Picko,
Will the lever cap screw bear down on the body,
It looks like it’s pushing on the blade,
No hang on it’s pushing on the blade,of course, my fault.
Cheers Matt.
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Not much progress on the planning from me, the weather here has been too good. I have been thinking about it though and of course keep changing my mind on things.
I originally had thought that I would have cast iron infills for the sole (I've got an old stormwater grate that I can get that from) and the upper section was to be mostly open, with just some steel spacers as below.
Attachment 482169
But in the name of looks and usability, I'm starting to lean towards timber infills as below.
Attachment 482172
So when the weather turns nasty in the next couple of days I might draw some timber in and see what it looks like. I've got a 3D model started, so I'll see if I can get it plotted in on the model.
Stay tuned.
My first shoulder plane was remarkably similar to what you've drawn, Picko. In my case I used brass core pieces and sweated the sides to the core pieces. The front is infilled, and the wooden wedge pivots on screws through each side. To apply pressure, a long screw though the wedge fits a brass nut insert on the underside of the wedge & bears on the blade as with your design. Attachment 482290
If I'd used a fixed toe like on your drawing, I would have to remove the screws & take out the wedge/lever cap to remove the blade every time it needs sharpening, so I added a moveable toe piece which can be slid forward, allowing the blade to be taken out via the mouth.
I guess I wanted to include an adjustable toe anyway, but a simpler solution would have been to have a 'loose' wedge engaging a cross-pin or bridge, still using the thumbscrew for tightening it.
My more 'evolved' design has a fixed brass bridge, which is drilled & tapped for a thumbscrew. The thumbscrew bears down on the middle of the wedge, which is slightly 'sprung' so that there is good pressure on the blade near the cutting edge. Attachment 482293
A small brass insert epoxied into the top of the wedge takes the force of the thumbscrew so it doesn't chew up the wood (& helps to locate the wedge in the right spot). This system allows a fixed mouth & the wedge/lever is easily removed & the blade withdrawn through the wedge tunnel.
An advantage of the wooden wedge/lever cap is it gives you something to hang onto when using the plane against a high shoulder.
Cheers,
I'm still in the thinking about it. No Idea what I am building yet.:?
C'mon Pagie. Weren't you the 1st one to sign up? :U
But now I'm getting sad as I don't have any skills in metal working. May have to make one from clay.
You can join me Pagie and make a wooden plane - only steel allowed for the blade. First I've get to get my neck and shoulder problems under control again - filing and similar actions are a pain:((
Have a look at what Mountain Ash's latest photo Challenge 2020 -2021 MountainAsh
Cheers,
Bob
I just got some wood delivered yesterday for my plane.Attachment 482331
The forecast was right and I've been indoors today, so I have my design complete - I think.
Attachment 482334
Attachment 482333
Attachment 482332
Just have to produce some dimensioned drawings and I'm ready to go when I get home next week. Oh hang on, I haven't sourced any brass yet! I'll get onto that now.
Picko
The drawings are looking good.
Regards
Paul
[QUOTE=Bushmiller;2211862]Whoa! It's gonna be big....One log for the body and the other for the wedge. Where does the blade go?
Don't need no blade, just use as a roller to flatten wood. Just got to cut it all up and and split it and stack it.
Regards Peter