Thread: Challenge 20 - 21. Ironwood.

That looks amazing and if it feels good in your hand. That's the most important.

Can you share a picture of you lever cap? How is it connected to the cross pin?

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Originally Posted by Cklett

That looks amazing and if it feels good in your hand. That's the most important.

Can you share a picture of you lever cap? How is it connected to the cross pin?

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Thanks CK.
This is the rough timber version. The slot needs to be a bit better than this for the real one, I used the bandsaw with the 1 1/4" blade to cut it. Because of the angle, it tends to want to slip up off the crosspin.
I will be a lot more careful with the brass version.
DSC_1671.jpg

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I got to spend a while in the shed making a new handle, this time a bit of Khaya was used.
I think the new design is a vast improvement over MKI. Still a few refinements to be done for the Cooktown Ironwood handle that will be put in eventually.
The step at the top of the blade ramp needs to come up a bit, I think 5 or 10mm, and I think I will bring the curve at the bottom rear of the handle, right in to meet the top of the sole.
DSC_1663.jpg

The handle is now a 3 finger job. I made it the same size as the hole of the Disston no.12 handle.
I did think about making the hole the same shape as the no.12, but thought it might look a bit dicky on a handplane

DSC_1668.jpg

The handle feels good in the hand, so apart from the little tweaks I mentioned, I think this will be pretty much it for the shape.
DSC_1656.jpg

Love it,
Brad that’s looking awesome,
I flicked through the pics first, an was wondering what you would do at the rear base of the handle,
But then you explained your intentions.

How wide is the handle, is it similar thickness to a saw handle?.

And I will be keeping a very keen eye on that Lever Cap,[emoji6].

Especially has your in front of my built, and I’m yet to work my lever cap out(MK 3 I think)

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Thanks CK.
This is the rough timber version. The slot needs to be a bit better than this for the real one, I used the bandsaw with the 1 1/4" blade to cut it. Because of the angle, it tends to want to slip up off the crosspin.
I will be a lot more careful with the brass version.
DSC_1671.jpg

Yeah, I think for that type of lever cap the slot is more hook shaped when looking from the side like in your picture. So that there is more like a shelf where the pin rests in. Not sure if my description makes sense.

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Originally Posted by Cklett

Yeah, I think for that type of lever cap the slot is more hook shaped when looking from the side like in your picture. So that there is more like a shelf where the pin rests in. Not sure if my description makes sense.

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CK,
That is my understanding as well, from what I can gather from Pics.
Brad, brings up a good point, I hadn’t considered they leave a cap creeping up on the pin,under pressure from the thumbscrew.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

How wide is the handle, is it similar thickness to a saw handle?.


Cheers Matt.

I went with 25mm thick for the handle. I measured some saw handles and few plane handles, they were around the 22-24mm mark. 25 feels good in my hand.

Originally Posted by Cklett

Yeah, I think for that type of lever cap the slot is more hook shaped when looking from the side like in your picture. So that there is more like a shelf where the pin rests in. Not sure if my description makes sense.

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Yes, that is the case. The slot needs to follow the curve on the top of the levercap more, with maybe a little hook towards the back where the pin will sit. This will make it sit in place a lot more securely when the screw is tightened against the blade.
I cut the slot in the timber one a bit too quickly with the big bandsaw blade, no chance of any curves.

Looks good Brad, a definitive improvement over MK1. Are you planning to whittle the lever cap from solid brass?

Yep, I have a piece of 3/4” plate that I will cut it from, then drill , hacksaw, file , sand it into shape.

Brad

You have don the hard yards on the handle thickness. Nearly all commercial hand saws (of yesteryear) were 24mm thick in the full size versions. I don't have any planes with saw style handles to compare and I wasn't sure that slightly thicker might be appropriate for a plane handle, but it sounds like 25mm might be the go. I am looking forward to seeing the handle in Ironwood. Yours seems to have very interesting grain.

Regards
Paul

I was a bit unsure what to go with Paul, especially when CK said he was using 31mm on his scrub plane, in the end I went slightly thicker than the old tools I have, and the Veritas BUJ was 24mm I think. After rounding the handle to shape and trying it for fit, I am happy to say I won’t be changing it.
I think when making tools for yourself, make it to suit your own hand. A bit different for the big manufacturers where they had to try for a one size fits all approach.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I was a bit unsure what to go with Paul, especially when CK said he was using 31mm on his scrub plane, in the end I went slightly thicker than the old tools I have, and the Veritas BUJ was 24mm I think. After rounding the handle to shape and trying it for fit, I am happy to say I won’t be changing it.
I think when making tools for yourself, make it to suit your own hand. A bit different for the big manufacturers where they had to try for a one size fits all approach.

And I think that's exactly the point. You making a tool which you will want to use for many days. So make it the way it will work best for you.

Looking forward to the next progress.

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Originally Posted by Ironwood

Yep, I have a piece of 3/4” plate that I will cut it from, then drill , hacksaw, file , sand it into shape.

I've got brass envy. My order still hasn't arrived.

Originally Posted by Picko

I've got brass envy. My order still hasn't arrived.

Hopefully not much longer.
Mine arrived about 12 years ago just getting to use it now.