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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    I can't draw a straight line let alone a curve! I think the last year that I did art at high school I got 2 out of 100 for my final Art exam. That was probably only because the teacher couldn't bring herself to give a score of zero.

    Cheers, Bob



    There on the house Bob,

    See the difference in the mouth opening,hence why a plan is gooooood.

    Cheers Matt.

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  3. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post



    There on the house Bob,

    See the difference in the mouth opening,hence why a plan is gooooood.

    Cheers Matt.
    I'm with you Matt - pity the bloody computer doesn't understand what I want it to do. Every time I drawn the mouth at the correct size and then save it, the stupid computer joins the two points of the front and rear sole and eliminates the mouth
    Maybe I should just accept that I need to learn how to use the software the way it works and not how I want it to work

    Cheers, Bob

  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    I'm with you Matt - pity the bloody computer doesn't understand what I want it to do. Every time I drawn the mouth at the correct size and then save it, the stupid computer joins the two points of the front and rear sole and eliminates the mouth
    Maybe I should just accept that I need to learn how to use the software the way it works and not how I want it to work

    Cheers, Bob
    Hey Bob, in F360 there are so many ways to get to the same point often it's hard to say "do this"

    For the mouth i would do the following

    Push/pull the plain sole to it's final thickness.
    View the bottom of the sole
    select plane on sole and create new sketch. draw the mouth in the desired location using a dimensioned rectangle and locating it with a dimensioned line from either front or back as a locator so you can move it later
    save sketch and then do a cut operation on the sole.
    after the cut you can bevel the top edges to match the bevel angles needed in the mouth.

    hope that helps

    Cheers
    Phil

  5. #49
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    Thanks Phil and Matt,
    I understand what you are saying Phil, but I just wanted a simple 2D sketch to get the cut lines in the body and the position of the hole for the wedge pin. These will be used to cut the pine billet to check that everything fits together correctly before I start on the final build using more appropriate material.

    I think I got it this time using LibreCAD.
    Plane 3.jpg

    I am planning on using Red Gum for the front Knob , Tote and wedge and the Fijian Mahogany for the laminated body. Anyone see a problem there?

  6. #50
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    I am starting to make some progress. Blade iron cut,and squared up, and primary bevel ground. Still a little more to be done on leveling the back of the iron and polishing to get it ready for hardening. Photos will follow when blade is ready for hardening.


    Need a couple of days to attend to 'domestic duties' and will then get started on the wood work.

    Cheers
    Bob

  7. #51
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    Some photos as promised of progress with the plane iron
    Bevel-Front-face2.jpgPrimaryBevel.jpgiron-flat.jpgIron-back.jpgStriking-end.jpg

    Cheers
    Bob

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    Some photos as promised of progress with the plane iron
    Bevel-Front-face2.jpgPrimaryBevel.jpgiron-flat.jpgIron-back.jpgStriking-end.jpg

    Cheers
    Bob
    Bob,
    Not sure if I’m seeing this right,
    But that looks like the edge is rounded over a bit,

    Might be easier to get that flat while it’s still soft.
    If it’s rounded.




    Cheers Matt.

  9. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Might be easier to get that flat while it’s still soft.
    If it’s rounded.
    If it is rounded it might be worth spending some time on it with a surface plate and some wet and dry.

    Don't overdo it though as there is almost certainly going to be a bit of warping in the heat treat, even if it is minor.

    It does pay to get it close while it is still annealed as it is easier, but every blade needs a little touch-up after heat treating, even yours did, Matt.

  10. #54
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    I don't think it is rounded, but I will check again.I think it is only light reflecting off that edge as I had to do a bit more work on that side to get it flat. I have a 1/2" Float glass flat surface which I used with 320 grit Wet & Dry to polish out the worst of the marks left by the linisher. I might see if I can get a finer belt for the linisher, I think the one I am using is about 150 grit - didn't bother to check as it is the only belt I have until the shops open again.

    Thank you both for drawing my attention to it.
    Cheers
    Bob

  11. #55
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    Default Changes to free version of Fusion 360

    The following is from an email I received from Autodesk on Friday:

    Hi Bob,
    Important changes are coming to your Fusion 360 for personal use software that you need to know about.

    Effective October 1, 2020, functionality in Fusion 360 for personal use will be limited, and you’ll no longer have access to the following:


    Probing, 3 + 2-axis milling (tool orientation), multi-axis milling, rapid moves, automatic tool changes
    Multi-sheets, smart templates, output options for drawings (print only).
    Download options from public share links
    Cloud rendering
    Export options including DWG, IGES, SAT, STEP, and DXF (Note: DXF can still be saved via sketch)
    Simulation and generative design
    Unlimited active and editable Fusion 360 documents (10 doc limit).
    Fusion 360 extensions – Generative Design and Manufacturing Extensions


    These changes are being made to allow us to scale, align intended usage with the various offerings, support advanced capabilities for Fusion 360 subscribers, and stay true to our guiding principles of democratizing design for everyone.

    Fusion 360 for personal use is still free for those of you working on home-based, non-commercial design, manufacturing, and fabrication projects.

    For more information about these changes, please refer here and the FAQ.


    If you are considering moving to a CAD program you might want to consider what effect these changes will have on what you are intend to do with the CAD program.

    Cheers
    Bob

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    The following is from an email I received from Autodesk on Friday:

    Hi Bob,
    Important changes are coming to your Fusion 360 for personal use software that you need to know about.

    Effective October 1, 2020, functionality in Fusion 360 for personal use will be limited, and you’ll no longer have access to the following:

    Looks like a typical marketing ploy.

    The honeymoon is over, now you get to pay the big bucks for what they got you hooked on.

    A bit like Jools's new embroidery machine:
    Reduced to $3000 from $5000. A week after you get it you get an email offering you a discount to buy the software to make it do what you thought you were buying in the first place. Cough up another $1200.

  13. #57
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Looks like a typical marketing ploy.

    The honeymoon is over, now you get to pay the big bucks for what they got you hooked on.

    A bit like Jools's new embroidery machine:
    Reduced to $3000 from $5000. A week after you get it you get an email offering you a discount to buy the software to make it do what you thought you were buying in the first place. Cough up another $1200.

    Ouch!!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #58
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    I'm a F360 user and immediately panicked a bit... in reading through the announcement is seems like it will have little impact on what i use it for except the 10 active documents/designs. it makes sense and will just force me into cramming a lot more components into a single active document so unless they limit component counts maybe no real impact.
    I should tidy up the document list i have and par it down to the essentials before the end of the month. This day was coming as soon as the split the Educational and personal licensing.

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    I don't think it is rounded, but I will check again.I think it is only light reflecting off that edge as I had to do a bit more work on that side to get it flat. I have a 1/2" Float glass flat surface which I used with 320 grit Wet & Dry to polish out the worst of the marks left by the linisher. I might see if I can get a finer belt for the linisher, I think the one I am using is about 150 grit - didn't bother to check as it is the only belt I have until the shops open again.

    Thank you both for drawing my attention to it.
    Cheers
    Bob
    OK I went out to the shed this morning and re-checked the flatness of the iron back.Now there MAY have been a slight gap - at the most a poofteenth of a bee's nick, so I went back to the float glass flat surface and spent about 5 minutes working on the blade with 320 grit wet & dry.

    Here is the result
    Iron-back2.jpg. Note the torch behind the blade and no light showing between the blade and the square.(unless my eyesight has deteriorated)

    Now I would call that definitely withing the accepted tolerance of 1 poofteenth of anything.

    Cheers
    Bob

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldgreybeard View Post
    OK I went out to the shed this morning and re-checked the flatness of the iron back.Now there MAY have been a slight gap - at the most a poofteenth of a bee's nick, so I went back to the float glass flat surface and spent about 5 minutes working on the blade with 320 grit wet & dry.

    Here is the result
    Iron-back2.jpg. Note the torch behind the blade and no light showing between the blade and the square.(unless my eyesight has deteriorated)

    Now I would call that definitely withing the accepted tolerance of 1 poofteenth of anything.

    Cheers
    Bob
    Bob,
    I would say that’s good enough, to be heat treated.
    Once you have the blade hardened up,you will want to go back to flatting the back on some sharping stones, or wet and dry on some glass, anyway.

    Cheers Matt

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