Thread: challenge 2020 - 2021. banjopicks

I would love take a vacation there but I think ebony might get confiscated at the border.

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I'm going to start my fourth tote. The first didn't fit the mortise so I made a second. I broke that one trying to remove it with some light taps of a hammer. I had to chisel it out. The third one fits well and I could continue with it but I realized it would be much easier to shape if I left the top and bottom parallel for holding in the vise. I'm also thinking of gluing up a thicker block to cover the mortise edges just in case.

I also think I need to acquire a better rasp. My micro rasps are shot and the 4 way aint what it used to be. I'm working a lot harder than I should be and I plan on making more and saw handles as well so it's time to upgrade my rasps.

Originally Posted by banjopicks

I'm going to start my fourth tote. The first didn't fit the mortise so I made a second. I broke that one trying to remove it with some light taps of a hammer. I had to chisel it out. The third one fits well and I could continue with it but I realized it would be much easier to shape if I left the top and bottom parallel for holding in the vise. I'm also thinking of gluing up a thicker block to cover the mortise edges just in case.

I also think I need to acquire a better rasp. My micro rasps are shot and the 4 way aint what it used to be. I'm working a lot harder than I should be and I plan on making more and saw handles as well so it's time to upgrade my rasps.

A fourth Tote is not a bad thing, I would just say you keep refining the original Tote.
It’s like the old bloke with his favourite hammer, he’s replaced the handle 4 times and the head three times but it’s still his original favourite hammer,

Cheers Matt.

The original will be used on another plane. Instead of a 4th tote, I decided to glue the scraps back on the 3rd one. Just a quick gel CA glue up. I think that will accomplish my goal for holding in the vise a little better. This is not a lot different from making guitar and mandolin necks. I have quite a bit of experience with that so I'm sure the end result will be fine and this one is just a test bench plane. Once I get the process down, I'll purchase or find some nicer wood to make the keeper.

I suck at this. I can build beautiful F5 mandolins but I can't seem to get a hand plane right. I was planning to buy some O1 steel 3/16" x 3" and make my own blade 2 1/4", so I started the mortise with that in mind. Then I looked at the prices of O1 stock and changed my mind. Now I'll have to add a base to close the mouth and split it down the middle to use the 2" iron and breaker I have. I really don't want to spend any money on this, at least not much.

Originally Posted by banjopicks

I suck at this. I can build beautiful F5 mandolins but I can't seem to get a hand plane right. I was planning to buy some O1 steel 3/16" x 3" and make my own blade 2 1/4", so I started the mortise with that in mind. Then I looked at the prices of O1 stock and changed my mind. Now I'll have to add a base to close the mouth and split it down the middle to use the 2" iron and breaker I have. I really don't want to spend any money on this, at least not much.

Hate to say it but, as Ian(one of the Judges has said)
Get your iron then build your plane around that.
Keep going you will get there , and don’t forget to show us pics.

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by banjopicks

I suck at this. I can build beautiful F5 mandolins but I can't seem to get a hand plane right. I was planning to buy some O1 steel 3/16" x 3" and make my own blade 2 1/4", so I started the mortise with that in mind. Then I looked at the prices of O1 stock and changed my mind. Now I'll have to add a base to close the mouth and split it down the middle to use the 2" iron and breaker I have. I really don't want to spend any money on this, at least not much.

Keep your eye out for some "scrap" steel that has sufficient carbon content to make a plane iron (leaf springs, old brake discs, saw blades, etc.). Or try any local flea markets/yard sales for second hand plane blades of the right size. Or ask us fellow forumites (there should be sufficient time to account for shipping time). There is no rush at this point, so you have the time to search for a solution that you might prefer over using what you have.

Anyway, as Yoda would say, "there is no suck - either do or do not". Some challenges have extra steps, that's all .

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Hate to say it but, as Ian(one of the Judges has said)
Get your iron then build your plane around that.
Keep going you will get there , and don’t forget to show us pics.

Cheers Matt.

I'm on the prowl Matt.

Originally Posted by Sheets

Keep your eye out for some "scrap" steel that has sufficient carbon content to make a plane iron (leaf springs, old brake discs, saw blades, etc.). Or try any local flea markets/yard sales for second hand plane blades of the right size. Or ask us fellow forumites (there should be sufficient time to account for shipping time). There is no rush at this point, so you have the time to search for a solution that you might prefer over using what you have.

Anyway, as Yoda would say, "there is no suck - either do or do not". Some challenges have extra steps, that's all .

Stupid Yoda

What's the downside of using cheaper 1084 steel?

Originally Posted by banjopicks

What's the downside of using cheaper 1084 steel?

In principle the carbon steels are a balance between hardness, edge retention and sharpenabilility. If a blade comes for next to nothing we can probably live with sharpening it a little more frequently. One of the best steels around, for the moment, for plane blades and chisels is PMV-11, but this comes at a price. A lot depends on the type of timber on which we are using our plane. Doug has chart of the type of steels that are found in scrap yards and their typical composition. I have saved it somewhere, but can't find it for the moment. if he sees this post perhaps he could post it for you. I have found leaf spring steel to be very "acceptable" and it is what I am using for my planes, but, no, it is certainly not the best possible.

Found it!

Scapyard steel composition.jpg
The thing about leaf springs is they are a convenient shape and thickness for our purpose. many other objects would be suitable but would have to be forged into the correct shape.

Regards
Paul

Thanks for this. I'm curious, why isn't O1 on this list. I thought that was the one mostly used for tools.

Originally Posted by banjopicks

Thanks for this. I'm curious, why isn't O1 on this list. I thought that was the one mostly used for tools.

Good question and I don't really know other than most of that material in the chart is used on components rather than blade tooling and as such was probably selected for strength rather than edge retention.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Good question and I don't really know other than most of that material in the chart is used on components rather than blade tooling and as such was probably selected for strength rather than edge retention.

Regards
Paul

I think, where the chart does point out "tools" (chisels/knives/reamers, etc.), where O2 is listed, O1 would probably be just as likely?

Originally Posted by Sheets

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

Originally Posted by banjopicks

Thanks for this. I'm curious, why isn't O1 on this list. I thought that was the one mostly used for tools.

Good question and I don't really know other than most of that material in the chart is used on components rather than blade tooling and as such was probably selected for strength rather than edge retention.

I think, where the chart does point out "tools" (chisels/knives/reamers, etc.), where O2 is listed, O1 would probably be just as likely?

Possibly because it is a very old chart for one thing. Use the chart with a grain of salt. Many things are now made with newer alloys than the ones indicated on the chart. While in all probability the new alloys will have similar properties to the steels indicated on the chart, since they are being used for the same thing, the heat treatment and tempering requirements may well be quite different. Sometimes new alloys are developed and used because they are better than the previous alternative but often it is because they are cheaper, in material or production costs.

Another reason is because it is stuff that is commonly found in the junk. I think you would find that not a high percentage of tools found in the junkyard are made from the good stuff. If you found a set of spanners in a dumpster, for example, there is a much higher probability that they are K-mart specials than Sidchromes.