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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Brad have you put the mouth in the soul yet?.

    Maybe if you made a wooden blade template to check what’s going to interfere we’re?.

    If the mouth hasn’t been filled in yet, can you make a small mouth side to side ?

    Cheers Matt.
    I haven’t cut the mouth in yet Matt.
    I will get the dovetails in the sole filed and get an idea of where I am at with gap once I get both the sides sitting in place. Hopefully it won’t be too bad.
    ​Brad.

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  3. #122
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    Been there, done that Brad, it's an all-too-easy trap to fall into. The simplest solution is as you've suggested, just cut long angled shoulders on the blade, like a typical Veritas blade. You probably won't need to take off much, just make sure you have enough lateral adjustment. I'd do what Matt suggests and when the rear stuffing is in place, make a wooden mock-up blade that you can trim & test until you are happy it's going to work.

    Just a minor glitch, certainly not a show stopper...

    Cheers,
    IW

  4. #123
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    Yes, I think I can probably leave the bottom 30-40mm of blade at 50.8mm, and grind a slow taper towards the top. I should have about 52.5-53mm width at the mouth, and since I cut a little too deep on the front dovetail on the side I haven’t fitted yet, and I was a bit conservative on cutting to the line on the rest, I might be able to swing the tail of the left side plate out by 0.5mm or so, I can probably minimise it a bit.
    I just don’t want to go changing the geometry too much, seeing as I have predrilled my holes.
    So it will be a bit of “suck it and see” tomorrow.
    ​Brad.

  5. #124
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    I got the 2nd side 90% fitted today, just a couple of highspots preventing the side from sliding right in. I didnt get a chance to test the blade fitment, that will have to wait until next week now, as I have to shelve the project until I finish fulfilling some of my other obligations.

    I did single out a couple of offcuts, and gave them some whacks with a hammer on the end of the vice. Pretty happy with how they went.
    Both pieces peened out to more than double their original width before I stopped hitting, neither piece started to crack or flake, and I could have taken them further, but was more than happy to stop there.
    The stainless piece did seem to start to work harden at the end, but it peened pretty nicely I thought, I am pretty sure things will be fine.
    The vice and hammer were dirty, so the peening looks a bit grubby. Will have to clean things up before I start the big show next week.
    DSC_1513.jpg
    ​Brad.

  6. #125
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    Lookin' good, Brad. It looks like you've got plenty of flow in both metals, and your D/Ts look like a close fit in the pic, so I don't think you'll have any trouble closing things up very snugly when the time comes.

    I find the peening works best for me if I start working the metal over from a couple of mm away from the actual gap, making sure the metal is filling the gap from the bottom up. If youI bang the top over too hard too quickly, the gaps will close & look ok, but you'll find voids when you file off the waste. Experience is a big help here, if you've got just the right amount of 'spare' metal, the peening happens very easily, too much and it's hard to be sure you've filled the gaps under the surface, too little & you struggle to get any bigger gaps filled. But of course you don't know what is just right for you until you've done a few

    A couple of tips for anyone who ends up with a really big gap they think won't fill: I saw somewhere (can't remember where it was), where someone ended up with a rather nasty gap, so he cut a small sliver of matching metal & hammered it into the gap. The subsequent peening squashed it all together & completed filling he gap, & after cleaning up, it looked perfect.

    And I once over-cut one side of a socket on a sole, leaving a square 'hole' at the edge of the socket about 1mm square after filing to the lines. I started peening, & when the joints had closed solidly enough, I hammered a fine nail into the "hole", and continued peening. After cleaning up, I couldn't see where the over-cut was at all - it had completely disappeared.

    But don't worry, I think you'll find it all goes pretty well. As I said, my first attempt didn't look as neat as yours, but I managed to get it together with just a few pin holes, and I was very happy with how solid it felt. It has stood the test of time and remains solid after 10 years plus, despite at least one accidental hard knock....


    Cheers,
    IW

  7. #126
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    Cheers Ian. I was a bit surprised that both metals peened so well, especially the brass, I was expecting the worse from it, but spread easily with a bit of persuasion, not nearly as much persuasion as the stainless took.

    I am hoping that my cut through the line will not be evident, it may be visible on the top, but that will be hidden by the front infill.
    I think my biggest issue is going to be the width for the blade to sit. But as I haven’t cut the mouth yet, I don’t think it’s going to matter too much anyway, the worst case will mean a millimeter will have to ground off the width of the blade, 50mm instead of 50.8 doesn’t matter to me. Gives me a good reason to take the grind marks off the sides of the blade anyway.
    I checked back through the old group buy threads, these blades I have are D2, not D4 as I stated earlier.
    ​Brad.

  8. #127
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    OK, time to get this show back on the road.
    I have been without internet for the last couple of days, I was blaming the satellite nbn mob, but it turns out the apple wifi modem doover I was using instead of the one they supplied, has some internal problems that I cant fix.
    So now that I have unplugged the white box, and plugged in the black box, and entered all the relevant passwords etc, I am back in business

    I spent most of yesterday going back and forwards in my buggy, from my house to a nearby hill where I can get mobile reception to talk to the internet provider helpline. They were doing roadwords a few K's up the road from my place and dug up the phoneline, so my landline has been out too. The joys of living in the bush

    Just before dark yesterday, I spent a bit of time fettling the dovetails and crosspin. I am happy with the fit, so now I can move on to marking and cutting the mouth, and making and fitting the chatterblock.

    Here are a few progress pics.
    DSC_1535.jpg

    DSC_1534.jpg

    You can see the scribed line on the sole directly in front of the crosspin, That is at 90 degrees to the centerline of the plane and where the mouth will be cut in.
    My crosspin is perfectly parallel with this line, so that is a relief.
    DSC_1530.jpg

    DSC_1533.jpg
    ​Brad.

  9. #128
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    I got the peening block shaped up out of a piece of Cadagi from a tree I had to cut down when I put a new septic trench in a couple of years ago.
    Just have to cut a slot to fit over the cross-pin, and a notch for the chatter-block once I get that in place.
    DSC_1536.jpg

    DSC_1537.jpg
    ​Brad.

  10. #129
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    Looking good Brad. I'm very impressed with you blokes doing the dovetails, I struggle with them in wood. And then you put a curve in to increase the degree of difficulty.

  11. #130
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    Brad,
    Looking real good , an I love the way you have done the cross pin(because I wish I had done that).

    I get the love hate relationship with modern technology [emoji6].

    Cheers Matt.

  12. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picko View Post
    Looking good Brad. I'm very impressed with you blokes doing the dovetails, I struggle with them in wood. And then you put a curve in to increase the degree of difficulty.
    Thanks Picko. I will give most things a go at least once , there is a line though
    ​Brad.

  13. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Brad,
    Looking real good , an I love the way you have done the cross pin(because I wish I had done that).

    I get the love hate relationship with modern technology [emoji6].

    Cheers Matt.
    Thanks Matt. I am hoping the crosspin helps to keep the sides squared while I am peening.

    I cut a piece of timber at 60 degrees for a blade ramp, and made a wooden lever cap to check where the blade slot had to be cut through, it has to go about 5mm back from the line I scribed when I was marking out the sole. I will double check it all again before I start any cutting, I don’t want any muckups here.
    I am trying to figure out the best way to cut the mouth with the tools I have. I don’t have a jewellers saw like Ian recommends, so will have to drill and file until I can get a hacksaw blade in there. A milling machine would be handy right now
    I wonder how an endmill would go in the drillpress. Probably not real good. Maybe I could put an endmill in the Chuck on the metal lathe and mount the sole onto the cross-slide
    Maybe a hacksaw and file might be safer
    ​Brad.

  14. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    I wonder how an endmill would go in the drillpress. Probably not real good. Maybe I could put an endmill in the Chuck on the metal lathe and mount the sole onto the cross-slide
    Maybe a hacksaw and file might be safer
    Brad

    A drill press is not really set up to withstand side forces so anything not in the vertical plane has to be treated very carefully.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  15. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironwood View Post
    Thanks Matt. I am hoping the crosspin helps to keep the sides squared while I am peening.

    I cut a piece of timber at 60 degrees for a blade ramp, and made a wooden lever cap to check where the blade slot had to be cut through, it has to go about 5mm back from the line I scribed when I was marking out the sole. I will double check it all again before I start any cutting, I don’t want any muckups here.
    I am trying to figure out the best way to cut the mouth with the tools I have. I don’t have a jewellers saw like Ian recommends, so will have to drill and file until I can get a hacksaw blade in there. A milling machine would be handy right now
    I wonder how an endmill would go in the drillpress. Probably not real good. Maybe I could put an endmill in the Chuck on the metal lathe and mount the sole onto the cross-slide
    Maybe a hacksaw and file might be safer
    Brad my mouth was just cut by drilling a serious of holes, I then used a tiny cold chisel to knock out some of the waste, then just a hacksaw blade and files.

    Yes it’s a pain , but it’s doable [emoji3064]
    It does take a while to do as well!!

    Cheers Matt.

  16. #135
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    Yeah, I think I was trying to take the easy way out. Will mark out the mouth tomorrow, and start drilling, cutting, and filing. Enough of this procrastination I say
    ​Brad.

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