Thread: Challenge 20 - 21. Ironwood.

Originally Posted by Ironwood

I got one side pretty much done. Just need a bit more fine tuning the fit by getting the internal corners a bit shaper, even though I ground some files down to do the job, I still have a small radius in the corners, preventing a perfect fit.
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Brad,
I reckon you won’t have a problem bringing that together,
From we’re I’m sitting the joints look very good,

Have you cut the pins had an angel or not.
Is it just the pics not showing them.
See you also pre drilled ?

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Brad,
I reckon you won’t have a problem bringing that together,
From we’re I’m sitting the joints look very good,

Have you cut the pins had an angel or not.
Is it just the pics not showing them.
See you also pre drilled ?

Cheers Matt.

Matt, the dovetails are cut on the sole at 6:1. The brass sides have the straight pins, but they do have angled sides to suit the dovetails. The brass side slides into the base from the top, unlike yours which the sides slide onto the base from the side. I did it this way to make it easier to fit the parts together because the sides are curved.
Yeah Mate, pre-drilled. I work better under pressure

Looks fantastic to me.

Matt, on the last pictures it looks like there are angles to me.

So, maybe I was over thinking the issue with transferring the pins to the sole.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Ironwood

Matt, the dovetails are cut on the sole at 6:1. The brass sides have the straight pins, but they do have angled sides to suit the dovetails. The brass side slides into the base from the top, unlike yours which the sides slide onto the base from the side. I did it this way to make it easier to fit the parts together because the sides are curved.
Yeah Mate, pre-drilled. I work better under pressure

Makes perfect sense now,

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Cklett

Looks fantastic to me.

Matt, on the last pictures it looks like there are angles to me.

So, maybe I was over thinking the issue with transferring the pins to the sole.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Cheers CK.
I just measured and marked where the ends of the sides would be sitting on the sole, clamped the side in place as best I could, and scribed around the ends of the tails. I didn’t worry about trying to use my dovetail square because with the curved sides there was nothing accurate enough to really reference it against, so I just went with the scribe marks I made. It worked out OK.
I did leave a bit too much between my cuts and the lines, left me plenty of filing to do. But I was a bit cautious being my first go and all. Plus, I want to minimise any gaps because I suspect my choice of metals won’t be the best for peening, so less gaps equals less stress.

All coming together nicely Brad.

I think you've done a phenomenal job Brad - your first dovetailed plane and curved sides and it looks like a pretty neat fit from where I'm sitting - well done!

Dropping parallel 'pins' on the side into tails on the sole is how the continuous side box mitre planes were done, so you have good precedent for the method. Before you start hammering, you will need to put a bit of slope on the sides of the 'tails' on the sole. If you are using the harder brass, make it a very small or your brass might start to crack up before you get them filled. If that's mild steel you are using for the sole, you'll have no problem at all peening the sides tight from the looks of what you are showing there.

Now get yourself off to the gym & tune up those biceps & forearm muscles ready for lotsa peening....

Thanks Ian, I just hope I can keep it on track. In hindsight, it might have been a smarter move to choose a design that was a bit less ambitious, but hey it’s the plane I would like to have in my rack, so what the heck, I’ll give it a go.

The sole is some hard stainless plate that I have cut from one of the offcuts I salvaged years ago, the plate was used to line the insides of some ore wagons, it was selected for its wear resistant properties. I could never find out what grade it was, the only info I could get out of anyone was “it’s industrial stainless steel “
One thing that is obvious, is it does get rust scale on the outside faces if left to the elements for long enough. The scale has buffed off, but it has left a few pits here and there.
I tested a piece that I cut off the curved side of the sole plate, it was about 5 or 6mm by 6mm and long enough to hang onto while I beat it with a hammer, it took a lot of beating, but it flattened out nicely without cracking, so I am happy that it should be OK for the dovetails. Flattening the sole might be a different matter though
I still haven’t tested the brass, but will before I do any filing that will create voids that it will have to fill.

Hi Brad. My hacksaw (an Eclipse version of yours) did exactly the same thing, just as I was needing it for my plane. I couldn't think of a fix like yours so ended up buying a new one, a Bahco. What a difference, so much better. At least some things do get better with modern technology.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Brad. My hacksaw (an Eclipse version of yours) did exactly the same thing, just as I was needing it for my plane. I couldn't think of a fix like yours so ended up buying a new one, a Bahco. What a difference, so much better. At least some things do get better with modern technology.

Is there some irony hear, with tool makers blaming there tools.[emoji6][emoji6]

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Is there some irony hear, with tool makers blaming there tools.[emoji6][emoji6]

Cheers Matt.

Well we gotta blame something

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Hi Brad. My hacksaw (an Eclipse version of yours) did exactly the same thing, just as I was needing it for my plane. I couldn't think of a fix like yours so ended up buying a new one, a Bahco. What a difference, so much better. At least some things do get better with modern technology.

I have another hacksaw at work, it seems a cheaper knockoff of the Sandvik, it was a POS, the hollow square bar/spine, was too flexible and you couldn’t put enough tension on the blade. I cut a piece of Ironwood to neatly fit inside and hammered it in. Made it a lot better.

I didn’t get much done on the plane today, but while I was looking at how the sides are fitting, I realised I made a mistake when designing the sides.
I made the widest part of the sole at the mouth where the blade will go through, and tapered the width from there, forwards and backwards. I should have kept the same width for 30mm or so behind the mouth as well, because the blade is going to be touching the sides at the top of the ramp where it exits out the top. At this stage, I am thinking I might have to grind some width off my blade to make it fit, just not sure how much until I get both sides on and locked in place.

Brad have you put the mouth in the soul yet?.

Maybe if you made a wooden blade template to check what’s going to interfere we’re?.

If the mouth hasn’t been filled in yet, can you make a small mouth side to side ?

Cheers Matt.