Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Doug3030

I’m going to posit that it is a jig designed to hold knife blades for shaping and sharpening and that you are going to adapt it for your plane blade.

Do I win $5?

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I’m going to posit that it is a jig designed to hold knife blades for shaping and sharpening and that you are going to adapt it for your plane blade.

Do I win $5?

So close and yet so far - no cigar, no $5.

Is it a jig to grind a defined bevel on a piece of steel, e.g. plane blade, on a linisher or alike?

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Originally Posted by Cklett

Is it a jig to grind a defined bevel on a piece of steel, e.g. plane blade, on a linisher or alike?

That's pretty close. It is designed to achieve exactly that using two specific items in my shed to precision grind chisels and plane blades.

I will post some photos and further descriptions a bit later. It works with my Radiusmaster and Veritas mk II sharpening system.

Well done Cklett with an honorable mention to Chief Tiff.

Here's what a Radiusmaster looks like:

20210205_141633.jpg

And this is the Veritas Sharpening System MK II:
20210205_142323.jpg

And this is how it looks when you put the jig pictured above on the Radiusmaster in place of the toolrest, with the brass roller removed from the Veritas jig and the stainless steel pin on my jig placed through the holes where the roller used to be. The Veritas jig is not modified in any permanent way. Once it is removed from the radiusmaster and the roller replaced it is good to go as the manufacturer intended and nobody would know the difference.
20210205_143319.jpg

When working all this out, one of the things to work out was how to set up the jig to keep the angle ground on the radiusmaster, with the pin in place of the roller, the same as when the Veritas tool is being used conventionally. Veritas built in cam adjustment to the roller for primary, secondary and tertiary bevels. Since my jig is for grinding all I am interested in is "matching" the primary bevel angle.

When I say "matching" I mean "almost matching" as I found it is best to grind the bevel at an angle about half a bee's d!ck lower than the primary bevel the Veritas makes when used conventionally. This ensures that when you are finished grinding and move onto the sharpening stones with the roller back in place that you are polishing the bevel starting from the cutting edge, not the heel, but only just. If you try to match it exactly then if you are out by the wrong direction you have a bigger job ahead. Whereas if you are under by a bit it doesn't matter. You just have to polish the start of the bevel and catch up the rest on subsequent polishings.

For those who want the full details of the measurements, I found that the height of the axle in the veritas tool with the roller set fro primary bevel was 5.2mm. That means that when I set the jig on the radiusmaster before attaching the Veritas tool I set the distance of the stainless steel rod from the grinding belt using a spacer. The mechanism to attach the toolrest to the Radiusmaster allows for positioning the toolrest at different distances from the belt. I duplicated this on my jig. I set the spacing by using a piece of 5mm flat ground steel between the grinding belt and the pin and fine-tune with feeler gauges.

You need to adjust the position of the jig to allow for different grits of belts as coarser belts are thicker than finer ones. This is not a real inconvenience because pre-heat treat I grind with 60 grit belts and post heat treat I grind with much finer belts. Changing the belts and readjusting the spacing takes about a minute.

More to follow later. It's getting a bit long.

That’s damned ingenious! I had spotted the Veritas roller in your original photo but didn’t think to connect the two together.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

That’s damned ingenious! I had spotted the Veritas roller in your original photo but didn’t think to connect the two together.

There were a few clues I placed in the first photo in among all the bench clutter. The tongue that you use to set the angles is there too.

Well spotted.

Originally Posted by doug3030

More to follow later. It's getting a bit long.

This pic shows the jig in use. I made the jig wide enough to be able to take the widest blade the Veritas tool will hold and allow it to be traversed across the belt rather than stay in the one place. The sparks are travelling upwards because I run the belt "backwards" when using this jig because it minimises the risk of the blade digging in and tearing the belt. It also seems to give better control over the pressure applied to the blade, tending to lift it off the belt rather than pulling it in against the pivot point.
20210205_143352.jpg

Here, the blade is ground ready for heat treating. You can see that the edge is left a bit thick at this stage to avoid problems in the forge that occur if the blade is already sharpened to a thin edge. After heat treating it will go back on the grinder and the edge will be sharpened with a finer belt or belts before finer polishing on waterstones.
20210205_144307.jpg

The flat side of the blade shows some signs of getting a bit warm during the grinding. This is not a problem because at this stage the blade is in an annealed state.That means that it is softer so the grinding is quicker and there is no possibility of drawing the temper because it has not been hardened yet. When I fire up the forge this blade will be heated to 800 degrees C and held at that temperature for a few minutes before quenching. Any heating from grinding at this stage of production is therefore irrelevant.
20210205_144420.jpg

I included this last (bad) photo to show a little safety feature I built in to the system. At the top of the photo you can see the curved black shape of the Veritas tool. You can see that the bottom of the tool rests against the central metal plate of my homemade jig. That ensures that the back end of the Veritas tool will not fall into contact with the grinding belt. As long as there is a blade clamped into the Veritas tool and the jig is correctly spaced from the belt the only way that any part of the setup other than the tip of the blade can come in contact with the belt is if the belt breaks.
20210205_145225.jpg

The skinny blade in the jig in the last photo is for the second plane of the pair I am making.

In your cluttered workbench picture I saw the grooving plane but didn’t make the required connection....

So you’re making a double-ended match plane; a wooden version of the Stanley 148?

$5...$5...$5

Edit: Belay my last; you’re making a pair of match planes! That’ll teach me to read the post properly.... Still; $5 is $5

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

In your cluttered workbench picture I saw the grooving plane but didn’t make the required connection....

So you’re making a double-ended match plane; a wooden version of the Stanley 148?

$5...$5...$5

Edit: Belay my last; you’re making a pair of match planes! That’ll teach me to read the post properly.... Still; $5 is $5

Looks like all my secrets have been discovered now.

A future project is "The Annarchists Toolchest". These planes, being made specifically for use on 7/8" stock, will assist with this build.

Chief, do you want to risk the $5 that you won and try for the holiday? The question is: What timber will I be using for the plane bodies?

Two blades in the forge for heat treating. Mine this time.

20210206_172442.jpg

Heat treating went well. Blades are in the tempering oven for their first tempering cycle.

After 8pm I can go out and start the second tempering cycle and by then the forge and quenching oil should be cool enough to put away. Final grinding and honing tomorrow and then that's the blades done and on to the plane bodies.

Originally Posted by doug3030

Chief, do you want to risk the $5 that you won and try for the holiday? The question is: What timber will I be using for the plane bodies?

As I’m still waiting for Matt’s man in Delhi to cover Paul’s commitments I reckon it’s worth a punt (providing that the holiday is nowhere near Melbourne, obviously).

Traditionally the bodies would have been made from quarter sawn beech, however that timber isn’t overly common down under. I’m going to hazard a guess at Tassie Oak/Victorian Ash

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

As I’m still waiting for Matt’s man in Delhi to cover Paul’s commitments I reckon it’s worth a punt (providing that the holiday is nowhere near Melbourne, obviously).

Traditionally the bodies would have been made from quarter sawn beech, however that timber isn’t overly common down under. I’m going to hazard a guess at Tassie Oak/Victorian Ash

Chief

That's not a bad guess at all and probably right on the money with the Beech, but should you be careful what you wish for?

Where is the holiday? One person for one night in New York? Runner up prize, two nights for one person in New York (flights not included)

Regards
Paul

PS: Masks not supplied.

Doug,
Please explain the reference too two blades two planes I keep reading about, are you up to something?.
Have you got your own plane of world domination happening[emoji6].

Cheers Matt.