the shutter speed was so low.

    Still a bit more work to be done on the 60 degree ramp before I put the sides on.
    I also filed a 75 degree ramp on the front of the mouth, it still has to be widened a bit more before the blade will come right through. I will leave that final fitting to much later, after I get the rear timber in place.
    DSC_1561.jpg

    DSC_1562.jpg
    ​Brad.

  16. #150
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    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Brad, getting rivet heads to disappear completely is more art than science, I've found!

    Rather than have a 'private' discussion, I'll put my 2c worth in the "tips & techniques" section, we might get some helpful comment & ideas...
    Cheers,
    IW

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